Barrel Tools

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first-model

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Hello everyone,

I'm at a point in my gunsmithing where I'd like to invest in the tools to properly unscrew revolver barrels. The reading I've done suggests that this takes a combination of blocks to support the frame, and a well fitted wrench (with the correct blocks) to grip the barrel itself. I have no interest in doing any damage to my guns, so I'd rather take my time and research this thoroughly and invest in good tools up front, than try to "redneck" a solution that will hurt me and/or the gun.

Most of the Smiths I'm interested in working on are I frame guns, but I'd like to invest in tools that would be as reusable as possible (so I could, say, work on an M1917, if that's possible).

I'm not sure if I'm using the wrong search terms in Google, or if these tools simply aren't made and sold. Can those of you that are knowledgeable about these things point me in the right direction?

Mike
 
Never mind, guys. I spent some time reading various posts about this on the forum, and it looks like proper barrel installation takes a lot more than the correct wrenches and blocks. I'm probably not interested in turning barrels on my lathe (yet), and in the interest of keeping these old guns in the best possible condition I'll leave them alone until I find someone with the time and inclination to train me in this black art.

Mike
 
I did a quick search for "gunsmith tools for revolvers" and found many many options available.
 
Comrad said:
I did a quick search for "gunsmith tools for revolvers" and found many many options available.
Click to expand...

Thanks Comrad. I did that and see a lot of tools for K frames, but I don't see much for older I frame guns.

And given the manifold complexities involved in reinstalling a barrel (even the same barrel) back on a frame, I'm not sure that this is something I'm ready to take on right now. I think I'll wait and learn how to do this from a learned individual before I start investing in tools that will make me dangerous to old guns.

Mike
 
First Model, I think your first post had it backwards. You secure the barrel with blocks in a vise. Then using a special receiver wrench you unscrew the frame from the barrel. When barrels were simply pinned it wasn't a huge deal. Now with press fit barrels it can be a lot tougher. If reinstalling with an overly large barrel/cylinder gap you might use a lathe to set back the shoulder. But ordinarily if the gap isn't out of spec, all you need do is use one of the tools Brownells sells to square up the breech end and recut the forcing cone.
 
I think you have just learned a great amount of knowledge and common sense . IT is best to gain knowledge before we tackle some jobs. I have learned many things the hard way

That's why this forum is so great
 
There is a gent on youtube who does several revolver barrel resets (S&W's) using nothing but hand tooling available from Brownell. There is a hand tool that is used to cut the barrel shoulder for the setback along with end trimmers to set barrel/cylinder gap and a forcing cone reamer and go-no go gauge. Runs right around $500 for everything including the frame wrench and inserts. I've been tempted.
 
I have the tools listed in the above post from brownells , they do work as advertised an do a good job if you follow directions and take your time
 
If you have a lathe and are proficient with it, it is much easier than you think to reset or fit a barrel.....

Accuracy in measurement and metal removal is the most crucial part. (along with indicating the barrel in)

I made a bull barrel from a blank for a .32 I-frame with not all that much machining experience. (but started with an inexpensive gun)

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/236991-resurrection-32-he.html

As far as a frame wrench and barrel blocks (by the way, it doesn't matter which one you hold, and which one you turn, if properly supported) you can always cast your own to put in the vise and use any number of ways to sandwich the blocks on the end you intend to turn......
 
I have used the hand barrel set back tool on 2 barrels and it works well but is tiring on your hands as it basically is a hand operated lathe. Have since got a lathe and is much easier.
Be sure to support barrel and frame when turning in or out.
Use proper bushings and plenty of oil when cutting gap and forcing cone . Also use proper pilot when facing barrel.
These tools work well and come with detailed instructions also brownells are very good at answering any questions you may have.
Hope this helps you out. The tools are not hard to use ,just take your time and think before you cut. Check progress often,i didn't on first one and cut way to much off,had to start over.
 
Barrel work on I Frames (discontinued years ago) is the most risky of all the Frames because of the small size of the old and possibly metal fatigued guns. Removing barrels on larger Framed guns is still a highly skilled job but much more forgiving than on the fragile I Frames IMHO.

For the once in a blue moon when a barrel needs to be swapped on an I Frame, I'd send that one to an expert! Someone who does it all the time, has the skills, tools and proper vise and jigs is a whole lot less likely to have an "OOOPPSSSSS".

I have been working on my own stuff for 35 years now but will admit to never have had to change out a barrel. If I did, I don't think I'd do that myself unless I knew someone locally who had all the proper equipment to do so and refit. The Reamers and tools are not cheap either and would more than likely cost you way more than it was worth - unless of course you are going into the barrel swapping business. :)
 
My thoughts were about adjusting barrel/cylinder gap to where I want it. Most of my revolvers are in the .008-.011 range and I would love to take these range guns down to .005 (approx). Just trying to decide what is worth what. Almost all are K/L frame guns.
 
My suggestion (for future purchases) would be to buy a feeler gauge and take it with you next time you purchase a Revolver. Better yet, throw it in your glove box so you always have it and this way you can avoid excess B/C Gap guns.
 
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