Any body use or try teflon dry lube spray in the action of their revolver?
I wonder if it would be a useful aid in keeping the insides from gumming up
and not collecting grit.

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age is just a number

For various reasons, dry lubes just don't work well in most firearms applications.
It's noted that the US military will not allow any dry lubes on firearms, as far as I've ever heard due to reliability issues
It just seems that liquid lubes work better.
One that was highly touted for years was "Dri-Slide" molybdenum.
I experimented with it and found it just didn't work as well as a liquid lube.

After much experimenting on customer and personal guns, I found that CLP Breakfree was best in AR rifles, and as a rust prevention coating inside most guns.
In pistols, especially revolvers Super-Lube oil and grease worked better then anything.

Super-Lube oil is a thick oil-thin grease consistency that stays put, never dries out, evaporates, runs off, or just disappears.
I've opened customer revolvers as much as 10years after servicing to find the Super-Lube still there and working.
For key areas like hammer and trigger interfaces I used Super-Lube grease.

Both are full synthetic, clear-white Teflon lubes good from -45 to +450.
You can buy small needle oilers and tubes of grease locally, or order online.
Everyone has their favorite lubricant, but I found it to work best in customer guns as well as my own........

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Over the last 50 years, Teflon has become known as a major carcinogen and has been removed from products. Yes, it had great non stick properties, great lubricity & many uses, but is also responsible for many cancer deaths. The class action law suit is now well over 10+ Billion dollars and growing!

That said, I'd not be seeking out any products containing Teflon! I actually had some gun oil containing Teflon, (Remoil & Birchwood Casey Synthetic) that I tossed a few years back. I know BC removed the Teflon years ago and I know Remoil was supposed to as well, but they might be dragging their feet.

I have not really performed any carefully recorded tests, but I have been using RIG +P Stainless Steel lube internally on S&W and Colt revolvers for over three decades. I have had most of those revolvers apart again at least once or twice, and I have not seen any evidence of gumming or attracting crud that I recall.

I use very little, applied by greasy finger and thumb, usually supplemented with a little oil, applied the same way, in places where high-pressure grease is not needed.

I do not pocket carry without a holster. If I did, I would probably open up my S&W J frames and Colt D frames more often.

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Formerly Model520Fan

All I do is a light application of G96 Synthetic (my current go-to) on the inside of the unassembled frame. Then I wipe it almost dry with a cotton patch leaving a slight residue coating. As I reassemble the revolver, part by part, I put a tiny needle drop of lube on each one the moving parts. That is it for me. The whole process takes me about 30-45 minutes including the barrel and cylinders.

On revolvers that get shot very often I will completely take it down every few years or as required and repeat the process. On revolvers that rarely get shot - maybe once every 7-8 years.

Funny, I've been a faithful user of Dri-Slide since the late 1960's with outstanding results. When the carrier fluid evaporates, it leaves the dry film. Unlike wet lubes, it doesn't seem to gather particulates and is water resistant.