Preparing to do some polishing work in a few K/L/N frames and I'm sticking with factory mainsprings but swapping rebound springs. I have a 13lb. spring on hand from a Wolff spring kit which feels OK even before the polishing, but noticed that Brownells lists "refill paks" containing 10 springs, available in 11, 12, and 13lb.

I plan to buy one of these paks and would like to know the lightest reliable rebound spring that can be used when the rebound slide and mating surfaces are polished in the K/L/N frame?

What I'd REALLY like to be able to do is try one each of the 11lb and 12lb springs before I place my order for the pack, but of course they're not available individually!

Thanks for sharing your own experiences,
Lou

__________________
NRA Certified Instructor & RSO

There's no correct answer because it's entirely contingent on action and condition of the specific revolver the spring will go into.

Some are heavily competition tuned and can easily run and 11lbs rebound spring; some standard actions will get hitchy or sluggish with 13lbs or more.

As a general rule, a properly functioning, cleaned and lubed S&W action will accept a 14lbs rebound spring without tuning, though that doesn't necessarily mean you will like the feel.

Experimenting in your specific application is the only way to answer your question.

Hapworth gave the perfect answer. Not only is it the gun but the shooters "feel" will dictate what is best for him/her.

What the guys said above. Personally I have had good luck with 13# springs USUALLY, but not always.

To go along with what Hapworth said....use caution, as there are safety concerns when substituting rebound springs. Remember that the proper return of the rebound slide positions the hammer seat on the rebound under the rebound seat on the hammer. If the hammer and rebound springs have been sufficiently/improperly altered, this critical interface can be affected to the point where this primary safety in the action will not function properly. (gun could discharge when dropped)

Improper or insufficient spring tension can also effect the SA trigger pull to the point where it drops dangerously below the factory spec of 3lbs. Light springs can aggravate a pre-existing problem, like push-off, for instance, and make it worse.

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

That's why I just buy stock springs and cut them to whatever length I want to get the spring force I need for a specific gun.

That gives me an idea........I'll just buy the 13lb. pak and if I want to tinker with even lighter rebound weights I can always remove a coil at a time. I'll have plenty of spares in case I trim too far.

Thanks,
Lou

__________________
NRA Certified Instructor & RSO

While you are in pusuit of the ideal action for your revolver, consider carefully the legal issues and possible ramifications regarding altering (modifying, substituting) the manufacturers construction of the firearm to your own specifications.
Always keep in mind that you alone, not the manufacturer, will bear the responsibility for these changes, should an accident occur. You will have to justify changes made to a particular firearm that you own or have worked on.

Also, these modifications and alterations may void the lifetime warranty of the product.

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

For reliability, I normally won't go below 14 lb. and like you I always retain the original mainspring.

__________________
H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Good Lord, haven't you ever heard of a revolver action job? I've read the Kuhnhausen shop manual cover to cover several times (as well as the Gun Digest Book of Pistolsmithing by Jack Mitchell, which I've had for many years), and I definitely know my way around the inside of a S&W revolver.

So thanks for the words of warning, but I assure you, my name isn't "Bubba".

Can't a guy ask for a little technical information without folks assuming the worst?

Lou

__________________
NRA Certified Instructor & RSO

Definitely warrants personal testing.

I had a couple of revolvers (M29 and M37) modified by Austin Behlert, and he probably went towards light, yet both were perfectly reliable. I also have a Model 10 which I remember taking to a gunsmith because I would have what appeared to me to be rock-solid lockup (I actually wasn't releasing the trigger completely). He said that the geometry of the K frame somewhat promoted that problem. Obviously, grip choice, rebound spring weight, hand size, and personal tendencies all figure into that. I now use only full-strength rebound springs.

Obviously, YMMV.

Im currently running a 620 and 29-10 with wilson combat 12# rebound springs using the factory main springs. 100% reliability out of both. Action quality is above average.

Make sure to cut ONLY ONE END. Dress the cut end with a file and make sure that end goes into the rebound slide. The uncut end has to go against the frame post.

