As described in this thread: Gaah! Dropped my nickel pre-10 on the floor

I dropped my 1957 vintage pre-10 on a vinyl floor. It seems OK but I have noticed the problem described there of the bolt not returning all the way back after pushing the cylinder latch forward and letting go. I have to open and close the cylinder to reset it.

I don't know if this existed prior to the fall or not but am wondering what might be wrong. I don't see anything that seems abnormal.

Sounds like something is slightly bent or out of alignment due to the fall. You did say the checkering on the thumb latch was damaged, so the fall might have (more than likely) bent the bolt just enough to cause this problem.

If you are familiar with the dis-assembly and re-assembly procedure, open up the gun and see if in fact anything is bent, burred, or out of alignment. If the bolt is bent it is easy and inexpensive to replace. It is also a part that usually does not require fitting, so you should be able to drop it right in.

If you are not familiar and skilled at taking the gun apart and putting it back together, bring it to a reputable GS to do.

Chief38

The damaged checkering is actually on the grip on the same side as the latch.

I've taken apart many a S&W so that won't be a problem. I just haven't had the time since I took a road trip the next day.

I've been studying the ejector rod thinking it might be at that end.

This has become more of a concern. I had it out yesterday to shoot for the second time since I dropped it.

It gave no trouble last time but this time the bolt would stick forward while I was shooting so I couldn't cycle the action. I'd have to either pull the bolt back or open and shut the cylinder.

It didn't hang up every time I shot it but often enough I know something is clearly wrong.

I have it apart now and the bolt looks fine. Not bent I can tell with my naked eye.

I'm thinking maybe the yoke is tweaked. If I get the cylinder assembly in sans yoke then the bolt returns when pushed as normal. If I slip it on the yoke and close it then the problem of the bolt sticking forward when pushed forward returns.

It might also be a bent ejector rod. I've not taken the cylinder apart to check that.

I need to get my hands on a yoke alignment tool. I'd just buy one but I bought $50 worth of primers before heading to the range yesterday and I'm trying to limit my monthly gun expenditures.

Does the cylinder turn freely when closed? If it's binding or not spinning freely the ejector rod might be out of alignment slightly. You can also check this by laying the gun on it's side with the cylinder open and spin the cylinder while watching the end of the ejector rod. Ideally the rod should have no run out, or "wobble" at all.....should stay straight while rotating.