I was told that using a Stainless Steel chamber brush to get the lead out of the cylinder would harm the chambers. Just needing o know if this is true or just a bunch of bull.

Thanks

I much prefer using the Brownells "Tornado" spiral wound brushes to clean revolver cylinders, instad of using the conventional bristle steel brushes, which are more likely to scratch.
Used the tornado brushes for decades with zero problems, and they take the lead/carbon right out of the chamber.

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Science plus Art

+1 on the Tornado (really good for shotguns by the way) and there's always the old standby Lewis Lead Remover.

The Lewis uses bronze screens and a tight fitting (adjustable) rubber jag to scrub the lead out. Comes with a really nice pistol cleaning rod too.

I've used a stainless bore brush but find it's not worth the care and worry since they are abrasive.

/c

i've used the stainless in the chambers only...no problems

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SWCA#2208
KK4EMO

I have used SS brushes on the chambers of my .357s when shooting .38 ammo but have decided to use them only when I find a buildup in the chambers. Easy enough to check, after cleaning insert a magnum cartridge and see if it drops in easily. If it doesn't drop in and drop out smoothly out comes the SS. In the meantime I stick with bronze or nylon brushes. And because it pulls hard I don't "push and pull" the brush, I run the empty rod through the chamber, insert the brush on the rod, and pull it back through.

Using a stainless chamber brush (if it actually is an oversized "chamber brush") shouldn't do any damage unless you chuck it into a drill and run it hard and frequently. You're probably going to get the lead out easier with zero chance of damage by using the Lewis tool or some copper Chore Boy wrapped around and old brush. Try to use something softer than the steel that the gun is made from. I have a "tool" made from a 1/4 in. dia. copper wire that I hammered into a chisel shape and reach in and "pop" the lead off and then hit it with a brush. You can also take a piece of brass or copper rod and peen the end until it mushrooms out and use it as a pick to pop the lead free. I have also seen guys take an empty case and flare the mouth out until it just enters the chamber and scrape it out. If you know somebody who reloads they can make some up for you.The problem with trying to "brush" it out with an oversized brush is that it leaves lot of very small scratches on the chamber walls that just makes residue stick to the walls more than if the walls were polished smooth.

I bought the bronze chamber brushes from Brownel's. They work pretty good cleaning out the cylinders in the magnum handgun after firing specials. Works better than the Lewis Lead remover. I save the Lewis for the bbl. It is a tad too skinny for the chambers in the cylinder.

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JIM
NRA Pistol Instr

I just threw away my stainless brushes. I never used them and
was a little afraid of them. Brass/bronze brushes work fine.
After the brush a swab of solvent then some scrubbing with JB
bore compound (then more solvent and a clean swab) leaves
the bore sharp and clean.
I use a 45 brass brush chucked in a drill to clean the cylinders
of my 44 revolvers. I put a patch over the brush with some solvent.
Only thing left is a little bluing at the head of the chamber.
I then degrease the chambers with brake solvent.

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Nemo

Check out "Kleen Bore" Twister brushes. I shoot lead in revolversand a little #9 on one of the does the trick for me.

I only use broze brushes on the innards or guns - stainless steel may scratch.

SS works great in Glock chambers and bores. Solvent noit required and zero impact on the "Tenifer" finish.

Regards,

Tam 3