Grease Or Oil

I believe oil is a better lubricant than grease for tight clearances of metal to metal. Grease doesn't seep into very close tolerances like oil can. I also don't think grease does much in the way of embedding into smooth surfaces like oil can.
Wilson Combat says gun grease is for heavier guns and definitely not used where it is cold.
 
Flattop5 said:
I use heavy oil -- any 30-weight motor oil works well.

Light oil disappears way too quickly (it oxidizes too quickly).

Grease can cause problems because it hardens or turns gummy over time. Forget grease. (Although your mom's/wife's Vaseline does not seem to turn gummy or hard over time, who knows why :D ).


-------
Click to expand...
Vaseline was the only recommended lube on early Luger's + many other firearms for many years - never seen it hardened on anything -
 
The only type of lubricant I use inside of Revolvers is Rig #2 Oil. It is similar to Remoil in that it is very thin, won't attract crud and debris and the carrier evaporates leaving protection and lubrication behind. It has not let me down in over 40 years and I would NEVER use any grease inside a Revolver - but that's just me.
 
OP specifically asked about revolvers-- oil. Light oil.

Non-revolvers, have used a little grease on slides, BCGs, etc.. it is like a magnet for carbon and gunk and adopt the light oil approach.

I have learned over time a little truly does go a long way, especially if one maintains their gear properly.
 
We all have our favorites. My revolver internals and pistol internals get Neco Moly Slide............look them up, you might be glad you did:) It will lighten a trigger pull, I have measured it!
Karl
 
I'm old and I used to use only Rem Oil. When I found G96 products I switched to that. I like the smell, to me it's like bubblegum.
 
On revolvers, I use oil, Corrosion X is my current favorite, which is good since I have 3 bottles of the stuff and that is likely to be a lifetime supply. Oil is applied sparingly, you need just enough to lubricate and protect, nothing more.
 
Mike said:
Yep. I grease the trunnions on my under and over shotguns. I only use white lithium grease on my guns where grease is needed.
Click to expand...

I use a very tacky grease used on centerless grinding machines on the hinge pins only of my comp trap shotguns. If I do use a grease elsewhere, it is Ponsness -Warren STOS. Internal revolver compoents of any gun get a couple drops of military grade surplus LSA small arms weapon oil. I figure the govt did plenty of testing before they put something in service. I believe LSA stands for lithium small arms
 
Jessie said:
Watching “ Smiling Larry” of Midway, he wets his fingers with oil and rubs the internals and springs with those fingers.
I think that’s a good program.
A little of good lube goes a long ways
Click to expand...

hkcavalier said:
When I hear his voice on a video, I immediately think, "My gun is going to work after today!"
Click to expand...

Larry Potterfield is a blessing for those of us who work on our guns. Love that guy and his videos.

==============

As for revolver lube, I stick with some sort of light oil.If I goof up and use too much, a little compressed/canned air gets out the surplus.
 
I saw the "Smiling Larry" bit on tv last night. I was a bit surprised that
he didn't use grease on anything. Not even the yoke. Oil only simplifies
things so that's what I will do from now on.
 
Oil. Applied with either a small hypo type syringe/bottle or a toothpick.
If grease then I use Rig but a small can of that has lasted me 40 years.
The grease is mostly used on a rag to wipe down the exterior of blued guns and the bore if going into storage.
My grease rag now has most every lube ever made on it but Rem oil and Rig grease are the 2 biggies.

As an aside, when I took delivery of my 444 Marlin double rifle, it was packed with white lithium grease.
All over and in everything including the forearm (and poking out of the firing pin holes)!
It took me several weeks of carefully cleaning with Q-tips, patches, and toothpicks to get it all out.
I sparingly used some solvents but kept them away from the wood which I had removed and cleaned separately
before sealing the unfinished insides with some Dembart London stock finish.
I did use bore solvent on the copper that was filling up the rifling.
I think that gun was last "serviced" at an automobile garage before I got it.
Now it's a gem, fitting me perfectly as if I had "tried" at the factory and well regulated to boot.

That whole experience made me even less likely to use lithium grease on any gun for any reason.
There are better solutions.
 
Last edited:
Grease is a lubricant oil is a rust preventative. What are you trying to do with these? I sat in on a "Fafnir" siminar early in life and was told the reason most bearing sufaces fail in over lubrication!
Steve
 
Last edited:
After serving as a police armorer for several years, (30+) I'll give an opinion based on that experience. Those of you who carry firearms for a living, or for personal protection should carefully consider the environment you are going to be working in, (or outside in) and choose your favorite cleaners and lubricants based on this information.

Grease is never a good idea. Ever. Lots of oil, even light gun oil, only serves to attract dirt and dust, and render the firearm unusable or unreliable should it get really cold. Today's firearms, and particularly S&W produced revolvers need very little lubrication anywhere to function properly.

I would suggest looking under the sideplate of an "out of the box" gun (S&W) you have purchased recently for a suggestion on what and how much lubricant is needed in there. You won't find any.....zero. For those of you who carry and expose your carry gun to extreme cold, that is exactly what I would use under the sideplate. Nothing.
Be careful when doing your maintenance and cleaning too. The wrong liquids can get down inside the gun and cause all kinds of issues. I have some horror stories, believe me.

Exterior surfaces and parts of the gun exposed to rain, snow or sweat should be wiped down frequently with a lightly oiled cloth, or even better, with a cloth exposed to a good rust preventative like CorrosionX, Hornady One Shot HD-Extreme, or Frog Lube CLP Paste.

The bottom line is it's your gun, your choice. Choose wisely, and please, do regular practice, maintenance, and function checks.
 
Last edited:
Decades ago I got introduced to a lubricant labeled Dri-Slide. It's a moly based dry lube in an evaporating carrier liquid. Goes on wet, dries to a film of lubricant that doesn't attract dust, dirt, unburned powder and stays put. I use it sparingly on the internals. Probably as much for corrosion resistance as lubrication.

You may have to find it in industrial supply stores. I bought a case about ten years ago and gave it as gifts to family members and still have a lifetime supply.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Removing storage oil after 45yrs
2
Replies
21
Views
1K
Bald1
Bald1
dben002
Shooters lube good bad or nothing special
Replies
0
Views
315
dben002
dben002
B
Meet Bob, the 586 (or 7) Pinto
Replies
9
Views
979
-BTM-
B
M
DLC or PVD coating services for S&W revolvers?
Replies
9
Views
620
Rammer Jammer
Rammer Jammer
M
44 cal chamber hone oil?
Replies
10
Views
655
2152hq
2

Latest posts

Back
Top