J. R. WEEMS
Member
Not real fond of varnish on my stocks and really like an oil finish. Anyone here prefer one over the other? Just wondering? 
STOCK FINISH
- Thread starter J. R. WEEMS
- Start date
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Tru-oil is the ticket
There's a lot of options.
First a varnish is a type of finish that can be formulated from an oil or polyurethane, or both. It can vary in viscosity and be as thin as water to make what's called a penetrating or wiping varnish. Add a pigment to it, and it becomes penetrating stain, like Minwax.
After years of using linseed oil formulations, such a Tru-Oil, I've switched to a product from Laurel Mountain Forge called Permalyn.
It's a proprietary blend of oil, urethane and other goodies. It comes in a stock finish and stock sealer versions. The stock sealer is just a water thin version of stock finish, that penetrates into the wood fibers.
I much prefer using the sealer, as it gives you a lot of control on the level of sheen that you want by the number of applications applied. With the urethane in it, once fully dried, it can be buffed up to a gloss if desired. It's very durable and even though it has urethane in it, it doesn't look like it.
I apply enough coats to get a matte sheen. It's easy to work with, but you have to have patience, as is takes more time and effort using the thin sealer as a final finish, applying multiple applications to vary the result and obtain the look that you want.
Product info:
Laurel Mountain Forge
Good info here in the instruction sheet:
Laurel Mountain Forge: Permalyn Sealer Instructions
Pics won't do it justice, this is a grip I refinished with the Permalyn Sealer, and then applied wax.
First a varnish is a type of finish that can be formulated from an oil or polyurethane, or both. It can vary in viscosity and be as thin as water to make what's called a penetrating or wiping varnish. Add a pigment to it, and it becomes penetrating stain, like Minwax.
After years of using linseed oil formulations, such a Tru-Oil, I've switched to a product from Laurel Mountain Forge called Permalyn.
It's a proprietary blend of oil, urethane and other goodies. It comes in a stock finish and stock sealer versions. The stock sealer is just a water thin version of stock finish, that penetrates into the wood fibers.
I much prefer using the sealer, as it gives you a lot of control on the level of sheen that you want by the number of applications applied. With the urethane in it, once fully dried, it can be buffed up to a gloss if desired. It's very durable and even though it has urethane in it, it doesn't look like it.
I apply enough coats to get a matte sheen. It's easy to work with, but you have to have patience, as is takes more time and effort using the thin sealer as a final finish, applying multiple applications to vary the result and obtain the look that you want.
Product info:
Laurel Mountain Forge
Good info here in the instruction sheet:
Laurel Mountain Forge: Permalyn Sealer Instructions
Pics won't do it justice, this is a grip I refinished with the Permalyn Sealer, and then applied wax.
Last edited:
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8 to 10 coats of Tung Oil works beautifully for me! If the finish every gets "tired" just rough it up with some 0000 Steel Wool and add a few more coats - done! You NEVER need to strip it to add additional coats.
NOTE: Tung Oil dries quickly and completely - unlike Linseed Oil which I don't care for.
NOTE: Tung Oil dries quickly and completely - unlike Linseed Oil which I don't care for.
Last edited:
Benchrest1
Member
Tried & True linseed oil.
Oracle
US Veteran
Some decades ago Homer Formby had a show and used Tung oil applied by a bare hand. I started using Tung oil on furniture pieces I made and I still do the same.
I prefer factory finish best from all era’s. I like Tru oil on smooth stocks. I also like the pimped out high gloss poly finish for shooting magnum rounds.The first time I tried a pair I was hooked by the secure grip you get.
Not real fond of varnish on my stocks and really like an oil finish. Anyone here prefer one over the other? Just wondering?
I'm right there with you, J.R.
OP
J. R. WEEMS
Member
Hot boiled linseed and butchers bowling alley wax. Hot oil penetrates better
Most often I stain the sanded wood.
Then sand in a coat of Danish Oil to start filling the pores. 400grit
I don't wipe the build up off, I just let it dry where it is on the wood. In fact the stuff on top of the wood really doesn't dry even after 12 hrs or so. I then rub that further into the pores. It's nearly dry at that point so it really packs itself in there. Dry an other 12 or 24hrs.
Then sand in another coat of the Oil. This time with a 600grit.
Same process. Same drying times or more.
Then another with 800grit.
This one I wipe off gently as the pores are or should be filled.
Let it dry a couple days or more.
If you want a bit of black filler in the pores, it looks especially good in AmWalnut. You can use most any black powdery substance when sanding in a coat of the Oil. Just a very light sprinking of the powder over the surface and it'll work right into the pores for you.
I use black copy toner powder which I believe is some kind of thermo-plastic(?). A pinch should do the entire rifle stock.
Powdered charcoal, carbon powder of some form will work.
