The weight on my Mod 52 fell off during a shoot. The outer weight has one Allen screw which is stuck The Allen wrench is starting to turn inside the screw head. What is the best way to remove this screw?
thanks

There is a product that looks like a drill bit that has reverse cutting edges. it isn't an easy out, but similar. I think Sears has them. I know that the small set screws area too small for an easy out to work well. You also could take it to a local machine shop and see what they suggest. Good luck.

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Endeavor to persevere. <><

First, make sure that you have a brand new FRESH tip on that hex key, take it to a bench grinder and grind it back to freshen the tip.

Second, heat can be your friend. If you have a micro torch handy it can be a great aid. If you don't have a micro torch I would suggest that you consider purchasing one. Radio Shack used to sell a nice little refillable butane micro torch but it's been years since I got mine so I don't know if they still carry them.

Usually, the above two steps are enough to get a stubborn hex socket set screw free but it worst cases the only option can be to drill them out and re-tap the hole. It's why I won't touch one of the smaller sizes without making sure I have a fresh tip on the hex key before starting.

BTW, a pet peeve of mine is calling these "Allen" screws or wrenches, Allen is simply one of many manufacturers of Hex Keys. Technically they are Hex Socket screws and the tools are Hex Keys. I also hate dealing with any that uses a hex key of 1/8 inch or less because they are so easy to strip out.

Search for the thread "couple of problems" started by me. I got some good responses

As scooter123 mentioned, try applying a little heat to the metal where the end of the screw would be. There might be thread-locker on the threads and some of those products are intended to be heated when being removed.

Those are 2 great suggestions by the scooter. I would suggest that you flood the screw with ''Kroil''--an oil that creeps (carried by Brownells) and let it soak. Then use your freshened up hex key, before you resort to the micro torch. Go slow, and good luck......
y

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

Your "Pet Peeve" is a little mis-placed. It has nothing to do with current manufacturer, Allen is the correct name based on original designer. "Phillips" and "Reed and Prince" screwdrivers fall in the same category, or do you object to those appellations too?

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Gunsmithing since 1961

Don't get me started on Reed & Prince, have you recently tried to find an R&P screwdriver? Use a Philips head screwdriver on an R&P screw and the end result is usually a buggered up screw.

As for a designer named Allen coming up with the hex socket screw, that is a tidbit I was not aware of, so I should probably reconsider that particular peeve.

Try applying a generous amount of Kano Laboratories "Kroil penetrating oil", on the screw and the surrounding areas. Let it sit for 24 hours. Kroil is on page 302 of Brownells cat # 63.
John Murphy

I always called them Herbie wrenches when I was growing up. I liked my buddy Herbie, but the Allen I knew was a butt-head. A person can call them anything they want and have a lot of fun doing it! My friends always thought I was half-nuts; they were half right!

Whelenshooter

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SWCA 2379

If you get to the point where heat, a new hex wrench & penetrating oil won't get it, and before you get to the 'drill it out & re-tap' stage, you can try one last trick.

Something like an easy-out, but just a drill bit with a reverse cutting edge on it.
Take a drill bit, the shorter the fluted area the better, that will not quite fit into the now damaged and rounded out wrench hole in the screw.
On a grinder, or even by hand on a small bit like this, stone or grind the cutting edges to cut in the reverse direction.
Give it enough relief to the edge so it will really bite in when turned. You can blunt the end a touch also to allow it to sink deeper into the wrench hole. It's the cutting flutes grabbing the sides of the holes that will turn it out of the part.

With the drill bit in the hand drill or press, put it in place on the screw give it some downward pressure and to see if it'll grab the screw in those new cutting edges. Usually it will and you can turn the screw out.
Set screws can be hard,,but a good quality drill bit is harder an will bite into it.

No need to run the drill in reverse usually on small screws, just hand pressure downward and then reverse turn the screw out by hand.

Small drill bits will break off generally if you use the 'power' switch to turn it out and the broken bit still in the chuck can scribble a nice pattern accross the part if you're using a hand held drill doing this.

A drill press is the best way, but I've done it with as little as a bit-brace I have fitted with a drill chuck.

Probably doesn't apply in this situation, but:
I had luck the other day on an "allen bolt" where the head was exposed by carefully cutting a notch in the head with a little piece of hacksaw blade. Once I got the notch I put a flat screwdriver into it and undid it. Hardest part was getting the notch started.

In my case the head was exposed and I didn't care about scratching the surface under it plus I knew there was no loctite or similar involved.

I think this is the reason they invented "torx" head screws.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244