Advice on "Basic" Gun Cleaning Kit?

Llando88 · #1 11-13-2013, 11:44 PM

New shooter here, looking to purchase first firearm (M&P 9mm) shortly.

I'd like to assemble a "basic" cleaning kit before I buy it, so I can maintain it.

What set of tools, equipment and supplies do I need?

Assume I've never cleaned a pistol before, but I'm mechanically adept (Engineer), ok working with tools, and can field strip my pistol.

Thanks in advance.

Rich

Hapworth · #2 11-14-2013, 09:13 AM

As basic as it gets?

Bore rods; bronze bore brush; nylon brush; patches; CLP; microfiber towels.

Amazon.com: Hoppe's Gun Rifle Cleaning Aluminum Rod for All Caliber: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/412mDUbTjsL.@@AMEPARAM@@412mDUbTjsL

Amazon.com: Hoppe's Phosphor Bronze Brush for 9mm Pistol, Card E/F: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41B2wSvLGaL.@@AMEPARAM@@41B2wSvLGaL

Amazon.com: Kleen-Bore Nylon Bristle Utility Gun Brush #UT-221: Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31zvYLu1jvL.@@AMEPARAM@@31zvYLu1jvL

Amazon.com : Hoppe's Gun Cleaning Patch for .38 - .45 Caliber 500 Pack, Poly Bag : Gun Cleaning Kits : Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41oCzow%2BopL.@@AMEPARAM@@41oCzow%2BopL

Amazon.com: Break-Free CLP-4 Cleaner Lubricant Preservative Squeeze Bottle (4 -Fluid Ounce): Sports & Outdoors@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41yfSKDKDZL.@@AMEPARAM@@41yfSKDKDZL

Amazon.com: AmazonBasics Microfiber Cleaning Cloth, (Pack of 24): Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51iqBRp4aWL.@@AMEPARAM@@51iqBRp4aWL

hmbiohazard · #3 11-14-2013, 09:17 AM

they make cleaning kits already thrown together with everything you will need. pick up a 9mm handgun cleaning kit, or if you plan on buying multiple guns in multiple calibers much like i did, just get a full multi-caliber kit. i have one kit that cleans my .40, .223, .270, .300, .357 and .22

hangnoose · #4 11-14-2013, 09:31 AM

I'd avoid a BASIC kit. the few bucks you save isn't worth any potential harm. Preferably a coated or stainless one piece rod for me. Shooters choice solvent & clp lube are as good or better than most & proven safe. Some bronze & nylon brushes, q-tips, pipe cleaners, toothbrush, a bore light, dental picks from a hardware store are handy, but be careful not to scratch finishes, patches, shop rags/old tee shirts.

ditto1958 · #5 11-14-2013, 12:23 PM

I bought a kit when I got my first firearm, but I almost never use it. Here's what I use:

1. Ballistol
2. Hoppe's Bore Snake
3. Qtips
4. Rubbing alcohol
5. The nylon brush that comes with Glocks
6. Cleaning patches

You can see that everyone seems to have their own way of cleaning and ends up settling on their own set of tools and supplies. There is no right or wrong way, so long as you don't use something that damages your firearms.

I think if I were you, I would get a good quality kit, along with some Hoppe's #9 solvent and oil. You can't go wrong with Hoppe's, and then you can experiment over time with other products to see what you like.

jepp2 · #6 11-14-2013, 07:30 PM

Like the others have mentioned, kits are a waste of money in my opinion. I have some kits I bought early on, and don't use any of the items that were included. Why?

Rod was not the quality I prefer
Patches are not cotton
Bore solvents aren't what I prefer
Not included items: toothbrush, bronze brush, brass cleaning tool, etc.
Lube included not what I use
Grease included not what I use

You might look at some kits and make a list of what is included. Then decide what items you would actually use. They search and buy the items that are of the quality you want. If you don't know, product reviews are often helpful. The M&P is a very easy to clean pistol that requires very little in the way of equipment to properly maintain.

wewaslim · #7 11-14-2013, 08:18 PM

RemOil, BoreSnake in the right caliber, Flitz, an old towel and Q-tips. You're set.

Nevada Ed · #8 11-14-2013, 08:24 PM

I like to have a cleaning rod that fits in my pistol's soft or hard case along with a bore brush, patches and tooth brush when I go to the range or out shooting, along with an old allen wrench that I filed a screw driver tip on for the rear sight adjustment.

At Home, a small towel, Hoppe's solvent, Cotton patches (best) brass and nylon bore brushes, small cotton rag (old sock) Kroil or stock gun oil........for every day cleaning.

Copper & lead remover and gun grease are needed but tons of them out there and depends if you have them in your stores.