Then go back and re-stain usually. Yes oil stain will impart just a bit of tone to the wood even at this point with all the finishing that's been done. Not a lot, but I don't want a lot of color change.
Now you have an in-the wood finish. You can even it up just a bit with with pumice lightly polishing the wood. Or go a little higher polish with Rottenstone powder.
I finish off with an ultra thin coating of artist's linseed oil rubbed out to near nothing on the stock. I use the art supply stuff as it seems to actually dry as opposed to the hardward store big can stuff.
You shouldn't use more than what is wetted onto your thumb after covering the bottle top and tipping it.That amt dotted around on the wood should do it for a coating rubbed out on a rifle stock. Maybe two of those, but not any more.
Hang the stock and let it dry at least a couple days.
Add more coats if you like. After a couple have dried, gently rub down the dried linseed with pumice to even the layer out before adding another.
If you wax the stock,,the next layer(s) of most any finish won't adhere because of the wax.
I also use Shellac quite a bit. It's because it was a common stock finish on older firearms and I use it in the restoration processes.
It can produce a beautiful finish. It is fairly easy to apply and easy to work with.
You can color the shellac itself to 'tone' the finish which is what the older makers and finishers did quite often. That Red Varnished look was often Shellac colored with different agents to get that particular look. Musical instruments got the same treatment quite often.
Shellac was known as a Spirit VArnish. The Spirit is the alcohol in it.
Not a very tough finish by todays standards of epoxy and bullet proof finishes. But it's what's called for on the oldies if you want them to be correct in many instances.
I don't care for TruOil,,never have. But many have good luck with it. I could never get the stuff to dry right except for what was in the bottle and ended up throwing that away.
It's nothing extra special. It's a linseed oil based varnish. Any oil based Varnish needs just that to start with,,an oil.
Linseed is common, So it Tung Oil. Walnut oil, and many other veg based oils are used.
It also contains as do any other varnishes a resin. That's the stuff that actually builds up to a finish.
I think TruOil uses alkyds (sp?) which are usually man-made substances. Nothing wrong with that. In addition they have driers to make the linseed dry because linseed doesn't like to dry.
Then sand in a coat of Danish Oil to start filling the pores. 400grit
I don't wipe the build up off, I just let it dry where it is on the wood. In fact the stuff on top of the wood really doesn't dry even after 12 hrs or so. I then rub that further into the pores. It's nearly dry at that point so it really packs itself in there. Dry an other 12 or 24hrs.
Then sand in another coat of the Oil. This time with a 600grit.
Same process. Same drying times or more.
Then another with 800grit.
This one I wipe off gently as the pores are or should be filled.
Let it dry a couple days or more.
If you want a bit of black filler in the pores, it looks especially good in AmWalnut. You can use most any black powdery substance when sanding in a coat of the Oil. Just a very light sprinking of the powder over the surface and it'll work right into the pores for you.
I use black copy toner powder which I believe is some kind of thermo-plastic(?). A pinch should do the entire rifle stock.
Powdered charcoal, carbon powder of some form will work.
Then go back and re-stain usually. Yes oil stain will impart just a bit of tone to the wood even at this point with all the finishing that's been done. Not a lot, but I don't want a lot of color change.
Now you have an in-the wood finish. You can even it up just a bit with with pumice lightly polishing the wood. Or go a little higher polish with Rottenstone powder.
I finish off with an ultra thin coating of artist's linseed oil rubbed out to near nothing on the stock. I use the art supply stuff as it seems to actually dry as opposed to the hardward store big can stuff.
You shouldn't use more than what is wetted onto your thumb after covering the bottle top and tipping it.That amt dotted around on the wood should do it for a coating rubbed out on a rifle stock. Maybe two of those, but not any more.
Hang the stock and let it dry at least a couple days.
Add more coats if you like. After a couple have dried, gently rub down the dried linseed with pumice to even the layer out before adding another.
If you wax the stock,,the next layer(s) of most any finish won't adhere because of the wax.
I also use Shellac quite a bit. It's because it was a common stock finish on older firearms and I use it in the restoration processes.
It can produce a beautiful finish. It is fairly easy to apply and easy to work with.
You can color the shellac itself to 'tone' the finish which is what the older makers and finishers did quite often. That Red Varnished look was often Shellac colored with different agents to get that particular look. Musical instruments got the same treatment quite often.
Shellac was known as a Spirit VArnish. The Spirit is the alcohol in it.
Not a very tough finish by todays standards of epoxy and bullet proof finishes. But it's what's called for on the oldies if you want them to be correct in many instances.
I don't care for TruOil,,never have. But many have good luck with it. I could never get the stuff to dry right except for what was in the bottle and ended up throwing that away.
It's nothing extra special. It's a linseed oil based varnish. Any oil based Varnish needs just that to start with,,an oil.
Linseed is common, So it Tung Oil. Walnut oil, and many other veg based oils are used.
