OK, I poked around quite a bit, and while there's a TON of GREAT information here, I haven't found THIS issue specifically listed. If I missed it, apologies in advance, and PLEASE point me in the right directions.

I have a revolver someone brought to me which has an oversized cylinder stop in it that is not working correctly. I'm able to disassemble the gun, but can NOT get the #$%^$#ing cylinder stop out!

I've tried the regular method of depressing and prying, I've tried using two fine bladed screwdrivers, and I've even tried from the end of the frame with the crane removed.

It feels like it's stuck on something, but for the life of me, I can't figure what it would be! The only other thing left in that area is the small spring and pin which pushes the cylinder stop back up into position.

Please anyone who has ever encountered this and resolved, let me know how you accomplished it.

At present, I've put the gun aside, while considering getting an endmill to cut the blasted thing out....

Time for a cold drink of water.

Thanks again.

E

Welcome from Texas! While you may not find your specific problem searching the forum, it does seem specific to revolvers. Someone may come along and be able to help, but you would probably get a quicker response in the revolver area of the forum. I hope you find the help you need.

Howdy from Ohio...good to have you in the house!

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M&P FS 9mm
M&P Shield 9mm

Welcome aboard from the great state of Pennsylvania! Now, until a member pipes in - it would be helpful if you identified the pistol. Take a look at To IDENTIFY your Gun...

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.:God Bless America:.

The ball end of the aftermarket stops is oversized in every dimension, including the bottom where the arched cutaway is for the trigger pin, which often makes it very difficult to remove. Try using a very small pry tool with a right angle at the tip, like a dental pik for instance. Place the angled tip under the ball, and/or body of the stop and apply gentle upward pressure. It's important to keep the part "straight" during removal....in other words, try to put equal pressure on the ball and the body of the stop as to attempt to remove, otherwise the part may bind up. Sometimes it helps to insert the stem of a small drift punch above the stop after you have pulled it down, to hold it down while you attempt to lift under the ball and body. (see photos)
Also take a look at the stop stud and make sure it's not bent. If the stud gets even slightly bent upward out of position, in can prevent the cylinder stop body from passing upward through the space provided.

Attached Images

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Just getting the regular ones out isn't all that easy!
Perhaps using the same pick to get under the spring and gently lift it so it takes the tension off may allow the stop not to get bound up from the spring tension. Getting the spring out first may help?

Karl

There were two types of cylinder stops used in post war S&W revolvers. The earlier type used with the 4 and 5 screw frames had a screw and pin in the front of the trigger guard that tensioned the cylinder stop, and had no hole in the front of the stop. Later 3 screw frames have different cylinder stop with a hole in the front of the stop that contains spring, but no pin to tension the stop. If someone has put a later stop with the hole in it into the earlier type frame, the pin in the earlier frame may enter the hole in the stop and prevent its removal. In that case, remove the screw and pin in the front of the trigger guard, and try again to remove the stop.

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Tom
1560

Presumably someone forced it i to place and so even though it might be over sized and could even have developed a burr, it should still come out.

Try a super slick lubricant and like armoror51 said, keep it straight while pulling it out. Be careful NOT to use the Trigger Stud as a leverage point for prying - you could do damage. I've encountered a few real tight ones that were not fit correctly but perseverance and common sense has always been successful in getting them out.

When you do get it out, proper fitting is essential for correct operation of the Revolver before reinstalling.

As a possible LAST RESORT - (never had to resort to this) the old one could be cut out or ground down and replaced. Again - - a LAST RESORT option but better than bending the trigger stud!

armorer951 has provided some excellent guidance but . . . before applying his technique on 3-screw frames . . . I found it helpful to compress the stop spring first. Using a pair of dental picks, compress the spring from the frame end until it pops out of the pocket. Now applying 951's technique, lift the cylinder stop and spring out as an assembly.

If not contained in a plastic bag, be prepared for the spring to launch into the far corners of the shop . . . but it probably needed a new spring anyway!

Good luck,

Russ

Chances are that the trigger pin is bent up slightly toward the stop window so the ball end of the stop will not fit between pin and frame, I have seen many like this. Carefully try to put a little tension on trigger pin while lifting the cylinder stop straight up once it starts up you will be home free.

Personally, BEFORE I tried bending the Trigger Stud I'd cut the old Cylinder Stop out! They are readily available and cheap enough. I'd rather replace the Cylinder Stop than deal with replacing a bent or loose Stud. YMMV!

If you have tried lubing the stud and there is still no way it's coming off, just cut it and replace the Cyl. Stop. Again, I would NOT bend or try to move the Stud in any way! They are tricky and tough to replace without refinishing the gun.

I've encountered a few tight ones but never had one like you are describing. Sounds like someone forced it in - big time!