Any suggestions on how to remove scratches from my SS 64-3? I've heard that Flitz paste and Scotch pads will work, but wanted to learn from you what works best before I attempt. I hope to get a "frost" appearance.
Thanks in advance!

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Fred
S&WCA 3238

Start with the Scotchbrite pads (gray) first. Light surface scratches can most likely be removed or least faded to some degree. This may be all you need to do. If that doesn't work for you (deeper scratches) then use a polishing paste. Flitz will work. I personally like to use a automobile compound light to medium scratch remover like Turtle Wax. This will brighten the finish so you'll again use the gray Scotchbrite to dull up the shiny area to take it back to the satin look once the scratches have been removed. Go slow and check often. Good luck

This all depends on how deep the scratches are. Stainless steel is really tough metal but scratches easier then carbon steel.

If the scratches are deep, you can use very fine wet or dry sand cloth with a large rubber eraser as a sanding block.
You have to do this with care so you don't dish out the area.
If scratches are too deep either leave it alone, or send it to a top professional gun refinisher to have it professionally re-done.

To remove finer scratches use the Scotchbrite pads that can be bought from automotive supply houses. These are sold for auto painting.
Some hardware stores sell them in smaller sizes in "grits" equivalent to steel wool.
You can even lightly use the green pads sold in grocery stores.

Polish out the scratches, then finish by "stroking" the pad in one direction, matching the direction of the original grained finish.
If you just rub the area, where you reverse the pad will leave circular scratches, so stroking in one direction prevents that.

You can use a metal polish like Flitz, Mother's Mag, or most any quality metal polish.
This will leave the area with a too shiny finish so finish with a Scotchbrite pad to restore the satin finish and even it all up so you don't have a varying look.

Another trick to even out the surface and dull it slightly requires totally disassembling the gun.
With the gun totally disassembled, mix up a cleansing powder like Barkeeper's Friend with water to form a paste.
Use a brass toothbrush and the paste to "scrub" the surface to blend and flatten the finish.

NEVER use steel wool on stainless ore aluminum.
Tiny particles of the low carbon steel will embed in the metal and can rust later, ruining the surface.

I do not own many Stainless guns - only 3 that I designate as carry guns (blued guns are my Fav) a M60-7, M65, M63. All my others are blue with a few Nickel thrown in for fun. Because I view Stainless guns as working/carrying guns I am not all that fussy about the finish being slightly scratched. I like to keep ALL my firearms in tip top shape, but my 3 working hand guns do have a few minor scratched that I do not fret about. I have never tried to polish these 3 particular ones and just look at them as "beauty marks".

I DID polish an older M60 (no dash) many years ago that I wound up selling and it did look nice afterwards. The Flitz and an old T shirt took out many of the small superficial light scratches, but the gun became very shinny as a result of the polishing job. The guy who purchased it was very fond of it and he still owns it till this day and it's a great working revolver too.

A newly polished Stainless gun will actually be prone to highlight scratches even more than a dull Stainless one will and unless you are going to polish it and gloss it up on a regular basis, it will keep getting scratched if and when it is carried and used. So unless you intend to shoot it on only a rare occasion or make it a safe queen, I'd truly not bother - but that's just me. Deep scratches will not come out very well unless you use a more aggressive method.

This is what a I did.

The gray Scotchbrite is considered “Ultra Fine” and my local Lowe’s had it.

Pick up a paint stirring stick or two while you are there, and some super glue gel.

Use wire cutters (some call them side cuts) to snip off a piece of one of the paint stirrers about 4” long.

Use scissors to cut a piece of the Scotchbrite to the size of the small paint stirrer stick.

Use Super Glue to coat the paint stirrer stick but leave at least 1/4” bare wood on the perimeter, that way it does not run off the sides.

Put the Scotchbrite piece on top of the Super Glue, and press it down evenly with your fingers or the longer piece of paint stirrer to get a good even adhesion for 45 seconds or so.

Now you have a flat piece of Scotchbrite you can use to brush in one direction as mentioned earlier and blend in the scratch.

It takes courage to make the first stroke, but once you do, you’ll realize it really works and I ended up doing my entire gun with it.

Finished up with Simichrome, and now I do it occasionally using my original piece to give my 629s a nice, even finish.

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