I have never heard of a single instance where a warranty was voided by reducing springs in a gun. Butchering the parts with a stone, maybe... but not dropping in light springs. I have read many posts about people who had reduced power spring kits in their guns which had to go back to SW for repair and the gun returned repaired with the springs replaced with stock ones..... so you may want to replace the originals if it has to go back to the mother ship.

Hapworths answer is very good. That said, I rarely go under 13 pounds because I do not like the sluggishness of the trigger being returned. I do have one or two in revolvers that are a pound or two less, but as a general rule a 13 pounder usually give a perfect balance of smooth, lighter, and reliable trigger return.

When my Dad passed away I found an envelope (containing a dozen or so) Trigger Return Springs NOT made my S&W. They are black in color, a slightly thinner wire gauge and noticeably smoother and lighter than the S&W or Wolff springs. While they are the same overall length, I have no idea what the weight is as they are not marked. All I can attest to is that they are just about the best and most perfect Trigger Return springs I have ever used!! I only wish I knew what they were, where he got them and where I can get more! Been using them for 4 years now and they are the BEST - just frustrates me to no end not being able to ID them for replenishment. I will say that judging from the age of the envelope they were in they are probably at least 40 or so years old!

By the way, back in the day it was quite common for guys to pop off their Side Plate and simply cut of a coil or two from the original Factory RB Spring - I do NOT recommend this procedure as shortening the overall length is the incorrect way to lighten pull weight. Some books or Youtube videos will say it is fine to clip off 1 or 2 coils (minimum to be 15 as they say) however I do not like this method. I can't tell you how many used Smiths I have purchased over the years that have indeed had clipped RB Springs! They have since been replaced! The Spring was made to a certain length by design and it's important to maintain that length. The proper way is to use a Spring made from a thinner wire gauge but still maintain the original length. Just wanted to mention that for someone thinking of doing so.

I find that if I do a complete polish as described in the various manuals/DVD's that a 13 pound spring still maintains a good trigger return rate in rapid double action work and I end up with a single action pull just under 3 pounds, about 2.75. Anything less than complete polishing or an old, very worn gun and the return will be sluggish.

When you shorten a coil spring you actually increase the force needed to compress it. You are reducing the preload of the spring but you are making it HARDER to compress.

Another vote for 13# springs... I shoot DA 99% of the time and have yet to tie up a gun. Have tried 12# springs and had problems....so this is where I stay...

Bob

I'm not acquainted with your level of skill or knowledge.....I am not questioning it at all.

My post was simply a reminder of the importance of safety when considering all modifications, particularly modifications that have a direct effect on the primary safety mechanisms of the gun. This would be the case when you are changing springs and pull weights, and stoning, polishing or otherwise modifying parts.

These same cautions are mentioned by Jerry Kuhnhausen in Section II title "Shop Safety" on page 32. He mentions "staying out of trouble, and out of court". I'm sure you have read this since you have read his book "cover to cover several times". He also cautions against removal of any safety device....like the hammer block, for instance. This dangerous practice is apparently fairly common among revolver owners, who mistakenly believe the block has some negative impact on the action itself.

As a RSO I'm sure you are keenly aware of the fact that, since we are dealing with a tool that can literally take a life, safety is not an option.....and cannot be compromised.

__________________
Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

If the action is slicked up well, 13 pounds is as low as I go.
For the worriers, I sent a NY-1 Model 64 back to the mothership for their combat action job.
Guess what they installed? Wolff springs.

__________________
-jwk-
US Army '72-'95

I use a 13 lb. spring. There should be enough spring force to return the trigger quickly and smoothly to the start position. Your finger should not have to wait for the trigger to catch up to it.

Rebound has nothing to do with ignition. That's the mainsprings job.

Reset is the rebounds job.

Go directly to the Wolff Springs web site. As I recall you can purchase individual springs in whatever tension you like.

Thanks for the suggestion, I should have thought of that! I'll definitely check out the Wolff website, although based on what I'm reading here, it seems as though most folks don't seem to go below 13lb. Still, it would be nice to be able to experiment for myself.

Thanks,
Lou

__________________
NRA Certified Instructor & RSO

Wolff sells individual rebound springs on their web site

__________________
Foster Positivity.