1911 ejector removing

[CaptJack1]

after taking out the ejector roll pin cannot remove the ejector
first time removing a ejector, dont want to break the ejector legs.
appreciate suggestions on removing
thanks
Jack

[stansdds]

A properly fitted ejector should be a little snug in the receiver. Couple that with some gun shot residue and it can get a little difficult to remove. Some ejectors are also placed with Locktite on them, often as a means to prevent any movement. Not knowing whether this is a factory fit or an aftermarket ejector makes it difficult to know what is actually holding the ejector into the receiver. Also, why are you even removing the ejector? Unless you are refinishing the receiver or there is a problem with the ejector, there is no reason to remove it.

[WR Moore]

What he said above. A lot of after market ejectors have a sort of channel between the legs to allow prying to remove. If you just gotta, soak the ejector in Kroil or PB parts Blaster for awhile first. I dimly remember one stubborn ejector and can't recall how I got it out beyond the soaking.

If you're attempting to remove a stock ejector to fit one with an extended nose, don't bother. While it's tacticool, it's really not needed and can interfere with ejecting a live round. If you're trying to replace a long nose ejector, it's easier to file the ejector to the original form.

BTW, if you install a new one, you'll need to drill the leg divot for the pin. You do that from the opposite side so the drill rotation pulls the ejector down tight against the frame.

[45Smashemflat]

The method I’ve used (after soaking well) was to clamp the ejector in a vise and pull up on the frame.

[CaptJack1]

I do appreciate all the comments all of which I’m very familiar with, the 1911 I’m trying to remove the ejector from is a brand new never fired Tisas 45. I am converting to 9 mm so I need to install a 9 mm ejector.

Again in my original post, I’m just looking for suggestions how to remove the ejector without causing any damage to the ejector, legs which I understand can break if not done properly.

Thanks
Jack

[Mercury]

As Stansdds said, some are locktited in. If so, applying some heat may loosen it up.

I had grips screws on a 1911 that a previous user had used red Locktite on and they released when using a soldering iron. IIRC, it took about 2-3 minutes before each got hot enough.
YMMV

[dfariswheel]

As above, apply Kroil and let soak a few hours or overnight.
Apply moderate heat to melt any loctite. This doesn't mean red hot.

Put the ejector in the jaws of a padded vise and tighten tightly.
Pull the frame STRAIGHT up.
VERY gently rocking SLIGHTLY side to side and front to back may help.

Approach all this slowly, since rushing can break a ejector lug off.

[WR Moore]

After reading some of the other suggestions and some thought.....what I may have done is to use vise grips on the ejector and the pry up with a screwdriver on the nose of the jaw. Or, ejector in the milling vise and again, pry carefully upward. Should you put the frame in a vise, put a mag well filler in first.

A few careful taps on the ejector may help.

[CaptJack1]

more really good Suggestions thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
capt jack

[WR Moore]

A memory from back in the last century crept up. A friend claimed to have dropped a 9 mm upper (or .38 Super????) on a .45 frame and it worked. I never knew him to tell tales, so it might be worth a try-as a range toy. Not likely I'd bet my butt on it. If you do try it, let us know if it worked.

IIRC, the subject came up when someone mentioned he'd like to be able to shoot 9mm/.38 Super/.45 using one frame. I noted that'd (per the parts book) require an ejector change to the frame and machining the .45 slide to accept the 9 mm ejector.

[CaptJack1]

i have a complete 9mm slide, fist thing i did was put it on my 45 frame. Fits fine except the ejector stops the slide …. 9mm ejector replacement will solve that, if i can get the 45 ejector out.

[stansdds]

Ehhhhh... converting a 1911 receiver made for 45 ACP may or may not work in 9mm or 38 Super or even 10mm Auto. The 45 ACP feed ramp in the receiver is not always milled at an angle that works with the smaller diameter calibers. This is not an issue for 1911 receivers that are milled for a barrel that has an integral feed ramp.

[CaptJack1]

FYI..
. Using vise grips on the ejector prying gently under the vise grips back and forth I was able to remove the ejector thanks to all for the constructive comments I learned a lot

[Bruce51]

Originally Posted by stansdds

Ehhhhh... converting a 1911 receiver made for 45 ACP may or may not work in 9mm or 38 Super or even 10mm Auto. The 45 ACP feed ramp in the receiver is not always milled at an angle that works with the smaller diameter calibers. This is not an issue for 1911 receivers that are milled for a barrel that has an integral feed ramp.

I had no problems putting a 9mm Colt conversion slide on an 80's series frame.
Had to change the ejector but it was not difficult. The most work was tuning the extractor to hold the 9mm case.

I'm using Kimber 9mm magazines. They are real good quality as compared to Springfield magazines. Haven't used the Colt magazines so no knowledge to offer.

Bruce

[DWalt]

Originally Posted by WR Moore

A memory from back in the last century crept up. A friend claimed to have dropped a 9 mm upper (or .38 Super????) on a .45 frame and it worked. I never knew him to tell tales, so it might be worth a try-as a range toy. Not likely I'd bet my butt on it. If you do try it, let us know if it worked.

IIRC, the subject came up when someone mentioned he'd like to be able to shoot 9mm/.38 Super/.45 using one frame. I noted that'd (per the parts book) require an ejector change to the frame and machining the .45 slide to accept the 9 mm ejector.

That is what I have. A .45 Colt frame with a .45 slide and a .38 Super/9mm slide (plus of course barrels and magazines). The ejectors must match the slides. I would never machine a slide in order to use the same ejector for both slides. Makes little sense as ejectors are so easily swapped out. Never had any problem in switching ejectors, maybe a 30 second job on my Colt frame. My guess is that Tisas may have used loctite, super glue or whatever else is available in Turkey to keep the ejector in place. Why, I can't say, as nothing like that is needed. I would try clamping the ejector in a vise and using heat. I doubt soaking in solvent will do anything to help. Heat and prying will probably do the job.