Just purchased an older M-10, having an issue with the screws on the side plate. What would you reccomend to loosen the screws. Don't want to use heat! Thanks for any advice.

I feel your pain. I just went through a long period of trying to get a sideplate off an older revolver. Three screws could be removed, but the fourth was rusted shut.

I took the cylinder and stocks off, then let the gun rest right side down in a tupperware dish with a half inch of Kroil in the bottom. I tested it every few days for about a month, then figured I was going to have to drill the screw out. Since there was no longer any point in trying to save the screw head, I put some heavy torque on it expecting either to fail or tear the head off. Instead, it budged and I got it out. Afterwards I could see that the point of adhesion was at the head, not on the threads down below.

So basically. soak and pray. Be patient.

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David Wilson

why no heat..........just don't use blue flame heat, a hi watt hair dryer or heat gun if you have one, and just let it soak like David said

I was successful once using penetrating oil. It took a long time as I recollect. Penetrating oil and lots of prayer is my suggestion.

If you have access to a drill press, you can securely fixture the gun, sideplate up, and apply downward pressure while you rotate the correct bit in the chuck. I'd still soak it in Kroil or CorrosionX first.

Buck

While I have not actually tried this procedure, some folks swear that sticking the gun in the freezer for a while works. When I have had this issue with other guns, motorcycles and cars, I have used WD40 or penetrating oil. Most of the time it does work, but I have resorted to drilling out a screw or two over the years. Good luck!


Chief38

Repeating what others have said and adding a couple more.

Here's my stuck screw routine:

Support opposite side of frame firmly, place well fitting screwdriver blade in screw. Tap screwdriver sharply with hammer (Shoo-Hammer of course )
(Tapping the screwdriver is the first thing I do whenever I run into a stuck screw. It works pretty well most of the time. Just be sure the blade fits the slot)

Apply hot air to frame, not screw, to expand threads before screw starts expanding

Long soak in penetrating oil, heat frame and tap screw again.

If all else fails, use a left-handed bit to drill it out. That way the bit is trying to loosen the screw instead of tightening it.

I'm not a gunsmith, but I've removed hundreds, if not thousands, of stuck screws.
Hope this helps.

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Age + Treachery = JohnnieB

An alternative method:

pick up a can of canned air at your favorite retailer, shake and hold it upside down while spraying the stuck fastener and surrounding area with the freezing liquid after applying a good penetrating oil and letting it sit overnight.

Sometimes the contraction of cold will work better than the expansion of heat. You can also vary the heat gun/freeze method, but be careful of doing this with pot metal.

Good luck!

have to give the freezing method a try.

Kroil, a proper screwdriver, and patience . . .

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Wisdom comes thru fear . . .

Often enough before I get heavy handed with threaded fittings or
fasteners trying to tighten them will break them free.
Just a thought...

I agree with the kroil soak, a good fitting screw driver, a good rap on the screw driver handle. Get a second set of hands. Set gun up so it is real solid, Have helper, hold gun and press on screw driver, if you have to put a small vise grip on screw driver shaft to you have lots of control and torque. Also agree with warming it up. As long as the grips are off heat wont effect anything except maybe a plastic sight inset till its way to hot to handle. Hardened steel doesn't even start to do anything till above 350f and springs and the like are tempered at about 800f. Sear surfaces might be affected above 400f.

It's possible you have run into a gun that someone used Loctite on the screws. If so, heat will break the bond. No torch needed, just heat up the screw with a soldering iron. That keeps the heat local and concentrated on the screw to help heat the Loctite, and will in no way damage the gun. Although Kroil is a miracle worker, it won't do much against Loctite.

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

Guys.....he has had that poor gun soaking for almost 6 years! if it is not loose yet, there are bigger problems afoot!

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On the Oak Savannah

Ha ha - good catch!!! Got me!

On the other hand, maybe jhkunkel needs help and that's why he revived the thread?

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So many S&W's, so few funds!!

Try a product called Free-All. Spray it on and wait a hour or so. You will never use Kroil or anything else again. Best stuff of rusted bolts from saltwater.

KROIL for sure. Every gun owner should keep an 8 oz. can on hand.

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John