The title says it all. I checked Brownell, Numrich and Midway, they're all either back ordered or discontinued.

Try calling Smith&Wesson.

And remember.....the yoke screw is a hand fitted part, which you'll have to do yourself. They don't come pre-fitted.

Located one on E-bay if you are still needing one......

Smith Wesson Endshake Screw s w 10 12 13 14 15 050490701 Gun Parts | eBay

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Thanks for the find. Too bad the vendor only accepts Paypal, and for personal reasons, I refuse to use Paypal. I'll try to contact the vendor to see if he'll accept a money order or something.

Try Jack First in Rapid City, SD. Google them for contact details.

I just got a couple screws from them, for a 34. they make thair own. nice work. It cost more to ship then the screws

Thanks for all the help. I was in a local gun store, got to talking about the screw and a retired S&W smith said he was pretty sure he had one. He also offered to go over my revolver to make sure that was the problem

What is the problem that you think a new yoke screw is going to cure? Does the yoke bind when swinging it open? The earlier 3-screw sideplate guns have 2 round-head screws & 1 flat-top, I usually "fit" both of the round-toppers to work in the forward hole by filing them slightly shorter as required to eliminate any binding on the yoke shaft. Doesn't usually take too much. I can't think of any oher problem that might be screw-related.

I was going along fine, 3 or 4 reloads, then on the next reload, the cylinder wouldn't close, like it hit a hard stop. Took the cartridges out and it still wouldn't close and I didn't want to force anything. It looked as if the yoke was further forward than normal. It was suggested the screw might be worn and I thought it wouldn't be a big deal to just get another screw. Guess I was wrong about that

If it was worn it should be easier to close. My guess is some crud may have gotten in the way, or if there is any possibility of a burr in the way. That could be cleaned up with a fine stone.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Extractor rod starting to come unscrewed, maybe? Did the gunsmith look your gun over yet to ascertain the problem?

It's tight, but I'll have the gunsmith check again. I have an appointment this afternoon.

Just got back from the smith. It seems the yoke/crane pin (don't know if that's a proper name) is loose. Is it supposed to be a press fit? What now?

Hah. I was just about to leap head-long into this thread with some brilliant words of wisdom, until I saw the term "Yoke pin". I have no idea what that is, so I'll go back to my corner, and keep quiet.

We're not talking about the old yoke detent pins from the 1910's through 1920's, are we? Nah. Couldn't be.

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Why, I aughta.....

It's the part of the yoke that goes into the frame, upon which the yoke pivots (the yoke pin fits into its groove). Sorry, I don't know the proper terminology. I did look at some schematics and I guess it isn't a part by itself.

Yikes! Are you saying that the yoke stud (the part that slides into the frame, came loose from the yoke body (the blued part that shows)? If that's the case, I've never heard of that happening, so I have no advice to offer (good, bad, or other). I wonder if that's even fixable.

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Why, I aughta.....

Exactly. It must be fixable, they got it in there in the first place