I’ll try to show a couple pics. I bought this perfect, to me, Ruger Security Six, dates back to the 1st ones at ‘72-73. Bought it here on the Forum. Everything was disclosed. He bought it from Bubba who tried to make it a round butt…ground off the heel of the handle. Otherwise a perfect gun…love it.
Okay, so I took it to LGS, he said it would be too expensive to weld it up. So I bought some JB Weld. I’ve been throwing on another layer daily. Has anyone ever done something like this with JBWeld? Also, I mix a tad of black nail polish. That’s why the tad extra hardener. I didn’t use the hypodermic type.

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I have not, but I like your moxie!

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Now go make God proud...

I am a big fan of JB Weld although I've never used it in a gun. I'm curious how it stands up so please let us know after you have fired a few hundred rounds. Hope it works out for you.

Do you have the cut off piece? If you have both pieces I can’t see why it would cost that much with you doing the finishing work. If not I would just use round to square conversion grips

DEFINITION OF THE WORD “IRONY”:
Doing something like this while referring to a previous owner with the term “Bubba”.

Is it OK to say that if I add, “just kidding”?

At least the JB Weld is reversible.

(I second the plainly obvious “round to square” conversion grip recommendation.)

I don't know why It wouldn't work. Especially If you Prepared the frame and roughed it up enough to make sure the JB weld had a place to adhere to. Its a none stressed area. I've also seen where people have whittled a wooden insert where the frame was removed and glued it to one grip and when installed it fills the spot where the frame was modified. When I worked in automotive repair you would be amazed at the repairs we did with JB Weld.
SWCA 892

Just wrap some duct tape over the epoxy and put the grips back on

On a more serious note, from what I see it should be fine, and more importantly, as long as the muzzle is down range when loaded and the hammer back or moving in that direction, not dangerous if it fails

How could a modification of a grip frame, (square to round, round to square,) make it so very dangerous that it that it need’s to be treated like an experiment? What is going to “fail”? Any mod to the frame is still covered by the stocks anyway correct?

Jim

Good for you, Jeff.

I've used JBWeld to reattach a Marlin Model 60 barrel to a "wallered-out" receiver.

I've also used it to make repairs on engine casings.

JBWeld is good stuff, but it can only handle so much load.

I think yours is an excellent and creative way to use the product.

John

I bought an old Colt new service in 38-40 and the little bump that is suppose to hold the cylinder in place while you push out the empties was worn enough so the cylinder would try to come off the crane. I decided to try some JB weld to build up the bump about .075" and dabbed a little paint on it. 500 rounds later and its working fine. If you didn't see me do it you could not tell it had been done.

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My Daddy was a pistol..

I've used JB Weld to make broken Rochester Quadrajet castings functional again, and never had a fuel leak as a result...Your experience may vary......Ben

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Cogito, ergo BOOM!...

JBWeld is a two part epoxy, yes? What is it that makes it different from other 2P glues?

Kevin

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Metallic powder compound would be my guess......Ben

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30 or so years ago my late father was driving through Nevada on his way home from a SC-California-SC round trip when the support bracket for the air conditioning compressor in his pickup broke. He couldn't go on in the desert heat and it was late in the day, so in the next town he came to that had a motel and a Walmart he stopped for the night. The Walmart had JB Weld in stock, so he bought some along with some assorted pipe clamps and under a streetlight after dark he rigged up a repair. He intended to visit a junkyard for a replacement bracket when he got home, but ended up selling the pickup truck he had been driving 8 years later -- with the JB Weld repair still as solid as the day he made it.

I think your repair will hold up...

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Pisgah

I tried it once on a muffler but it burned off and smelled bad.

I’ve used it several times with varying degrees of success. Sometimes I think this is an easy fix and it doesn’t work. Other times you think no way this will work and it does.

I can't tell from the pictures, is the butt just rounded, or was a piece actually missing?

If you are just building out the square, I see no reason the JB wouldn't work. I might prefer Accra Glass gel with the powdered steel mixed in, but that's just me. If you are regluing a missing piece, it probably would still work, maybe need a little creative reinforcing, but as others said it's a low stress area.

I agree, this has been my experience with JB Weld as well. Old time mechanics used to rave about the stuff & how this stuff would save the day. My takeaway from this is like anything else is that a good equal portion mix, and good surface preparation is paramount to the success of a JB Weld repair.

I too am a graduate of the "Rochester 4bbl with stripped threads" school of JB Weld use. To me this sounds like an excellent application of JB Weld....in this case it's really just a space filler.

A couple of suggestions from the Wile E. Coyote School of Gunsmithing:

Be careful of your mixing ratios to ensure that your layers have similar properties.

The addition of the nail polish and extra hardener may change the properties of the final product. Now that you have a good amount on the gun, try to push it around and pull it off. If it's not going to stay in place it would be better to find out now.

