First thank you for any help offered. I have a 13-3. 4 inch. I have noticed sometimes the cylinder is a bit sticky to close. The yoke seems straight. The ejector rod itself is straight. I put it in my drill press and ran a dial gauge on it to measure if it was bent. Timing is spot on. I have noticed if I put a drop of oil on the end of the rod and the locking lug it will slide right shut with no resistance. Before I attempt anything I figure I better ask. I was thinking of very fine sand paper and lightly polish the locking lug or extractor rod end just to make sure they are smooth. I don’t really see any burrs on either part. Maybe I’m just too picky. It seems perfect otherwise. And it does close. Opens fine. Just the last little bit seems stiffer than my other hand ejectors. Thanks again

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No gold. Only lead. Bobby

Sometimes the small pin in the locking lug sticks if it is not oiled periodically. I would not start removing metal if I were you.

Sounds good to me. Kinda what I was thinking. I’ll just leave it be. I might just scrub and clean the pin real good with some hoppes and brush. Maybe just a bit dirty in there around the pin. Thank you. Greatly appreciated

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No gold. Only lead. Bobby

Have you checked the EXTRACTOR ROD to be sure it is tight? If it unscrews even slightly it can cause this problem. If the extractor rod has been replaced and not properly fit the same thing can happen, along with the cylinder being hard to open. If there is really a problem with the locking bolt that is easy to check, simply push on it with your finger, is it moves smoothly that isn't an issue! A drop of oil and then "exercise" the locking bolt with your finger should be all it takes.

And, BTW, the part you refer to is called the "locking bolt".

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Gunsmithing since 1961

You might also check the length of the center pin v the extractor rod. Pull the cylinder and press the breech end of the center pin flush with the ratchet. Now, look at the end of the extractor rod. The center pin should be at least flush if not 0.005 in proud of the extractor rod. If not, some very careful filing is in order. Make sure the end is square also.

The locking bolt is also supposed to have a slight flat on the pointy end to bridge the distance from the center pin to the edge of the taper in the bore of the extractor rod. Very careful filing is your friend here too.

Ah, just noticed the sticky is when closing. There should be a slight chamfer on the OD of the end of the extractor rod. This mates with the ramp on the locking bolt and helps it cam back into the lug. Make sure the ramp on the locking bolt goes back far enough to contact the end of the extractor rod.

Spray out the lug (locking bolt) itself with brake cleaner while working it. Then put a tiny drop of oil on it so it goes inside the lug hole. I have run across sticky lugs.
Your rod or the tip of the center pin might also be a bit long. Then end can be filed a bit shorter, The end of the center pin sticking out of the rod a bit to much when the ratchet end is pressed flush can cause this.

The locking bolt, the center pin and the rod are all fitted parts and sometimes take a little adjustment to mess exactly right.

I run into this quite a bit changing barrels and cylinders

After a day of shooting Mag. loads of .357 in my S&W 686 4" the cylinder became sticky, hard to open and close. The gun was getting dirty and warm, I was using H110, HS6, TCM and Enforcer. While cleaning the gun the cylinder would not go into battery, she would not close. I cleaned and oiled no help. Removed the crane and cylinder and found that the extractor rod had come loose, it doesn't take much to put everything out of alinement . Tighten her up go to go!