Hey everyone,

After the first range trip with my 642, I tried cleaning it with Breakfree CLP. I was unable to remove the buildup on the business end of the cylinder, and also at the base of the barrel.

After talking with SW Customer Service, it sounded like Hoppes Elite would be ok for the 642's finish so I gave it a shot also.

I've tried to clean these areas several times with the above cleaners and a stiff nylon brush. It has definitely improved, but is still black. I'm reluctant to use a brass brush due to the finish.

If anyone has advice how how to better remove this buildup, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks

I use a scotch brite nylon scrub pad cut into a 2"x 2" square and somes Hoppes #9. Go right at it. It's SS and will be fine. Use little circular motions and you have to stay after it. Mine comes shiny clean when I do my 642 or any of my SS revolvers. In fact some people have used the finner grade of these pads on dremmels to give the SS an almost Nickel shine. There are threads on here with examples especially in the Semi Auto section.

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John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor

A lead removal cloth, your solvent of choice and elbow grease. The forcing cone/frame area is more difficult to get 100% clean, and of course the next time you shoot those areas get dirty again...your call as to cleaning it every session.

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Alan
SWCA LM 2023, SWHF 220

I agree with the scotch brite pad. Just take your time and it'll be all shiny and pretty again.

+1 on the occasional shining of the cylinder face and FC. It's a job and 5 rounds later it's right back where you started.

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John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor

I can tell you a little secret that I don't tell many people, I have used this on both blued guns and stainless guns not on any airweights so I don't know how the chemical will react with what your gun is made out of so you are totally on your own with this..... It's called RV antifreeze, as a cleaner, it can work wonders....

You are over-cleaning your gun!

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Centennial Every Day

All my revolvers have "the black" near the forcing cone and on the front of the cylinder. I remove the easy stuff, but - to me - it's not worth the effort to get it bright and shiny in all corners.

There is no need to get your gun "factory spotless." But if it is something you want to do because you find it satisfying, then by all means.

When Im done with my screwdriver I wipe it off - some oil sometimes?? Same with my guns clean out the barrel and cylinders and let it be. Over cleaning kills many guns. JMHO

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T. Johnson

For the cylinder, try a little CLP and a pink pearl eraser.

I agree, our guns have the scorch rings. I don't bother with trying to remove them. I did however, clean them off my wife's gun once just to see if I could.
If cleaning them on your gun makes you happy, go for it.

As several people have intimated, the black remaining after a cleaning with solvent and brush is NOT a buildup, simply a harmless "stain" or carburized microscopic layer in the metal. If you remove it, it re-forms the next time you shoot it. If you simply clean it and leave it, it is self-limiting and stays the same.

Steel parts can take a lot of scrubbing without significant harm, but many a titanium cylinder has been ruined by owners who wanted their gun to look NIB every time they cleaned it.

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Science plus Art

If you intend to shoot his gun often I would just do a normal cleaning and accept the rings around the front of the cylinder charge holes "as normal". You'll want to clean off any serious lead and carbon build-up, but to remove all traces of them each and every time you shoot truly makes little sense. The marks will be back on the first cylinder full. Removing them too often will eventually cause more harm than good.

The only guns I bother removing the rings from is on the few that I drool over often and shoot very little (collectibles). Those get cleaned impeccably but they are not shot often so they are not getting over-cleaned.

Just my .02 cents..........

Chief38

What doesn't come off with the pink eraser stays. For me, using a Dremel, ScotchBrite, or any other abrasive makes about as much sense as power buffing the truck after every trip off road and will do just about as much damage in the long run.

The level of cleaning your are discussing is completely unnecessary. It would be equivalent to cleaning the engine block after every road trip. The light buildup of powder residue, etc is perfectly normal in a used revolver.

i hardly bother with any more than a wipe down of the externals. solvent and a bore brush on the insides, followed with a product called eezox for final cleaning and oiling. i like the smokey look on my guns, shows i'm not afraid to shoot 'em!

+1 on wiping/brushing away the "buildup" and leaving the "stains" where they are. If you shoot frequently, like weekly you will soon tire of spending all that time and effort.

Certain things happen everytime you use a gun, Always! Making sure your gun is "functionally" clean and obsessing over minutia just isn't worth it to me.

I am not advocating gross neglect of a gun, just to be clear but like someone said in an earlier post, too much obsessive cleaning may have a cumulative negative effect on a gun.

It's your gun and your choice. You've gotten a few different methods to clean the stains so it's decision time for you....

This is what you need from Brownells.

Attached Images

p_509350040_1.jpg (24.1 KB, 76 views)

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Stang1911

I use a lead away patch fromKleen Bore,a bronze gun brush or a s.s. gun brush for the last 40+ years. I clean about 60 rev. and pistols a week and that is all i use.

Don't bother.

Thank you all for the feedback. It is helpful to know that this is really a 'stain' as opposed to buildup. So I will run over it with some CLP and a nylon brush to remove the buildup and leave the stain alone.

Thats all you really need to do.
CLP, Hoppes, etc., any decent cleaner will keep your gun functioning without all the time and effort associated with trying to keep pristine.

The only time I take the time to really get the ring around the cylinder face like new is when I go to sell it.

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John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor

A lead away cloth will clean the cylinder face with ease. Just wipe it and its clean.

But what you have to remember is the 642/442 are alloy guns with a clear coat type of finish on them. The will not take the abuse of cleaners like Hoppes #9 for very long. The finish does not hold up like a blued or stainless gun.

Any abrasive cloth or pad is going to etch through eventually.

Stick with the CLP, Ballistol etc. Clean the barrel normal and leave the black on the cylinder. I have seen many a 642 with a destroyed finish. If you would not do it to the clear coat of a $60,000 car don't do it to the gun.

The 642 has a SS cylinder so it can take regular cleaning, the problem is the solvent gets on the frame finish.

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Still Running Against the Wind

You are absolutely right. When I wrote my post I was thinking SS not Aluminum alloy. 640 vs 642. What he said above...don't go after it with a scrub pad.
Just leave the ring... It won't hurt a thing

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John 1:17
NRA Life Benefactor

Mother's Mag Wheel Polish & a lead removal cloth.

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Old Cop
LEO (Ret.)

Overkill. Either/or, one will do the same by itself. Flitz is less aggressive that Mothers.

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Still Running Against the Wind