Lube or Leave Action Dry?

Dump1567

Dump1567

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It seems S&W doesn't lube the actions of their revolvers. I just got into a 1996 640-1 and it was dry as could be. It would seem lube would be a good idea for moving parts?

But I could also see lube attracting burnt powder, lint, dust, etc. and gumming-up the action.

What are the Pros & Cons of lubricating the action (internal contact points)?

Thanks.
 
Should you run your car engine dry so it won't attract dust and lint? Should you drag your gun through the sand on the end of a rope? My opinion, YMMV.

Mechanisms need lubrication. The synthetic lubes don't dry out and gum up like the non synthetics. I put one drop on everything that slides or rotates on something else. That's all you need. However, it would not hurt the gun any to have oil dripping out the trigger opening. All that would do is make a big mess.
 
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Dump1567 said:
It seems S&W doesn't lube the actions of their revolvers. I just got into a 1996 640-1 and it was dry as could be. It would seem lube would be a good idea for moving parts?

But I could also see lube attracting burnt powder, lint, dust, etc. and gumming-up the action.

What are the Pros & Cons of lubricating the action (internal contact points)?

Thanks.
Click to expand...




Were did you find these words of wisdom??


Yes, they lube them, very lightly. With a side plate off, a few drops of any gun oil is all it needs,


Lube is towards the end of this video


[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5NAZOr33nUo[/ame]
 
I am trying C3 bike chain lubricant and I like it so far. I cleaned the parts and applied the C3 and wiped it off. When I assembled the gun I put a very tiny drop on the trigger and hammer studs. Seems a tad smoother and the internals are essentially dry. I don't use it on the exterior of the gun as it leaves a film, which is a good thing on the internals.
 
Thanks for the info.

Traditionally when I get a used S&W, I remove the side plate. And most seem bone dry. I add a light oil to the moving parts. But wasn’t sure what S&W did from the factory. I was thinking they left them dry, based on what I’ve seen. Perhaps they just dried out over time.
 
Many of us just can’t resist fiddling with the internals of our guns, or finding somewhere to put the many lubricants marketed for firearms.

I’ve never encountered an unmolested Smith revolver that actually needed the user to add lubricants. I have encountered Smith revolvers that have been gummed up by user applied lubricants.

As in many things, less is often more. If you insist on removing the side plate and adding lubricant, ONE OR TWO DROPS of light machine oil is plenty.
 
Dump1567 said:
It seems S&W doesn't lube the actions of their revolvers. I just got into a 1996 640-1 and it was dry as could be. It would seem lube would be a good idea for moving parts?
Click to expand...

What makes you assume that the factory didn't lube the action 27 years ago when the revolver was shipped? It's not like lube doesn't wear away.

I open every used revolver I buy, give the innards a clean up and light lube.
 
My 27-2 manufactured in 1978 came to me this year unfired and pristine. I opened the side plate and there is still a large amount of grey lubricant remaining so I believe it was shipped from the factory that way.
 
BKLooney said:
Anything with metal-to-metal friction/movement needs lubrication.
Click to expand...

I like that simple response.

Admittedly, I don't take my guns apart very often but if I'm cleaning them they always get lubricated, and if I haven't used one in a while I lubricate it but I just blow Ballistol through it; I figure that gets it done. YMMV
 
Yes, your Model 640-1 should be lubricated and it probably was when it left S&W. Over the past 27 years, any oil applied at the factory could have dried, giving the appearance of no lubrication. Also, if you bought this revolver as a previously owned firearm, the original purchaser may have dunked or sprayed and flushed it with solvent as part of their cleaning ritual.
 
329 said:
My 27-2 manufactured in 1978 came to me this year unfired and pristine. I opened the side plate and there is still a large amount of grey lubricant remaining so I believe it was shipped from the factory that way.
Click to expand...
Gray lube...hmmm. I wonder if there isn't a bunch of metal shavings in the lube, causing it to turn color. If so, it's most likely just wearing/worn in, but I'd clean it up and re-lube it, so if there are shavings, they won't cause any excessive wear.
 
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RemOil is a light non gumming oil with micro-Teflon particals (PTFE) ...
The oil carrier will dissapate leaving a film of micro-Teflon as a dry lube .
Or ... Lube the action with any Dry Lubricant , usually a carrier and Teflon Particles or some other dry lube such as Dry-Moly or Dry-Graphite .

The reason I like RemOil is it has a light oil carrier , a lubricant too , along with the Teflon (PTFE) particles ...two in one lube !

Whatever you do ...use something . Metal rubbing on metal needs some kind of lube , even a dry Lube ... which is probably what S&W uses when they ship revolers out ... it wont go Gummy !
Gary
 
I keep the gun lube (currently Slip2000) in a small needle bottle.

When I lube the internals of a revolver, I just touch the tip of the bottle where I want the oil to go. I use way less than a drop of oil.

If I strip the revolver and clean the internals, I will use a 1" disposable paintbrush with a bit of oil on the bristles to VERY LIGHTLY coat the inside of the frame and sideplate for corrosion protection, then oil the assembled parts as stated above.
 
I've used a graphite grease for many years now, used to use Moly Disulphide. Tried various oils but settled on those two, gunsmith Chip McCormick used to market a graphite grease that he called Trigger Lube. That's how I started using graphite grease, now it's all I use.
 
I am surprised that someone with 2,162 posts is asking about basic gun maintenance.

I once had a new revolver that I got impatient and went to the range without oiling it to shoot it. Well I locked the action up tighter than a drum after shooting just a few rounds. I had a small bottle of CLP in my range bag and a drop on each side of the hammer and trigger quickly freed it up. I put a couple of more drops into the action with the hammer cocked and all was well.

I don’t remove the the sideplate and disassemble the action unless I am trying to correct a specific problem. With the modern lubes we have I don’t see any reason to do so.

What does tick me off is gunowners continuing to use WD-40 on the inside of the action as it will gum things up over time.
 
Most good smiths say grease sliding parts and oil rotating parts. Recently sent a semi-auto to another factory for tune up, it came back dripping oil.
 
First thing I do when I buy a revolver, used or new, is to remove the sideplate, clean, wipe all parts down with an oily rag, and use a little silicone grease on the friction points.
 
Amazingly, S&W addresses lubrication in their owners' manuals. I'd trust them before I'd trust any individual on this website or any other. I know, I know -- this is a radical suggestion, probably offensive to the experts, but it's worth a try...
 
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