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12-24-2011, 01:53 PM
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Should I leave it alone?
I have a model 17-3 that has had a trigger job (about 25 years ago) since then I have shot about 2-3 thousand rounds through it. The trigger is still smooth but I was wondering if I should take the side plate off and flush the grease out and if so what should I re-lube the internals with.
Thanks
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12-24-2011, 02:17 PM
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Troy,
If it's smooth, I would opt to leave it be. Unless the gun is showing signs of being gummed-up, you can give it a douche of CLP in all it's holes, let in run out, wipe it down and be GTG.
Mike
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12-24-2011, 04:15 PM
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I'm with PH-2. If you don't have a problem, don't fix it.
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12-24-2011, 05:14 PM
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Let me ask, instead of CLP wouldn't something like the Hornady One-Shot be better, a dry lubricant?
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12-24-2011, 05:16 PM
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The only time to fix a problem is when you have one. Aside form the obvious routine maintainence, I would leave your Model 17 alone in re: the trigger.
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12-24-2011, 05:23 PM
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Steve,
Troy stated that it's been 25 years since the trigger job, yet the lockwork is smooth. His concern is possible gumming of the works. I suggested CLP because it is a CleanerLubricantProtectant.
It will flow where it's needed, flush/clean, and leave a lubricating film. The dry lube will not exhibit all those characteristics, so, in my opinion, is not the indicated choice, in this situation.
Mike
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12-24-2011, 05:55 PM
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Thanks I will give the CLP a try " If it's not broke don't fix it" is a smart suggestion. Merry Christmas to all of you.
Thanks
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12-24-2011, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OFT II
I'm with PH-2. If you don't have a problem, don't fix it.
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+1 on this!
__________________
S&W Accumulator
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12-24-2011, 06:47 PM
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I'd be concerned that you hadn't fully disassembled and cleaned the gun for 25 years after shooting thousands of rounds through it.
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12-24-2011, 07:35 PM
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If I did take the side plate off and clean it out what would I use to grease or lube the internals?
Thanks
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12-24-2011, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trulyapostolic
I'd be concerned that you hadn't fully disassembled and cleaned the gun for 25 years after shooting thousands of rounds through it.
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Agreed 100%, just because an engine hasn't locked up yet doesn't mean you don't need to change the oil in it.
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12-25-2011, 01:23 AM
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If you are (and only if you are) experienced, and completely competent with the disassembly and re-assembly of the gun, then I would do it and would suggest cleaning and lubricating with either RIG #2 Oil (NOT the Universal Grease) or Remoil. These two products will not gum up, won't attract dust or dirt, and will dry and leave a rust preventative and lubricant behind. I have been using both for many years with excellent results and no regrets.
If you are not experienced with the procedure, you can cheat:
Use a spray can of the Remoil with the "straw" and spray to clean out the inside of the gun through the openings. The Remoil is quite thin and will quickly run out of the gun leaving behind more than enough to lubricate and prevent rust. Shake out as much as possible, and wipe down the gun again the next day for any remaining oil. Obviously this method will not be as thorough as the first, but there is no risk to the gun if you have not done this before and it will do an adequate job.
Chief38
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12-25-2011, 01:46 AM
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If it aint broke don't fix it
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12-25-2011, 02:33 PM
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Admittedly I'm no armorer and I seem to be in the minority, but after 25 yrs., perhaps being anal, I'm gonna take a look under the hood.
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12-26-2011, 07:07 PM
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Thanks Chief38 I have taken side plates off Smiths before so I am not to uncomfortable with taking it off and flushing the grease that is there out. I was not sure if grease or a light oil like remoil was the best thing to replace it with. When I pulled the side plate off the other day the grease that was there was very grey and I was not sure if it started out that way or burnt powder and what not had gotten in the lock works over the years.
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