• Update – 12:30 PM EST
    Attachments are now working, and all members can once again upload files.
    We are currently testing URL redirects and other miscellaneous features across the site.
    Thank you for your continued patience and support during this migration.

    Prefer a darker look? You can switch between light and dark modes in your account settings:
    smith-wessonforum.com/account/preferences

Cautious about soaking in Ed's Red.

mckenney99

mckenney99

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 19, 2017
Messages
2,460
Reaction score
7,454
Location
OH
I lucked into a very clean, excellent condition M66-3 on consignment this morning at a little hole in the wall local gunshop. You just don't see many desirable used S&W revolvers around here, much less in this condition. This one didn't have the box/papers but appears to have the factory stocks. It wasn't a steal but I felt it was a fair price. The action feels ok but a little stiff and the rotation of the cylinder is smooth but also a little stiff, so I suspect old congealed lube.
Now my concern.This M66 has the plastic red ramp front sight & white outline rear sight leaf. I am reluctant to soak the revolver in a mix of 50/50 ATF/ Acetone, to soak the revovler in, due to my fear of damaging the plastic red insert and white outline. Am I over thinking this or should I use another method to give it a good bath?
 
maxfam said:
I would only soak a wreck in anything. Just remove the grips, loosen the strain screw and remove the side plate. Clean with just about anything, dry and lubricant. Put back together. Clean the barrel and cylinder as normal.
Click to expand...

Agree with this advice. From your description it doesn't sound as if this firearm warrants soaking in anything. You sound very capable of cleaning it well, and very adequately, without a soak in anything.

Bryan
 
Yeah, I wouldn't soak it either for the reasons mentioned above. Just clean carefully and lightly lube.

On the sideplate removal, be careful not to bugger the threads. One of the best investments you can make in this regard is a semi decent gunsmith screwdriver kit. I got a pretty nice one on Amazon that has probably 50 different sized tips as to have the exact width and depth for every screw....i think it was $60 shipped with Prime.
 
I've never had a gun that didn't benefit from a strip down and thorough cleaning and proper lubricating. But only if you know what you are doing. Do not soak it in Ed's Red as the acetone will damage both the insert and probably the white outline blade. Your revolver sounds like it needs a good cleaning and lube if it is not operating smoothly. At the least remove the side plate and get the cylinder off the yoke if your able.
 
I recently heard a you tube “gun guy” talk about cleaning a gun with Ed’s red. “It was all the rage ten or fifteen years ago” he said. From what I’ve read from you guys on this forum, it’s more of a rusty, basket case sort of solution. Am I incorrect here. Anytime you are going to submerge a gun in something, and put a lid on it for a good soaking bath, I’m guessing you are hoping for some serious results.
 
Thanks for the input folks. I have the proper tools and lots of regular gun solvents, patches and q-tips to do a proper cleaning but was hoping to loosen and flush out all the congealed old lube from all the nooks and crannies the easy way. I'm retired and have plenty of free time, so I guess it's going to get an "old school" cleaning.
 
Best advice is to invest in a copy of the Kuhnhausen S&W Revolver Shop manual.
This has full instructions on how to totally disassemble and reassemble the S&W's, and on all pistolsmithing to factory standards.

Use the manual to disassemble it and give it a good non-damaging cleaning and lube.

Also, buy the following Brownell's Magna-Tip gunsmith driver bits. These are the very best drivers available and are the industry standard.
.120-3.....This fits the tiny screw that holds the older rear sight leaf to the frame.
.150-3
.180-3
.210-3.....Fits the dash three front side plate screw.

I also recommend buying a "law enforcement" size driver handle. The shorter handle give much better control then normal large handles.
I have clip retention and magnetic retention.....you will have much use for both.

Best money a S&W owner can spend........
HERITAGE GUN BOOKS S&W REVOLVER SHOP MANUAL- 5TH EDITION

Bits....The very best, buy once cry once. Break one and an email to Brownell's will have them send you a FREE replacement.
BROWNELLS MAGNA-TIP SUPER SET BITS

Law enforcement handles........
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cle...ets/magna-tip--super-set-screwdriver-handles/

OR, just a S&W set of bits and handle......
BROWNELLS S&W LE Screwdriver Set
 
+1 for dfariswheel!

I'm not going to repeat what has already been posted.

1. I also bought the Kunhausen book, plus I ordered Jerry Miculek's DVD from Amazon ("The Complete Revolver Disassembly/Reassembly")

2. If you remove the sideplate, it's under spring tension. Jerry will show you how to safely remove it by tapping the butt of your revolver.

3. I also don't recommend soaking a firearm unless you have to, or to remove rust.

4. BTW, unless Brownell's has changed their policy, since you are a LEO you'll receive a discount on that (essential) screwdriver set.

Cheers!

