Yoke end play model 17-3

T

Texan

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Could someone explain the repair that is needed to correct yoke end play model 17-3 ?

I have read several topics on this and am positive this is the problem I am having on my 17-3.

Is slight yoke slop something that really needs to be fixed, or can
I just live with it ? The gun locks up very tight and has NO cylinder
end shake.
The yoke slides forward just enough to barely let the cylinder touch the forcing cone. If repaired will the same problem reoccur with time ?

The only part I'm not really clear on is how or where to install stainless steel yoke bearing/bearings on the yoke barrel.

Any advice would sure be appreciated. Texan...........
 
If you shim the yoke barrel forward, won't it make things worse?

Have you tried a new retaining screw?, that is what holds the yoke in position till closed into the frame.

edit to add: you can also LIGHTLY peen the button on the end of the yoke barrel to set the yoke back from the screw.
 
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Does the yoke move fore and aft when it is open? There is a collar on the yoke which engages the inside of the frame and generally keeps it from moving when closed.

Is what you are seeing actually the cylinder moving longitudinally in the frame when closed? This is cylinder end-shake and is what can be so excessive as to allow the face of the barrel to contact the breech end of the barrel. These two conditions are completely different and are repaired in completely different ways. What is correctly referred to as the "yoke barrel" is the part that the cylinder rotates on, not the part that goes into the frame. Cylinder end-shake bearings are installed inside the center bore of the cylinder after removing the cylinder and yoke from the frame and the cylinder from the yoke. The extractor rod, extractor and extractor spring have to be removed to install the bearings.

You don't have to completely re-assemble the cylinder to check fit, simply install just the extractor in the cylinder, cylinder on the yoke, and then insert the yoke/cylinder into the frame and close the cylinder to check the end-shake. If the cylinder doesn't turn freely take .002 out of the shim/bearing stack. If there is still end-shake add another .002 bearing unless that causes binding. When correct the end-shake should be barely noticeable, and the cylinder turn completely freely with no indication of drag or binding.
 
I understood the OP had NO cylinder endshake (his words).

The repair I suggested is to stop dragging the front of the cylinder across the forcing cone when closing the cylinder.

Crane, yoke, axis, axle, barrel, I have heard all called by these names and more.

I was referring to the only part supporting the cylinder that is retained by a screw (which also goes through the sideplate).

If it is endshake, what ALK8944 mentioned is the repair.
 
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