I've recently acquired a 5 screw Smith revolver. In the test where you cock hammer/depress trigger while holding hammer back/slowly lower hammer/keeping trigger depressed while you check for play in the cylinder, the cylinder has some play. Cylinder #1 is the most play. #2 less play, and so on, until cylinder #6 which has no play.

I watched a video put out by MidwayUSA on replacing the hand.

Two questions. At what point do we decide how much "slop" is too much? Any? Or only when it fails to go into time? None of my revolvers have much play as I don't shoot them much. My Colt Python which I bought new in 1977 only has maybe 3000 rounds through it. And I've shot that more than the rest.

Second, if I were to install an oversized hand, if it eliminates all "slop" on cylinder #1, what happens at cylinder #6 where it's already locking up tight? What kind of adjustment for this?

thanx

Interesting function test I'm not familiar with. S&W revolvers are deliberately built with a touch of rotational play in the cylinder. Provided your cylinder is locking into alignment within proper spec, the play isn't a problem; you can buy range rods to check this. At the range, an indicator that you're not coming into proper alignment is spitting or shaving lead.

As for replacing the hand: if in slow single and double action the cylinder stop engages each cylinder notch (that gentle "click" you hear as the cylinder locks into place, aligning the charge hole with the forcing cone) before the hammer drops, you're in time and don't need to replace the hand.

Thanks. I don't need to replace the hand.

The test you describe is more applicable to Colts - where you don't want any play. As Hapworth stated a little play is OK in an S&W.

Jeff