Hi Guys , i just pick up a S&W model 64-3 DOA bobbed hammer today. I put some snap caps in it and started to dry fire it ,the trigger was light and sweet everything was fine . For some reason i decided to add two drops of slip 2000 gun oil behind the trigger into the gun. a few minutes later i pick up the gun again and started to dry fire it again , but now the trigger sometimes gets stuck at the rear position every now and then . My question is it the slip 2000 oil making the reset slip or is it something else, will it go back to normal after the oil drips out or is it a flaw in the gun. Thank you .
S&W 64-3 DOA trigger getting stuck
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More than likely it's not the Slip 2000 itself (although I have never tried it) but the reaction with the Slip 2000 and gunk, old oil, dust, etc. that it globed onto. Old Revolvers should be disassembled, cleaned and re-lubricated when yo get them. The Slip probably activated old lubricant and may have combines with the gunk in there.
The other possibility is that the Rebound Spring or Stud broke but to know that you would have to disassemble the gun and take a peak anyway. Hopefully it's just dirty, but installing a new spring is no biggie. It it's the Stud, that is a big deal - let's hope not!
The other possibility is that the Rebound Spring or Stud broke but to know that you would have to disassemble the gun and take a peak anyway. Hopefully it's just dirty, but installing a new spring is no biggie. It it's the Stud, that is a big deal - let's hope not!
Thank you Chief38 , like i said it was fine before i put the oil in , but than again i only dry fire it about 30 times . After the oil i dry fire it about 30 more times before i started to notice the problem i hope it was the slip 2000 . How hard is it to disassembled it i'm new to revolvers i read you need special screws drivers to take off the side plate.
chief38's advice is right on, but the first thing you might want to check is the strain screw, located at the lower front of the grip portion of the frame. If it's not tightened all the way, you might be experiencing "knuckling", where the mainspring doesn't flex properly during trigger pull and can lock the revolver up.
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Good advice above. Also, it would certainly do no harm to pull off the stocks and throughly flush the internals with brake cleaner, lightly re-lubricate and check function; if the problem persists you or a qualified gunsmith should examine the internals.
By the way, I suspect you have a DAO (double action only), not a DOA (dead on arrival) trigger
. Please let us know what happens.
By the way, I suspect you have a DAO (double action only), not a DOA (dead on arrival) trigger
. Please let us know what happens.
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From the questions you have asked about how hard is it and screwdrivers....... (absolutely no offense intended here) I'd suggest a GOOD LGS. Like I originally stated, if it's just dirty or a broken RB Spring - it is not an expensive proposition. If it's more than that (like a broken Stud) you're gonna need a GS anyway. A Stud replacement is a job for someone more experienced.
NOT trying to talk you out of learning to work on your own guns - everyone interested has to start somewhere, so if you REALLY want to learn and have the mechanincal ability (and don't kid yourself if you do not) then buy Kuhnhausen's GSing Book, a set of Brownell's Screwdriver bits and a L/E Handle, and have at it. Just go SLOWLY, CAREFULLY, and if you are unsure - ASK QUESTIONS before proceeding. The GREAT thing about Smith Revolvers is that no matter which model you have or what frame size they are they are all basically the same. Some have recoil Main Springs and some Leaf Main Springs and the newer models do have I/L's but but BASICALLY all the same. Once you learn the basics you can work on all of them.
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For you more experienced out there. Would this be a reasonable approach?
Would it make sense for the OP to remove the grips,
Spray some Gunscrubber or brake cleaner into the internals,
Make sure everything is dry and blown out with compressed air,
Spray in some Rem Oil and let that drip out followed by some more compressed air.
Then test the gun.
I would think removing and reinstalling sideplates for a newcomer may be a bit of a task.
Would it make sense for the OP to remove the grips,
Spray some Gunscrubber or brake cleaner into the internals,
Make sure everything is dry and blown out with compressed air,
Spray in some Rem Oil and let that drip out followed by some more compressed air.
Then test the gun.
I would think removing and reinstalling sideplates for a newcomer may be a bit of a task.
BAR500
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There are some good videos (some not so good) on the web on how to disassemble, clean, inspect, lube and reassemble a S&W revolver. Not suggesting you perform the work. Suggesting you view the videos to gain a better understanding how the gun operates. DIY or LGS is your call. Good luck!
bountyhunter
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Actually, with his symptoms, a "DOA trigger" could be an accurate description..
By the way, I suspect you have a DAO (double action only), not a DOA (dead on arrival) trigger
I vote for the suggestion of removing grips, put tape over rear sight to keep it protected and hose down into the action with brake cleaner. Cock the hammer and hose into the opening.
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Why didn't I think of that?
Also, the rear sight on a model 64-3 is probably not going to be affected by brake cleaner, so taping it over is probably not needed.
Thank you guys, i will try to lightly flush it out with some brake cleaner, can i just spray it from behind the trigger and hammer . i really don't want to try to remove the side plate . Hopefully it's just dirty, the gunsmith can't see it until Saturday. I'll let you guys known thanks again.
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Yes, through the lower frame opening with the stocks off. A little difficult with a DAO spraying through the hammer opening but not impossible.
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At this point I believe he has no choice but to open it up and see what is going on. Spraying more stuff in now is sort of counter productive. If there is that much crud inside it MUST be properly removed. If something is broken it must be properly repaired or replaced. Spraying more stuff inside and blowing it around could actually make things worse - not a good idea IMHO.
If the OPer has no interest in working on his guns now or in the future, then you are correct. If this is something the OPer would like to learn, he might as well start now.
The first time I removed a S&W Side-plate (37 years ago) I had no clue as to what the hell I was doing either and did not have any Kuhnhausen books back then either
. I took it slowly and learned as I went. I did have the proper tools and do have mechanical ability so to me it was not all that risky. Yea - along the way I did make a few mistakes but that is how we learn. I will not be repeating those mistakes and will never forget them either - but that all comes with the learning process. Again, if he has no real interest or desire to work on his guns - as I stated he should seek out a GOOD LGS.
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Good to hear but now you should try to find out what caused the problem in the first place. It appears to be old oil or grease. You really need to get all that stuff out of there.
You have time to get a proper screwdriver review a lot of videos, and take the plunge. We are here to help.
Good luck with your new gun.
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