Just picked up a 629-5 or 6 (can't tell) Mountain Backer. The trigger is slicker than snot already. Reminds me of an early Python. Any way, my Jerry K. manual seems to be pre-MIM and I'm looking for tips on lubrication for this thing. I already smoothed out the rebound slide and the inside of the frame where it slides. It did not need much.

Also, the hammer spring has this bend at the top which I'm not used to seeing. All my guns are older. Is this normal for this vintage?

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A very small amount of light synthetic oil at the contact points is what I would recommend.

Looks like an aftermarket mainspring to me. Can't be sure looking at a photo.


Carter

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Ret. LE, FA Instr, S&W Armorer

That is a Wilson mainspring. That is my first choice for an aftermarket one. I like the original tapered S&W ones the best, but for a spring kit, the Wilson gives the best results.

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protocalldesign.com

Thanks for the lube advice and IDing that mainspring. I thought someone had been into this one. It is sooo smooth. I just hope I don't get any light strike with that spring. We shall see.

I’ve had good luck with Wilson combat springs in my revolvers- as long as the main spring screw is tight, I’ve never had light primer strikes- even with CcI primers

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Guns + Dogs= Bliss

If you're concerned about light strikes, you might want to look at the end of the strain screw to see if it was ground down. Some folks backed out the strain screw to lighten the pull. Others shortened it to do the same thing, but be tightened down. You wouldn't know unless you looked at the end of the screw.

Lubrication brands are very much a personal thing. My current favorite is G96 Synthetic CLP (yellow colored bottle) and find it actually outperforms the old standby Breakfree CLP. The main difference to me is that the G96 seems to clean a bit better - however the lubrication and rust protection are pretty much equal.

The key is to never over lubricate a revolver! Less is more and a little goes a long way. Over oiling will pick up debris, dust, unburned powder residue and the cruded up oil then becomes an abrasive. A small drop on pivot points works quite well. After cleaning the disassembled gun, use a patch to apply a small amount of lube to the inside of the frame, then wipe off the excess - leaving an invisible thin film behind. That's about it.