I have never had a gun go bad with just Hoppe's in the cleaning kit.

Llando88 · #9 11-15-2013, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Collects

Make sure Eezox and Renaissance Wax are in your kit.

Why do you recommend these two products?

gdnagle · #10 11-15-2013, 10:54 AM

Basic kit... Otis Cleaning System comes with everything to get you started in one self contained bag so you can take it with you. You can add other caliber or get the complete set for multi caliber for when you add more firearms to your collection. Bore snake then solvent of your choice.

I have the cheapo multi section rods that don't last, one piece Tipon Deluxe rods which are great but for long guns long to carry, boresnake easy to use also the Otis which is my favorite as they are self contained and I can clean my .22 up to my 12ga with all in one kit.

Last time I bought them I got them off fleabay most less then $20 - $30 complete. I haven't been there in a long while so don't know what their prices are now, also got a damaged box one from amazon cheap. Buy good once you won't be sorry.

Remember clean direction of projectile travel is recommended

chief38 · #11 11-16-2013, 06:50 PM

I've posted this a few times here on the Forum, but once again you will be FAR BETTER OFF assembling your own custom kit rather than to but one of the cheap store bought kits.

My suggestions would be to get the following basic items:

Stainless Steel Dewey cleaning rods in the appropriate lengths and diameters along with their brass loops & jags.

BROWNELL'S BRAND of the following:
Bronze brushes
100% cotton patches
Bronze & Nylon "toothbrushes"
Screwdriver set with the Lawman Handle
Lewis Lead Remover in the correct calibers

Good quality tweezers
Solvents, Oils, Greases of your choice - I personally would recommend RIG#2 Oil and RIG Grease
Pipe cleaners
A rubber "Bar" mat to clean on (used at a Bar or Restaurant)
A borel light
A small tool box to keep everything in

That's your basic cleaning kit & will serve for 98% of your needs.

usnrigger · #12 11-17-2013, 04:57 PM

Here is just a little things ive found that work well for me, you may not or others may not like them. Ive used other stuff and this is what ive found to work.

-Bore Cleaner M-Pro 7 Bore Gel(Same as Hoppes Elite Bore Gel). I works great as well as its the best thing for plastic fouled shotgun barrels(yes it removes plastic).
-If the M-Pro 7 doesn't get the fouling out I will make sure any chemicals are dried out so im no mixing chems and then go the Sweets.(I only use sweets if its really bad).
-Basic gun oil is Hoppes Gun Oil
-Grease in DuraPlate
-Penetrating Oil is Kroil
-I use standard stainless steel brushes and hoppes stainless tornado burshes for shotguns.
-Coated Rods (Normally Dewey)
-I use water based degreasers in my parts washer, and water based Mineral spirits work great for small setups.

I like using things that I can be around and use a lot without the over worry of having a reaction to it or building up a allergic reaction later in life. For the most part these things work just as well as the crazy chemical stuff.

Engineer1911 · #13 11-17-2013, 05:04 PM

Bore snake in 9 MM and your oldest clean T-shirt.

chief38 · #14 11-17-2013, 09:00 PM

USNRIGGER:

I would personally stay away from stainless steel brushes and stick to the Bronze type to avoid scratching or scoring a barrel. Just saying............

usnrigger · #15 11-20-2013, 10:51 PM

I use stainless as they hold up better over a lot of uses, and I use mine a lot. They also clear build up in the barrel easier. I used brass/bronze brushes way back for many years and after trying SS it one of those thing, 2 runs with a stainless or 4/5 with brass. If is a nice bench or target rifle/pistol throwing on a brass of SS, but it works for me and what I do. Nothing wrong with brass either its just not what I like.

USNRigger

chief38 · #16 11-21-2013, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by usnrigger

I use stainless as they hold up better over a lot of uses, and I use mine a lot. They also clear build up in the barrel easier. I used brass/bronze brushes way back for many years and after trying SS it one of those thing, 2 runs with a stainless or 4/5 with brass. If is a nice bench or target rifle/pistol throwing on a brass of SS, but it works for me and what I do. Nothing wrong with brass either its just not what I like.

USNRigger

I agree that Stainless Steel brushes remove lead and gunk faster than Bronze and I also agree that they hold up better & last longer than the Bronze. I also have a few that I got from my Dad but only used one once. After noticing that it imparted fine scratches I stopped using it and have not used it since.

For leaded up revolvers I use The Lewis Lead Remover with the Bronze "patches". The LLR works like a charm every time, quickly and easily with zero damage to the gun.

I would just be real carful with anything made of SS for use on a gun and can highly recommend the LLR if you don't already own one. Brownell's sells them and the patches last a long time!

