Model 57 trigger binding up

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MT99

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This gun has had this problem as long as I have owned it. It appears to have had very little use. It is extremely clean inside but the transfer bar was not on it's post, so it has been opened before.

More often than not, when pulling the trigger in DA, something binds up when the hammer is maybe 25% cocked. It happens occasionally when cocking the hammer in SA and the hammer can't be pulled back. It will cycle properly if I release the trigger and put a little counter clockwise rotation pressure on the cylinder. I can't feel much, if any, movement in the cylinder but apparently there is enough to free up the mechanism.

Any ideas what would cause this? Thanks
 
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Transfer Bar????? Not in a S&W M57. It sounds like the DA Sear is binding up and was not fit properly. If that is the case, it is an easy quick fix by either S&W or a qualified GS.

Another possibility is that one of the Studs (trigger or hammer) has cracked. Not likely, but possible. If the gun is under S&W's lifetime warranty you can have it fixed free of charge. If it's not, bring it to a qualified GS.
 
Have you checked for excessive end shake in the cylinder? The symptoms you describe could be caused by that condition.

Best of luck finding a resolution to your mechanical problems.
 
Too tight a barrel/cylinder gap can cause this. It doesn’t take much fouling on the face of the cylinder for it to rub against the forcing cone. Unload the gun and look carefully at the face of the cylinder for rub marks in the fouling. The hammer block always jumps out of place when removing the side plate.
 
End shake and barrel/cylinder gap are within spec. It does it with the crane removed and the thumb latch held back.

I could hear something loose in there before I removed the side plate so I was careful to peek inside while lifting the plate. It was definitely out of place.

Hammer block makes more sense in terms of terminology. I guess this factory trained smith is incorrect?
S&W Model 29 Disassembly - YouTube
 
If it happens with the cylinder out and the bolt held back, and it is at 25% of the trigger stroke, it sounds like "stubs".
That is where you have a short sear. The excessive play (take-up) between the trigger bevel and the sear means that the hammer doesn't lift fast enough, and the cam on the trigger "stubs" into the foot of the hammer.
New sear will sort it out
 
Check the hand to make sure it is not binding and check all the internals of the frame for signs of rubbing. My new 19 carry comp's triggervwas leaving a pretty good wear pattern that was causing some binding.
 
How old a M57 is this? Floating firing pin or hammer nose variety?

Dash-5 and -6 are a bit different inside that the earlier series guns.
 
It is an early hammer nose gun.
I might try swapping out the hammer/sear from another gun to rule out the short sear.
 
MT99 said:
This gun has had this problem as long as I have owned it. It appears to have had very little use. It is extremely clean inside but the transfer bar was not on it's post, so it has been opened before.

More often than not, when pulling the trigger in DA, something binds up when the hammer is maybe 25% cocked. It happens occasionally when cocking the hammer in SA and the hammer can't be pulled back. It will cycle properly if I release the trigger and put a little counter clockwise rotation pressure on the cylinder. I can't feel much, if any, movement in the cylinder but apparently there is enough to free up the mechanism.

Any ideas what would cause this? Thanks
Click to expand...

First things first. Have you checked and cleaned under the ejector star? You could possibly have a couple of granules of unburnt powder stuck underneath it.
 
Yes the ejector star is clean. Symptoms are the same with the crane removed and the thumb latch held back.
 
schutz5 said:
Please follow up on the results of your hammer and trigger swap!
Click to expand...

Hammer swap did absolutely nothing.

I checked the trigger stop as was suggested above. The pin was in backwards but changing it around did nothing. I tried removing it and that did absolutely nothing either.

I guess I could try swapping out other parts from another gun???

Any other suggestions?
 
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I went ahead and tried swapping out the hand/trigger assembly as well as the rebound slide assembly. No change...
 
I have a 19 that was binding and I found that the rebound slide spring had several loops taken off to shorten it, after putting in a factory correct spring the binding stopped.I don't know for sure that it was the spring or something that got straightened out when I had the action apart and then put back together.I also changed the cylinder stop spring while I was in there because it looked a little kinked.
 
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