Re: Hand Ejector .32
Have new Yoke Screw to replace the one that was missing.
Cannot tighten fully w/o causing Crane to bind.
Any suggestions?

New parts are usually oversized to allow for fitting.SLOWLY and carefully shorten the tip of the screw by maintaining the original profile. Use stones, emery cloth, a very fine file but take a LITTLE at a time . Cut and try 'til just right. You can speed up the process by chucking the head of the screw in a drill press or power drill but, again, go slowly and remove as little as possible 'til it works properly. Nick

Thanks Nick.
Was unsure if prob. was the length,or the circumferance of the Yoke Screw.

When I have done it I turned down the end in a drill press holding some 600 grit emery paper against it "slowly". I made sure that part fit first, then it was easier to shorten it for correct fit as it would go in all the way. I still prefer these vs. the new spring loaded pointed screw. I don't think the new one is near as solid as the old one.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I've never seen one that was too long.

If you have other Smiths, pull the yoke screws, clean them well, and look at them with magnification.
Do this ONE gun at a time, or use different tables, or SOMETHING to make sure you get them back in the right guns!
You'll usually see a small flat or bevel filed on the narrow end. That was done to clear the yoke.

Occasionally, the fitter filed the yoke instead. I have no idea if there was a policy to be followed, or if the fitters were just told to "make 'em fit".

So-
FIRST, make sure you don't still have the original fitted yoke screw in another hole! I've seen that a million times.

If not, you can fit the new one.
Pull the yoke.
Run the screw into the hole WITHOUT the yoke in the gun.
Tighten snugly.
With a lead pencil, mark the screw at exactly 9 o'clock toward the butt. That mark is where you need to file the tiny flat or bevel on the end of the screw where it hits the yoke.
Go SLOW, use trial and error. Be careful running the screw in hard when it is still too large- you can put a nasty burr on the yoke. Way easier if you leave the cylinder out of the mix and use the bare crane while you fit the screw.
You can take more off, but you can't put any back on.

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Regards,
Lee Jarrett

Lee,

Aren't you incorrectly thinking of which side of the screw needs to be reduced? It should be toward the rear that it contacts the yoke, at nine o'clock of the screw.

Many thanks for taking the time to give me excellent,skilled advice!
Gonna' get strted on it soon as I finish this lasr cup of Coffe & will let ya'll know how it goes.
Again,thank you all Gentleman!

YES!
Sorry for the error.
Rushing too much and visualizing from the yoke side. Still, stupid error- should be towards the butt.
I'll edit that.

__________________
Regards,
Lee Jarrett

Problem solved!
Works just fine now!
My thanks to all for their help!