So I decided to do the lock delete option using the Original Precision kit.
My first experience taking the side plates off a S&W.
I believe I got every thing back in its proper place.
Left the locking Flag(?) out.
Went to the range and over 75% off 4 different loads failed to fire.
Seems to be a light primer strike issue.
What did I do wrong or is it just a weak spring that decided to rear its head.
Only about 500 rounds through the revolver since I bought it.
It was bone stock before I got into it.

First thing to check is the strain screw. Is it tight?

If it worked before and doesn't work now it is almost certainly something you did or didn't do with the lock delete. I have done it to a couple of my revolvers and I took ALL of the irritating parts out. It was a little harder to do but I have had zero problems since. (It is of course also possible you did something wrong with the reassembly having nothing to do with the lock delete. Did you tighten the hammer spring strain screw all the way down?)

Which revolver model? I have the lock delete in two - my 637-2 and my 617-6. I found that because the frame slot is widened to accept the lock plate, the hammer would drift slightly when cycled, rubbing the upper edge of the frame to the left of the firing pin. I left the plate in, the slot is the same width all the way down the frame, and no drag, therefore no misfires.

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Heavily armed old man.

As far as I know every thing was put back in the way it was except the lock plug and lock plate.Wasnt sure if the lock plate was needed so I left it out.
The screw was tightened all the way.

OOPs.
Forgot.
M 69 4.25" 44 Mag.

Is the transfer bar (hammer block) in correctly, damaged? Most likely the side plate would not go back on if so but could be checked. Any chance foreign material got into/around the firing pin area?

When you refer to the "flag", do you mean the small flat piece the sits flush with the top of the frame next to the hammer? If so, it might be giving the hammer enough wobble room to not hit as hard, or maybe off center a bit. Although, I'd think that it would be pretty tight on the hammer stud though. Just a WAG...

Will be digging back into it today.
Thanks for the ideas of what to look for.
Is it normal to leave the lock plate off ?

The instructional videos show the lock plate being left off. I would say that 99% of the time that is fine. There is a disclaimer message on the website that mentions that there are occasional S&W's leaving the factory with rough milling inside the frame, which can change the way the hammer interacts with the trigger. Also, my own observations are that not all MIM parts are equal, dimensions or finish. I had problems with my 617 hanging up or soft-striking after I installed the Lock Delete. I spent a while slowly dry-firing SA and DA, and noticed the hammer was moving slightly at times. I left the Lock Delete in, reinserted the lock plate to take up the gap, and now 100% reliability, SA and DA. Probably 2,000 rounds since, and other than cleaning and light lube, never needed adjustments. I later bought the Lock Delete for my 637 and left the plate in just in case. Zero problems.

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Heavily armed old man.

Leave the flag.......Just grind the nub off........Works perfectly..........Instant no cost lock delete.

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S&W Accumulator

Good news.
Made it back to the range today.All is well now.
The four loads I was having misfires with all fired.
Seems the screw at the bottom of the spring was Not tightened down till it bottomed.
Thought it was tight enough.
Learned something new.
Thanks for the helpful hints.
Was just operator error.

Glad you figured it out.

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Heavily armed old man.