Brother-in-law gave me this gun. It had a dirt dauber nest inside barrel which caused pitting. Gun has all solid parts, 70% bluing, some pitting on receiver. Just trying to make a shooter with new barrel. It's a shame since it's a 1961 model, serial 203315.
Tip on removing Ruger Mark I barrel
- Thread starter etexas
- Start date
Ruger Standard Model Semi Auto pistol bbls are threaded into the receivers,,and extremely tight.
With proper bbl vise and recv'r wrench, you can get them to unwind though.
If you are scraping the present bbl, lathe turn or even hacksaw a ring around the bbl as close to the frame/receiver as possible w/o actually touching the frame.
That releases the pressure of the draw up on the threads when it was installed and will come off very easily.
The replacement will still need a bbl vise and wrench for installation though to do it correctly.
The original could be relined w/o removing it. Makes it alot easier.
With proper bbl vise and recv'r wrench, you can get them to unwind though.
If you are scraping the present bbl, lathe turn or even hacksaw a ring around the bbl as close to the frame/receiver as possible w/o actually touching the frame.
That releases the pressure of the draw up on the threads when it was installed and will come off very easily.
The replacement will still need a bbl vise and wrench for installation though to do it correctly.
The original could be relined w/o removing it. Makes it alot easier.
Bat Guano
Well-known member
If you are indeed looking for a new barrel--better find out if they are to be found at all. To the best of my knowledge Ruger never sold them as a separate part.
Depending on how bad the pitting is, the gun may shoot decently if it is not too bad. Relining is also a possibility.
Years ago I picked up a pretty ugly Ruger semiauto .22. It turned into a very good shooting pistol Many parts are still available from Ruger.
Depending on how bad the pitting is, the gun may shoot decently if it is not too bad. Relining is also a possibility.
Years ago I picked up a pretty ugly Ruger semiauto .22. It turned into a very good shooting pistol Many parts are still available from Ruger.
paulj84003
Well-known member
MK 1 barrel
Ruger barrels are screwed in very tight, but can be removed as stated above with good barrel blocks and wrench. I have a 4 3/4" bbl and 3, 6" barrels for sale. 45.00 ea plus 6.00 shipping. They are all very good shape and were removed from MK 1's when I made bull barrels for them back in the 80's
PaulJ
Ruger barrels are screwed in very tight, but can be removed as stated above with good barrel blocks and wrench. I have a 4 3/4" bbl and 3, 6" barrels for sale. 45.00 ea plus 6.00 shipping. They are all very good shape and were removed from MK 1's when I made bull barrels for them back in the 80's
PaulJ
MichiganScott
Well-known member
Might be time to consider a new upper from one of the gunsmiths that specialize in accurizing Rugers.
mkk41
US Veteran
The receiver tube the barrel is screwed into is the serial numbered part and considered the firearm.
AMT sold stainless barreled receivers in various lengths before Ruger produced the MKII in stainless.
Maybe somebody can explain a few things to me about the Ruger MK 1 pistols. As I recall and I could well be mistaken but I thought Bill Ruger made these receivers of stamped metal in two halves. If they are how is the barrel shank threaded and supported without something solid and milled ? I am missing something critical here as I never worked on any but would love if somebody could fill in the blanks for me
Regards
Regards
MichiganScott
Well-known member
You're right. I just looked at my wife's. I've never been able to figure out why Ruger would do that.
The grip frame is made of stamped steel. The receiver is made of steel.
Thanks Bill. I will have to look at one of these next time a get a chance and study them a bit.
regards
OP
Pitting is not good within barrel, just rough in spots. Instead of just replacing barrel, I'm going to just put it back together and see how it shoots. Already paid $35 for two clips. In guns condition it is not worth putting money in. Thanks for all the tips.
GARBLER, check out the attached pictures.
GARBLER, check out the attached pictures.
Attachments
As noted above, the 'grip frame" is indeed two halves, welded together, no need for 'strength as its ONLY the gripping frame,,,,the receiver (upper) two pieces, a steel tube with a barrel threaded and screwed on...this "steel tube" ( upper) receiver is the actual serial numbered part, thus it's the "gun" and needs to be treated as such, the grip frame, the bolt, the mainspring housing, are just all component parts, then finally grip panels and the sights....ALL "fixed" sight versions of the Ruger 22 pistol from 1949 to 1982 are "standard autos", either a 4 5/8 in or 6 inch , the Mark I, is a "target" model, adjustable rear sights, with either a 5 1/4 , 5 1/2, 6 7/8inch barrels, later,, the Mark IIs had MORE selection of barrels and ALL the models after 1982 were Mark II's, mainly the bolt stays open ,locked back on the 'last shot', and the magazines then held 10 shots versus the early 9 shot version...hope this helps...........yeah, I AM the rugerguy !!
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