"Plugged" D.I.Y. Style

Rick_A

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With the current status in limbo I decided to tackle this on my own.

First step was finding the perfect screw(s). With the head cut off and polished and with a little turning on a drill it was almost ready to go.

20150306_193046_LLS by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

That's a start. It was actually the 2nd one I made. The first was cut off first then flung somewhere across the garage while using a rotary tool to smooth down the inside surface.

Not wanting a repeat the dremel stayed away and the back side stayed a bit ugly on #2.

20150306_204325 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

The unused clip from the first plug purchase was ideal for mine as the groove for it was made with a small triangular file. The factory retainer pushed it cockeyed.

Not too bad.

20150306_204208 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

It was apparent that the side plate had not been off before. As is customary the internals were bone dry with a little bit of grit thrown in. The trigger was actually pretty smooth considering and only got better with a little lube. It still feels heavier than my 442, but that one has a couple years head start on it.

The offending parts.

20150306_214846 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

That little unplugged hole is a little irritating, but I can certainly live with it.

20150306_213838 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

It finally feels like mine.

It was done old school with a drill, hacksaw, files, and sandpaper. Certainly not the most efficient way to do it, but that's what I've got.

The wife only asked if it was legal :rolleyes:

At least I didn't get a hard time for gun parts and screwdrivers all over the living room table.

Lots of folks here are all about pre lock guns and such but this one was cheap, in great shape, and has proven to be an excellent shooter.

Thanks for reading.
 
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Looks good. I'd be tempted to Scotchbrite that little etched arrow and L away, too.
 
I'm okay with the "L." Not worth the trouble.

That clip went in with some force. The ends needed to be forced through the groove in order to make it around the plug. I don't think it'll be going anywhere.

Saved $25 but lost a few hours. I would much rather have just have got one. Either way it's "fixed" to my satisfaction.
 
Could you have threaded a fine thread SS bolt in and heavily staked the back side? I've seen the plug that is sold but never needed to do it as I don't own any lock guns currently.
 
I keep having a crazy thought, of checking to see if I can use a primer and some locktite pressed in to plug the lock hole. Im not even sure if it will work as I have not had a chance to measure the hole diameter.
 
I think that looks a whole lot better than my "official" stainless plug in an aluminum 396.
Not only is the finish a little off, it's not quite flush either.
If I had an aluminum screw, I would be tempted to try and imitate your success.
I don't think I have the patience to hand crank on a stainless screw.

===
Nemo
 

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I think that looks a whole lot better than my "official" stainless plug in an aluminum 396.
Not only is the finish a little off, it's not quite flush either.
If I had an aluminum screw, I would be tempted to try and imitate your success.
I don't think I have the patience to hand crank on a stainless screw.

===
Nemo
I think a bead blast finish would work well on that.

Mine isn't perfectly flush. It's about a hair below the surface and was more matte than the gun finish. I put a little bit of polish on it, but went just a little too far.

20150312_104857 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

The hard work was done with a drill, but there was a lot of file work and sanding for such a little part. Much time could have been saved with more power tool use, but I get best results with hand made stuff in using my fingertips.
 
The spring clip is mounted in such a way that the recoil will actually force it ONTO the plug and further in the channel.
As the OP mentioned, the clip is kind of jammed into the channel and doesn't really have any room to move.
If I was worried about it, I would have glued it in but want to be able to take it out if needed.
The 396 has fairly heavy recoil (not like a 329 but..)
I will let you know if it fails but doubt it will.

As a side note; I am wondering why a majority of these replacements are seen on the "hammerless" models.
I followed an online video for a gun very similar to the OP's but once inside observed the obvious minor differences in lockwork.
It was easier than I imagined.

---
Nemo
 
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At the risk of being flamed here, I don't really get why people buy a new Smith with the I/L and then go through the time, trouble, effort and expense to install a plug or similar devise when there are so many older non - I/L guns still readily available. NOT TO MENTION any legal ramifications that might arise should something happen with an altered weapon.

I DO GET IT if there is a new model that comes out and there is no pre I/L counter-part, but for the most part there are plenty of older ones available that are (IMHO anyway) even better than the new ones. I understand this is just my personal opinion and you may not agree - just my thoughts...............

I am not waging any "war" on the S&W Co. and it's quite obvious that they are not going to voluntarily eliminate the I/L but if their sales of Revolvers fell low enough because of it I would think that they might strongly reconsider it. At the end of the day S&W is no different than any other Company that manufactures a product for sales to the general public - they want to sell their products and make money. If people stopped buying their products for a specific reason they would have to ask why, and hopefully rectify the problem. If Colt ever gets off their brain dead butts and reissues a Dick Special (with no I/L) I think they would send Smith a strong message and might force their hand if people started buying them instead of J-Frames because of this issue.

I guess I am just kidding myself because if it hasn't happened yet it probably never will, but when someone who asks my advise asks me what Revolver I recommend for them its NEVER an I/L version - that's for sure!
 
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When last available the plug was ~$30.

Being a bit crafty I don't mind making one.

This in a pre lock is an expensive rarity:

20140915_101230 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

...and the 649 was too cheap to pass up.

Both guns are exceptional and I'd have been a fool to pass them up.

The lock is a storage device. There is no more liability than leaving the cable lock in the box. It's certainly less than trigger and action jobs and such.

If you don't like the new guns, so be it. I see no reason not to enjoy what they have to offer.

Most don't care about the lock either way. To some it's the end of the S&W world. To me there's a simple solution.
 
Use clear silicone glue to hold the plug in. If anything fails, the plug falls off, but there is no loose spring to lock up the mechanism. Use JB Weld if you want the plug to stay there permanently.

That's a great point about that spring clip possibly coming loose and fouling the lockwork, thanks for sharing.
 
That's a great point about that spring clip possibly coming loose and fouling the lockwork, thanks for sharing.


The clip can likely be replaced with some aircraft safety wire. Twisted and terminated, it will never pop off, but can be removed if desired.
 

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