It also contains as do any other varnishes a resin. That's the stuff that actually builds up to a finish.
I think TruOil uses alkyds (sp?) which are usually man-made substances. Nothing wrong with that. In addition they have driers to make the linseed dry because linseed doesn't like to dry.
Another fine post John.
You are definitely someone I'd be happy having work done by.
You are definitely someone I'd be happy having work done by.
I have used Tru-Oil for several rifles and handgun stocks. After sanding, I hand rub the tru-oil into the wood by dipping my finger in the bottle and puting a couple drops onto the wood and rubbing it in. When fully coated rub out using the heel of my hand, and let dry 24 hours. Lightly rub down with OOOO steel wool then repeat the application of tru-oil and dry cycle for 5-6 coats. After final coat let dry for a full 7 days, then using (originally I used Rotten stone), Mothers Mag polish on a piece of T-shirt material, rub out the finish which will cut the gloss down to a nice soft sheen.
A couple handgun stock examples,
Culina stocks for J frames, ordered unfinished.
A couple handgun stock examples,
Culina stocks for J frames, ordered unfinished.
gwpercle
Member
Minwax Tung Oil Finish.
I like the results better than Tru-Oil and it has plain boiled linseed oil finish beat seven ways to Sunday .
Refinishing a antique golden oak table and chairs with the Tung Oil opened my eyes to what a nice finish this product will give you .
Many thin coats , hand rubbed in but the resulting finish is beautiful and dries well .
Gary
I like the results better than Tru-Oil and it has plain boiled linseed oil finish beat seven ways to Sunday .
Refinishing a antique golden oak table and chairs with the Tung Oil opened my eyes to what a nice finish this product will give you .
Many thin coats , hand rubbed in but the resulting finish is beautiful and dries well .
Gary
fleabus101
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
2152hq
An excellent treatise on wood finishes. A very long time ago I used to help buddys on their gun projects along with my own.
I spent time mixing and concocting in glass bottles the right golden honey hues and honey reddish colors you can more readily get these
days. What tripped me up was my impatience
on getting the slurry worked into the wood and the drying times involved.
One thing that piqued my memory was 2152hqs mentioning using charcoal dust to use as a filler to highlight the grain in the woods for contrasts highlights. That was a bonifide been there done that process on his
experience working to get the result he needs.
Most just dont know the time to produce results that they want and sure dont want to pay
what it really takes to get it. Dont want to wait for it either.
I appreciate 2151hqs brief on whats involved
and why it costs so much for the high-end
beauty in wood the older firearms exhibited
in their craftsmanship yrs ago.
Its just not cost effective for the masses.
Nor do most appreciate.
2152hq thanks for your sharing your knowledge..
Randy..
An excellent treatise on wood finishes. A very long time ago I used to help buddys on their gun projects along with my own.
I spent time mixing and concocting in glass bottles the right golden honey hues and honey reddish colors you can more readily get these
days. What tripped me up was my impatience
on getting the slurry worked into the wood and the drying times involved.
One thing that piqued my memory was 2152hqs mentioning using charcoal dust to use as a filler to highlight the grain in the woods for contrasts highlights. That was a bonifide been there done that process on his
experience working to get the result he needs.
Most just dont know the time to produce results that they want and sure dont want to pay
what it really takes to get it. Dont want to wait for it either.
I appreciate 2151hqs brief on whats involved
and why it costs so much for the high-end
beauty in wood the older firearms exhibited
in their craftsmanship yrs ago.
Its just not cost effective for the masses.
Nor do most appreciate.
2152hq thanks for your sharing your knowledge..
Randy..
fleabus101
SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
While on stock /grip work I'd like to give some
strong praise to Curtis(44magget). I recently bought a set of his terrific Roper style N Frame
grips he crafted. Excellent detail, fit, and finish
workmanship. He also repaired some chipped horns and refinished a set of nonrelieved early 50s era N frame grips for me that I got from George Dye recently. Very reasonable and good communication.
My abilities arent what they use to be so I
highly recommend Curt for your grip work as needed. I'm sure there are probably others so not to slight them just my experience having
wood that needs diligent attention. FWIW.
I really appreciate Curtis's excellent work.
Best Randy..
strong praise to Curtis(44magget). I recently bought a set of his terrific Roper style N Frame
grips he crafted. Excellent detail, fit, and finish
workmanship. He also repaired some chipped horns and refinished a set of nonrelieved early 50s era N frame grips for me that I got from George Dye recently. Very reasonable and good communication.
My abilities arent what they use to be so I
highly recommend Curt for your grip work as needed. I'm sure there are probably others so not to slight them just my experience having
wood that needs diligent attention. FWIW.
I really appreciate Curtis's excellent work.
Best Randy..
I just started to finish a stock yesterday. I use pure Tung oil, many coats and sanding and steel wool. It will take a week or more to get the finish I want, but it is worth it.