Bill
 
Last edited:
I'll add this.
For cleaning, in particular this type of cleaning (dirt and dried oils or greases) start with mineral spirits, or kerosene if that's easier. Go with stronger solvents only if needed.
Acetone is very strong. it will damage some paints and plastics. In fact it can be used for chemically melting and joining ABS and some pther plastics.


You were not overthinking this!
 
dfariswheel said:
Best advice is to invest in a copy of the Kuhnhausen S&W Revolver Shop manual.
This has full instructions on how to totally disassemble and reassemble the S&W's, and on all pistolsmithing to factory standards.

Use the manual to disassemble it and give it a good non-damaging cleaning and lube.

Also, buy the following Brownell's Magna-Tip gunsmith driver bits. These are the very best drivers available and are the industry standard.
.120-3.....This fits the tiny screw that holds the older rear sight leaf to the frame.
.150-3
.180-3
.210-3.....Fits the dash three front side plate screw.

I also recommend buying a "law enforcement" size driver handle. The shorter handle give much better control then normal large handles.
I have clip retention and magnetic retention.....you will have much use for both.

Best money a S&W owner can spend........
HERITAGE GUN BOOKS S&W REVOLVER SHOP MANUAL- 5TH EDITION

Bits....The very best, buy once cry once. Break one and an email to Brownell's will have them send you a FREE replacement.
BROWNELLS MAGNA-TIP SUPER SET BITS

Law enforcement handles........
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cle...ets/magna-tip--super-set-screwdriver-handles/

OR, just a S&W set of bits and handle......
BROWNELLS S&W LE Screwdriver Set
Click to expand...

Thanks, I've had a full set of Brownell's bits and all the handles for many years as I did repairs in the shop that I managed. I've also got several of the specialty tools helpful or needed to do the tear down and reassembly. I've been inside Smith's before and just a short time ago I performed a detailed strip and clean on a M649-2 that I got off the big gun auction site and had no issues. I was more concerned about wanting something to soak in/dissolve, flush out the deep down coagulated oil. My other concern was the effects of the ATF/Acetone on the red ramp front sight and I have confirmed that it is a NO GO.
 
You can always just leave the front site out of the liquid, I've done that. You should/can take the rear sight assembly off anyway to clean under it, often there is rust. Contrary to what I'm reading I always give my purchases a bath if for no other reason than to help loosen the screws. You can also leave the acetone out of the mix.
 
Here's my secret for cleaning completely gunked-up revolvers: boiling water and dish detergent. Remove grips and side plate, place gun in a pot of boiling water and a few drops of dish detergent, rinse thoroughly with plain boiling water, oil immediately. Done. No noxious chemicals, no damage to gun.
 
YUP - I agree! If you are gonna do something, do it right! Get Kuhnhausen's book and then you will know how to do the proper job from now on.
 
A long soak with 50-50 Acetone-ATF , a Super penetrating oil , might be hard on the paint in the white outlined sight ... how about a hour or two in the standard recipe of Ed's Red Gun Cleaner , where the acetone is diluted with 3 other ingredients .
Ed's Red Gun Cleaner - equal parts:
Acetone
Mineral Spirits
K-1 Kerosene
ATF - conventional General Motors
Since the acetone is only 25% of the mix ... it's not as damaging to paint , works well as a gun solvent , without eating up paint and plastic ... but limit your soaking... use a toothbrush to scrub away congealed/hardened lube and stop when the action is clean .

I use a lot of Ed's Red Gun Cleaner to clean lube-sizers , presses , dies and guns ... but limit the soaking time because Acetone is known to be hard on paint and plastics .

To be on the safe side ... Omit the Acetone in the recipe ...
a mix of equal parts Mineral Spirits , K-1 Kerosene and ATF makes a good safe cleaner .
Gary
 
Last edited:
I usualy clean old guns that I am restoring or working on in much the same way that Pisgah describes above .

It's been a long time since I've used any chemical soak and then it was just
usually Mineral Spirits for metal parts.
Once in a great while the Lacquer Thinner can comes out, but thats generally for first dunk on very oil soaked wood.

For metal parts, I just use hot tap water, as hot as it decides to be that day, Dish soap, and a toothbrush or two.
A plastic or wooden pic helps with some crevices.
The jet spray of the faucet helps too.

All nice and clean. I pat them down to dry and then set them aside. Any left over water drys off from the heat of the metal from the wash job.

No long soak in nasty chemicals. Most aren't nice to your insides, down right nasty, especially the acetone.
..and you don't smell like you've taken a part time job at the corner Texaco Station.....

I clean the parts the same way again , hot water and dish soap,,before doing a Rust Blue job on them.
 
A water pick that jets highish pressure water jets could nicely penetrate the tight bits.

Very effective and more civilized than dental floss for your teeth too.
 
I've never found a need to soak a gun in anything. Maybe a few internal parts and then only for a short time, maybe thirty minutes. I use kerosene for this.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top