Regards,
Chief38

rwsutley · #17 12-01-2013, 11:05 PM

Does anyone have any thoughts and or experience with the product Ballistol ? The fat liar of a salesman at a local gun store said the stuff is magic, just spay it on and in your simi auto and there is no need of further cleaning. I do not mind cleaning my guns as it is an excuse to fondle them, but if this stuff is that good perhaps a small can has a place in my possibles bag.

Also I have a couple of quarts of linseed oil. Years ago when .22 LR was $.55 per 50 round box I head the old timers talking of oiling their stocks with boiled linseed oil. Is this a good idea or will it darken the wood beyond all recognition ?
It sure is wonderful to be able to learn from those who have experience. Thank you.

MichiganScott · #18 12-02-2013, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chief38

I've posted this a few times here on the Forum, but once again you will be FAR BETTER OFF assembling your own custom kit rather than to but one of the cheap store bought kits.

My suggestions would be to get the following basic items:

Stainless Steel Dewey cleaning rods in the appropriate lengths and diameters along with their brass loops & jags.

BROWNELL'S BRAND of the following:
Bronze brushes
100% cotton patches
Bronze & Nylon "toothbrushes"
Screwdriver set with the Lawman Handle
Lewis Lead Remover in the correct calibers

Good quality tweezers
Solvents, Oils, Greases of your choice - I personally would recommend RIG#2 Oil and RIG Grease
Pipe cleaners
A rubber "Bar" mat to clean on (used at a Bar or Restaurant)
A borel light
A small tool box to keep everything in

That's your basic cleaning kit & will serve for 98% of your needs.

Virtually identical to what I use, except I like the Tipton carbon fiber rods.

You will eventually end up with a bunch of specialized tools, solvents, and lubes. If you shoot rifles, you will need a vise and bore guides. It makes the process much easier.

SgtLumpy · #19 12-02-2013, 01:33 PM

A dozen white washcloths from Wally's is a cheap way to have gun rags that will last eleventy-seven years.

Only chemical I've ever used on any gun is BreakFree CLP. No solvents, Hoppe's etc. The same bottle I used in 1970 is still in use today.

Simple brass or aluminum rod to fit your caliber, not too long. 6" is probably long enough for any auto loader.

Pkg of bronze bore brushes in your caliber. As they get old and deformed, toss them into your recycle container.

Bronze loop end patch holder.

Big pkg of good quality cotton patches appropriate for your caliber.

Old and discarded plastic toothbrush.

Fight the urge to get the latest and greatest lubricant. Oil is oil. Gun's aren't under particularly high stress like an engine. It cycles a couple hundred times per range visit. Compared to your car engine that cycles a few thousand times per minute for several hours every day.

Bullets deform deliberately once inside a barrel. They clean the inside diam of the barrel as they travel through it. Esp if you use plated or jacketed bullets, your bore will stay clean. Unless you drop your pistol in the sand, normal lint and bug poo will just shoot out with the next bullet.

A thin layer of oil on the internal parts (and/or external parts) will tend to attract and hold dirt/carbon/gunk. It will also allow that stuff to be more easily removed and then replaced with another thin layer. By "thin" I'm suggesting a microscopic layer that you can't feel. Not a wet gun.

In an auto loader, I think the only place you "need" lube is the slide to frame rails. Maybe the trigger and hammer pivots. But really, no other places need to be lubricated much, if at all, to function. We all probably over lubricate our guns, any kind of gun.

Sgt Lumpy

Llando88 · #20 12-04-2013, 07:38 PM

Well, here is what I am using, nothing fancy.

- Outers brass pistol rod, came with 9mm jag and patch holder, $12.70

- 225 Pack Allen Co. 2"x2" patches, $6.85

- Hoppe's Bore snake in 9mm, $15.74

- FrogLube CLP, forgot what I paid but it's the 4 oz

- Set of plastic tools I got at a Gun Show in Abilene Tx last month, it was like $3. I use the one little plastic tool to depress the internal lever before sliding the frame off, I prefer not to press the trigger. The toothbrush thing is useful for the slide.

- Uh, free items: Q Tips and a Dixie Cup I stole from the bathroom (don't rat me out, she's listening

), an old kitchen towel donated by Mrs. (Got permission on that one, phew), and a couple spare MF towels from the garage.

So maybe $40-$45, all in. The rod is ok, all brass,and seems decently made. I like the patches, they fit well in the rod plastic holder. The jag and patch holder are cheap resin plastic, dunno how long they will last, but they work.

The bore snake is awesome, couple runs through was easy.

I feel like I have a good handle on my tools, and putting the package together with the help of you guys was invaluable. My kit is not fancy, but I think it will do what I need.

Thanks again to ya'll for the help and advice, it is much appreciated.

Rich