I just bought a used 686-5 and took it to the range. I shot 25 357 and 25 38's. I had two light strikes on the 357 and one on the 38. You could definitely see they were light strikes. I did get two to fire after a second try but one 357 never went off.
I read about the screw under the grip being loose? How tight should it be? And any other ideas?

It should be all the way tight. That is how alot of shooters loosen upo the trigger pull. I would start there if that is not the issue then the plate must come off could be really dry in there or have other spring issues.

Good Luck

Pete

Thanks I'll check it.

Sometimes when you get a light strike the cartridge will never go off because the primer pellet is fractured by the first strike. Tighten the strain screw under the grips.

Have the same problem with a 69 I purchased at the LGS a couple of weeks ago. Just walked back in the house from the mail box, have my brownell's order in hand which has an extended firing pin which I understands will also help. Hope to be "gunsmithing" in the morning to see if that cures my problem. Previous owner changed springs because that 11-12 pound double action is a cute 6 pounds and slick as anything I ever pulled the trigger upon. It did not like my CCI primers, so understand that Remington primers are the softest of the large pistol, I hope the Rem primers and new firing pin lets me keep the nice trigger.

I think you will find Federals even lighter than the Remington's.

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John

Often here somebody looses the screw to get a lighter trigger, then they come on and say they are getting light strikes. Of course often it's the previous owner that wanted to sell a gun with a light trigger.

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"He was kinda funny lookin'"

Probably not. You're in the land of Federal primers, light lubricants, competition picky. I like another pound even on my IDPA revolver because misfires drive me nuts and may cost more time than a slightly lighter trigger is worth.
Extended firing pins also tend to break more often, especially from considerable dryfiring.

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Science plus Art

Mine were wwb And some Serbian stuff I can't remember the name of right now

If the strain screw is tight and the correct length, your next step is open it up and see how dirty it is inside, and is there a big "kink" in the mainspring? Do you have good reliable quick trigger return? That is often a problem as the "home gunsmiths" either clip a couple coils off or put in a 11 or 12 lb. return spring. It needs at least a 14 lb for reliable return.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I went back to the range today. The strain srew was at least 25% or more out. I tightend it up snug and no light strikes out of 100 rounds.
I have to admit I liked trigger feel before I tightened the screw. The double is grittey in the first part of the pull and the single is ok but not as glassy as before. But it fires every time.

The strain screw has one function...to facilitate removal and reinstallation of the leaf spring.

It was NEVER intended to be used to adjust the trigger in any way.

Wolf spring kit will change all that, and not very expensive. Just changed a spring today, 13 pound double went to about 7 to 7 1/4 and the single is a smooth 2 3/4, wow. Kit is only about $ 15. Watch Jerry Miculeck (sp?) Youtube on how to change the two springs, was about as simple as he makes it out to be and a fun thing to do with the gun.

I do have range time planned for tomorrow to see if the extended firing pin solved all my problems. Noticed the pin is 0.020" longer that the factory pin and the end of the pin is a nice true half circle where the factory pin did not have that nice circle. If it breaks, I will buy another one, they are not expensive and I was totally surprised at how easy it was to change, just pull the pin out, drop out the old firing pin, drop in the new pin and replace retainer pin and put the side plate back on.

Lighter springs will never replace a good action job done buy a Professional Gunsmith

What exactly is included in an action job by a gun smith? Besides polishing the bearing surface on the single and double action, what other things do they do to the action?

Make sure you inspect the travel of the rebound spring slide as you single-action cock the gun. It is likely that toward the end of cocking the hammer the rebound slide will hit the mainspring unless you are using the 'reduced power' mainspring as it has more arch in it. If it does a little filing on the top nose of the rebound slide may help or you may have to put a bit more arch into the mainspring in that area.
I say this from experience
Karl

You should open 'er up clean it and apply some gun oil like H Richard suggested. I use CLP sparingly.
If you install an extra-length firing pin you must use snap caps or you'll break the pin.
You didn't say if this is to be a target pistol or one used for self defense. If target you can tune it real good but for S/D I'd stick with a slightly heavier pull to guarantee positive ignition. You won't notice the pull weight if things go hot.