Use a bit of sandpaper every once in a while to rough up the surface between coats.

If you end up needing a large blob at the heel, drill one or two very small holes into the blob when it is about halfway formed and fill those holes with the subsequent layers. This forms a peg or pin between the layers.

Don't use a dremel for the final shaping. Surface inconsistencies and differences in hardness can cause the dremel bit to slip and dip, leaving you with the need to add more layers. A large smooth cut file and a light hand are needed. Card the file frequently.

IIRC, there is a bit of a whoop-tee-do in the grip frame between the middle hump and the final flare at the heel. A round file, a light touch, and frequent test fits of your grips will get you through that.

The idea of round to square conversion grips would be a good one if this were a Smith and if the grinding on the frame actually made it the correct dimensions. It appears that the OP is working on a 150 series low-back frame. Finding any grips at all for that frame is a challenge and I have never seen round to square conversions for that one. Speed Six grips might work but again that depends on how well the frame modifications follow the factory dimensions.

An alternate idea if this doesn't work would be to create your own round to square conversion grips that are custom fit to the frame. Coat the frame well with wax or another release agent, lay the frame into one side of the grips and fill in the gap with acraglas or another bedding compound. File smooth, dremel to provide a bit of removal/installation clearance, and do one side at a time.

Perseverance and patience will get you there. All you have to do is fill a gap.....

Sometimes a temporary repair isn't temporary.

In a similar vein, about fifteen years ago I had a drain pipe that was leaking into my garage. I called a plumber but he couldn't come for a couple weeks. So I patched it with something like "FlexSeal" tape. Never called the plumber back and it hasn't dripped since.

I always use the strongest version of JB Weld that comes in the two tubes. One is white and black and the other is white and red. That is their highest strength product and dries to a dark gray color. Like I said above, I use JBW all the time and have never been disappointed!

I use JB weld for a lot of things, has always worked well for me. One instance, about 30 years ago, I had an old Case pocket knife with the yellow plastic(?) handles that had disintegrated. A piece of making tape around one side the knife sticking up about 1/8 inch. Filled the channel with JB Weld, let set, and did the other side. After both sides set, sanded them smooth. Knife still sits on my workbench and is used almost daily.

Also, FYI.....JB Weld will take an alcohol based stain. I have repaired and replaced missing chunks out of rifle and pistol stocks with JB Weld and stained the area to make it blend in.
Recently repaired and stained a set of 1950's Colt Woodsman coltwood plastic grips that had a chunk missing. Used an alcohol based stain (Fiebing's leather dye) red and brown, to get close to the original color.

Also, Fiebing's leather dye works well on wood.

JB Weld is good stuff, I've used it on a number of items and unless the surface is contaminated with water, oil, or corrosion, it typically bonds very well. I once used it to build up a magazine catch in an old Thompson Auto-Ordnance 1911. The hole in receiver had been incorrectly machined and created a sloppy fit with catch and that positioned the magazine just a tiny bit too low in the receiver for reliable feeding. I JB Welded the bottom surface of the catch, which eliminated the slop and slightly lifted the magazine. The JB Weld held up for about 1000 rounds of full power ammo.

I also used JB Weld to attach a piece of metal to a Mauser 98 military trigger to eliminate the first stage of the pull. Also used it to attach a piece of metal to a Ruger MK II target pistol to act as a trigger over-travel stop. Added a bead of JB Weld to the bottom of my M1 Garand stock to tighten up a previous glass bedding job.

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That should work ok, my only suggestion would be to clamp some flat stock on to each side of the frame and apply some mold release to it and slather away and you won’t have much finish shaping to the sides..

I hope we get to see some photos of the finished project !

I built up, shaped with a file, and painted black the front sight over 1/8” on a percussion revolver I shoot and carry a lot. Used J B Weld.
4 years ago.
Still in place.

I think some of it has metal particles in it.

I should have taken a shot of the gun before I started. I thought I already had one. I imagine the completed sale in the Want Ads would show. It was ground off, and not very neatly. As stated above, it's only JB Weld on an area that handles pretty much no stress and it can be removed. One question I have about the cured JB: it still feels almost soft. Maybe the tiny bit of nail polish causes that? I'm really not THAT worried as it's only a filler. I have a picture of it set up on that vise.

JB Weld is plastic, and won't work on an exhaust system, especially near the engine. It has a temp limit.
I used Marine Tex, a similar product, to repair a pin hole leak in my Audi Fox gas tank. It was outside, on the bottom, and was permanent, as long as I had the car.

73,
Rick

I am a big fan of J-B Weld. Learned about something like it when I was in the military. The stuff we used them was called Devcon and we used it for everything. If it is good for a 50 million dollar aircraft....... So J-B Weld is my go to for most small repairs. I probably would not have bothered with a gunsmith. Most are just parts replacers. I would have taken it to a real weld shop or a machine shop for a repair like you are attempting. That said, good luck with your endeavor and keep us posted!

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Many years back (1972 or so) we had a big problem. A pump that was needed for heat was broken with the building supposed to be taken over by the state in a few days, The flange on discharge side of the pump had a nasty cut/slash and leaked big time.

We could not et another pump so we tried that JB. Followed the directions and then gently ground it down, put the pump back together.

Well that did it. I worked in that general area for a few more years and that pump never got replaced. Made a believer out of me!-

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14 S&W Revs none with locks!

I had forgotten that I had used J-B Weld to repair a water pump on a 1976 Jeep Wagoneer that I had. Living in Ca. on the economy as there was no base housing available at the time so money was tight. Found a water leak in my Wagoneer at the water pump. No money for a replacement. 1stSgt. suggested J-B Weld. Removed the water pump and found there was a lot of corrosion in the housing. Coated it on every surface that I could. Let it harden for 24 hours (actually about 36) and put it back on. Drove it another two years and it was still holding when I sold it.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

This is the “forms” I made. I have a much better clamp than the vice grips! I will need to make a vertical piece to build up the heel. Drilling it and inserting something in to act as rebar w a s a good idea. I appreciate the responses, as I never really used JB Weld much. I’ll try to find a couple pics.

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Jeff I’ve read that Pachmayr Grippers grips will fit a low back if you knock out the locator pin. I believe they are also “closed back” so as sort of a last resort if your efforts fail to meet your satisfaction you might try them.
I might have a set. I’ll look and see.

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If it don’t leak is it still a quadrajet?

I used JB Weld about 35 years ago to convert my hydraulic lifters to solids on my '78 Shovelhead, still holding! I've also used Devcon, excellent product.

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I had plenty that came to me leaking, but none that ever came back leaking after an overhaul...Just lucky I guess......Ben

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In 1980 we used Devcon to glue the bases of leveling jacks for a 30’ machine bed at the International machine tool show in Chicago. After the show had to use a forklift to “ break” the bases loose. Problem was it pulled up a 15” Dia. x 8” sections of the concrete floor. Tough stuff.

We used Devcon on the aircraft. Usually we repaired anchor nuts and things like that, it could be drilled and tapped. Once it was on there was no taking it off.

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

As Chief38 said, it's usually best to use the strongest version of JB Weld. It will be in two toothpaste type tubes and the strongest WILL NOT say "Quick". The slow stuff is much stronger. The strong versions really are amazingly strong.

I would think epoxy resin pigment would be much better for adding color.

For your purposes it probably doesn't make any difference.

I didn't notice the different versions of the product, and never thought about pigments until I mixed the first batch. Today I'm going to add the reinforcement on the heel section and maybe mix up some more.
Again, JBWelders United Local 357 comes through again! A happy time as the JBWA the Steamfitters come together on a multi trade job!!
But, can the harder stuff be put over the stuff I have, the 5 Minute stuff that doesn't dry in 5 Minutes. Never mind, I'll try. It can always be removed. "I would think epoxy resin pigment would be much better for adding color." This!!! It would have to be better than adding more chemicals.

Can't vouch for JB Weld, but used AcraGlas to attach a front sight to a Colt Series 70 in .45 over 40 years ago. Have shot many thousands off rounds through it in competition and just plain plinking. Still as solid as the day I did it.

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Where does one get the Devcon stuff?

Kevin

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JB Weld can be some tough stuff and I've used it for many years, looking forward to the finished pics!

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Life Member GOA and NRA

Try here: Devcon Industrial Epoxy Adhesive | Metal Epoxy Filler, Putty, Concrete Sealer

The stuff we used on the aircraft was a two part affair. You mixed it up and used it to hold stuff together. If needed it could be drilled and tapped. The surround metal would fail before the devcon did.

AJ

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

I rigged a piece for the heel build up. Oh yeah, I put a tiny screw in first to kinda keep a grab on that thickest part.
I really like the jay scotts.
I’m getting close to finishing the final (minor) project. Mistakes will be thrown in, too

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Devcon used to be only found in industrial supply houses. We could not core cut holes in the floor of the old Life Magazine building and grout the leveling jacks where the tool show was. Devcon was the only alternative and it worked perfectly. Granted the alignment between chucks of .002 mm could not be held but the machine did mill several crankshafts each day of the show. Tough stuff for sure.

If, and knowing my luck, when the JB fails, it's good to know about Devcon. Thank you.

I used JB weld to fix a Remington 742 that became a single shot. The locking lugs on the bolt cut into a rail in the receiver. The JB weld was fine for at least a box of ammo, before I traded it for a Knight MK85. Told the guy about the fix. He had no problem with it. I still use the Knight. Don't know about his luck. The JB weld did better than I expected. The 742 was a 30-06, so it stood up to some abuse.

"Tougher than woodpecker lips" !

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