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04-13-2017, 07:20 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Marcupial, Ohio
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Installed a Wolf reduced main spring and 14# trigger return spring.
Installed on a 66-8. It was supper smooth but would only ignite 4 out of 6 rounds. I did have the tension screw in all the way.
What did I do wrong???
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04-13-2017, 07:36 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Kansas City area
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Nothing. Wolff has the "Power Rib" spring with the embossed rib going down the middle. The tip of the strain screw goes into the rib at the bottom, so it doesn't bend the spring as much as it would on a flat spring.
An easy fix if this is NOT a duty or carry gun is to get an 8-32 x 1/2" socket set screw and put it in with blue LocTite. With blue, after it sets up, you can still adjust the screw to get the tension you want and it will stay wherever you leave it.
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04-13-2017, 07:47 PM
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You didn't do anything wrong. The spring does not have the necessary strength to give reliable ignition. A few months ago, I tried the Wolfe reduced power mainspring in a model 67. While the trigger pull was marvelous, it failed to fire 20% of the time. When I reinstalled the S&W spring, it was 100% reliable again. The 14 pound return spring should work fine.
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04-13-2017, 08:14 PM
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I had the same issue after I changed the springs in my 686+. I think I was only getting 40% ignition if that. I used a spent, large pistol primer (from a spent .44 special casing to be exact) and put it on the end of the strain screw, then tightening the strain screw all the way. Problem solved.
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04-13-2017, 08:27 PM
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Do you reload? If so Federal primers may solve your issue on a better percentage of ignition.
However a little more tension from the mentioned strain screw can also dial it in. I tried a Wolff reduced, a Bang (Jerry Miculek) and also a Wilson Combat mainspring, each with different results but one of them ended up working well without going to Federal primers for me on my 686.
And I assume you mean it wouldn't fire in DA shooting?
Karl
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04-13-2017, 09:48 PM
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Call Wolff's customer service. They had some longer strains screws that you could cut to your desired length.
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04-14-2017, 09:57 AM
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Thanks
Thank's for the replies !!
And yes the problem was while shooting double action.
I think I'll stick with the oem main spring and the Wolff 14 # return spring.
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04-14-2017, 10:03 AM
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How about a installing longer firing pin and keep the light main spring?
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04-14-2017, 10:11 AM
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You didn't get the entire story...
Quoted from the Wolff website:
"The Power Rib Mainspring developed by W.C. Wolff Company is a patented mainspring for use in Smith & Wesson K, L and N frame revolvers. This spring has a unique variable power rib-back design. The Wolff Power Rib Mainspring dramatically improves the smoothness and consistency of trigger pull essentially eliminating stack up as well as providing optimum hammer action. This spring can usually take the place of expensive trigger jobs, with better results. For most target and non-critical applications, we recommend the TYPE-2 spring which is reduced power. For critical applications such as law enforcement, we strongly recommend the TYPE-1 spring which is factory equivalent in strength."
The OP didn't say which spring he used but I suspect it was a Type-2. Wolff's recommendation is that this spring ONLY be used with Federal primers for reliable ignition. Over the years I have replaced all OEM mainsprings with the Type-1 (factory equivalent) Wolff Power Rib Mainspring, and either 14 or 15 pound Wolff rebound springs. I find that combination provides the perfect balance in terms of feel, and is 100% reliable with every primer type I've ever used. You can at least approach the same feel by tweeking the OEM spring, but it normally takes a lot of grinding, polishing and bending to make it so. Plus it's one of those dark arts that used to be common knowledge, but over the years all those truly gifted at it have had the poor judgement to die of old age, or worse retire. Kind of like Colt revolver gunsmiths...the ones expert at Pythons and earlier models like the New Service.
Keith
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04-14-2017, 10:12 AM
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You still have to have a minimum strike force with any firing pin. The extended firing pin helps mostly with reloads where there may be rim thickness variations, primers seated below flush, endshake, or the original was too short to begin with. Most guns run best with (frame mounted) firing pins that are between .495 and .505.
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04-14-2017, 12:19 PM
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You are correct sir. It was a type two main spring.
I might try the type one spring like you recommend. Thanks.
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