I have a Powers Custom built on a model 14 where the cylinder is starting to rub on the forcing cone when the gun warms up after 12-18 rounds. Endplay is .06. It only rubs on two of the cylinder chambers which aren't next to each other. The cylinder doesn't rub when cool. Any thoughts on how to repair? Nationals are next month and I don't like the hard trigger pull in the middle of a match! Any thoughts on this would be appreciated!!

There are two ways to reduce end shake, either stretch the yoke or install end shake washers.

I do not like washers because eventually someone who is not familiar with them does not know where they came from after sliding the cylinder off the yoke and throws them out. Their adherents say that because they are hardened it will be longer before end shake develops again. If you square up the ends for more precise washer fitting as recommended there will be even more end shake if the washers are lost. Instructions for installing them are in 500 Magnum Nut's frequently asked questions sticky in the Smith-Wesson smithing sub-forum: FAQ's

The factory would stretch the yoke. The tool to do it yourself was $25 from Brownell's but may have gone up. It is a tubing cutter with the cutting wheel replaced with a roller. It is not hard but it is best to practice on a junker Model 10 first. A gunsmith can do it in 10 minutes. It sounds like you have a nice revolver. I'd let a local smith do it.

k22fan pretty much covered it.

I'll assume you meant that the endshake is .006", not .06". If you have 1/16 of an inch endshake, something is horribly wrong.

FYI - Power Custom makes .002" endshake bearings and I believe Midway and Brownell's offers packs of 10 for about $15.

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"I also cook."

Besides the end shake you might want to check your ER and see if and how much it is out of round (bent). Even if end shake it the immediate/apparent cause, if everything was square and true they would rub equally. Because you state only two rub, I suspect a bent ER too.

Or, you can get the endshake washers here for less money, and fast service:
TriggerShims Brand Shim Kits

Also, in regard to this statement "I do not like washers because eventually someone who is not familiar with them does not know where they came from after sliding the cylinder off the yoke and throws them out"
that will not happen, because you have disassemble the cylinder, remove the ejector star and center rod to install them. Simply removing the cylinder from the yoke to clean etc., will not let the washers fall out.
I have installed approx 25 to 50 endshake washers, never an issue.

Since most people don't have a yoke stretching tool, or a yoke liner, or the training on how to properly use either this tool or the "peening" method to repair, the shims are the way to go for most shooters.
Triggershims.com is the place to get them....nice folks, high quality products, and free shipping.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

Correct, end shake is .006 which is mid-range for tolerances from what I understand. I know how to reduce end shake by stretching the yoke or adding Power's washers. But since the cylinder is already rubbing on the forcing cone wouldn't reducing end shake make it rub more? I checked the ejector rod and it is straight.

Stretching the yoke barrel, or adding a shim will move the cylinder back....away from the barrel.

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer