I have a model 60 that has a thin/serrated trigger and I want to put a wide/smooth trigger on it. The only trigger I could find online was a "stripped" trigger which means it does not have a hand spring or the pin that holds the hand spring in.

Obviously I could take the hand spring and pin from the thin/serrated trigger and move it to the smooth trigger, but I have never done this particular thing before and I have some questions.

1. The pins on the triggers appear to be straight solid pins. I tried tapping them out gently and they don't move. So first question is ... can you tap them out with a proper hammer and punch? Or are they "pressed" in with some kind of machine at the factory making them basically permanent? In that case would I destroy them trying to remove them?

2. If I can punch them out, will they be permanently damaged? Are they single use and require a new fresh pin each time? Does anyone know what size pin that is so I can try to buy one?

3. Can I use a roll pin instead? If I can't use the one from the old trigger because I'll ruin it or it won't come out, and I can't find a new one online, then would it be acceptable to use a roll pin? All it does is hold the spring in place?

All thoughts are greatly appreciated.

The pins should be easy to remove. A bench block to support the trigger makes it a lot easier. The pins are solid and straight. They go in/out either way and should last the life of the gun unless lost. What size punch are you using/ It should be no larger that .050". There is no reason to even think about roll pins, they are not necessary as the pin cannot move once the gun is assembled.

If you need any parts for a S&W simply call S&W Customer Service and tell them what you need. They will want the model and serial number of the gun to assure you get the right thing. They charge less than any retail seller, very often they will send you minor parts like the pins free! They also do not charge shipping as everyone else does!

The phone is 800-331-0852.

Always check with S&W first before looking on-line, where do you think those other sellers get their parts? From S&W!

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Gunsmithing since 1961

i HAVE REMOVED THEM WITH A PIN PUNCH {MADE FROM A DENTIST PICK }GOTTEN FROM A DENTIST ,NOT THE CHEEP ONES FROM HARBOR FREIGHT] they are STRAIGHT PINS

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age is just a number

Hockey pucks, with some small holes drilled in them, work well for support while removing pins. One with a groove in it, set up for barrel pins and the under lug pin, is also good to have. With most punch sets the smallest punch is 1/16" which is .0625 and 2 big for S&W pins. You can make them smaller by running against a diamond stone or file while chucked in a drill. You really should have 1 with about a 1/4" long end to start the pin then a longer one to finish removing. A small hammer with a flat face. You want to focus on the punch tip and the pin and be able to give the punch a sharp rap without looking at the punch and hammer.

Thanks all. I have a good set of tools and bench blocks as I have done some stuff on other things. I just have never done anything on a S&W trigger before so I wanted to make sure that these pins can come out before I go whacking away only to find out that "everyone knows" you're not supposed to remove them.

I'll call S&W and see if I can get the right pin before attempting. Thank you.

Bench Blocks for your Smithin' needs are essential! Both steel and a hard rubber or plastic version are both utilized depending on what you are doing to a gun. Without the use of a bench block your hammer force is absorbed by the workbench top and the full energy is not delivered through the punch to remove pin.

A Hockey Puck makes a great Bench Block when a few holes and cutouts are made in it. The one below is an example of the bunch of them I have made over the years. As you can see - it is well used. The steel block is a Starrett that belonged to my Grandfather. BTW, the "V" groove in the center is great for round stock that have pins to be taken in or out.

Attached Images

IMG_6503.jpg (43.4 KB, 22 views)

At the S&W factory, at least they did when I was there in armorer school, pins, etc. are installed from right to left, uninstalled from left to right.
This orientation is determined with the barrel pointed straight away (perpendicular) from you

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Retired LEO, FI, S&W Armorer

I have a block of brass with holes in it. Piece of steel match drilled that clamp onto the top strap with brass shims. Being able to firmly support and position your work is very important and for more reasons than just pins

Very helpful. Thank you.
Tools I have plenty of. Blocks and punches galore, and they are all well used. What I lack is knowledge of this particular thing. Never did it or even seen it done. No one I know has ever done it either. Can't find any videos or even text posts of people doing it. I guess it's just not something that is done much, anymore.

I've swapped pins from hammers and triggers many times over the years.

You're making me feel old!

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

I got this one from Brownells several years ago and it wasn't very much. Has been a great help working on guns, and won't scratch them.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Hockey pucks make great bench blocks too.





Carter

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

When you're driving pins in and out, a hard steel block is the best. The softer ones absorb some of the hammer impact, rather than transferring all the blow to the pin.

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protocalldesign.com

A steel block is one block I don't have. I have all sots of bench blocks of various sizes and shapes but none of steel. That might actually be a good thing to have for exactly this since I don't have to worry that much about scratching the trigger.
What I needed to know was that it was OK to knock out these pins and that has been confirmed in here.