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S&W-Smithing Maintenance, Repair, and Enhancement of Smith & Wesson and Other Firearms.


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  #1  
Old 01-31-2009, 07:29 PM
mzimmers mzimmers is offline
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cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open  
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Hi -

I noticed that the cylinder on my 686 was a bit stiff to open and close. On a hunch, I loosened the side plate screw that also keeps the crane (I think that's the right term) in place, and it's much better.

I didn't realize you could overtighten these screws. I'm not a gorilla with my handgun screws, but...should I back off? Or, would it be better to take a little off the screw so it doesn't bind?

Thanks...
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Old 01-31-2009, 07:29 PM
mzimmers mzimmers is offline
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cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open  
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Hi -

I noticed that the cylinder on my 686 was a bit stiff to open and close. On a hunch, I loosened the side plate screw that also keeps the crane (I think that's the right term) in place, and it's much better.

I didn't realize you could overtighten these screws. I'm not a gorilla with my handgun screws, but...should I back off? Or, would it be better to take a little off the screw so it doesn't bind?

Thanks...
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  #3  
Old 01-31-2009, 08:24 PM
Joni_Lynn Joni_Lynn is offline
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cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open  
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If the screw has a flat tip it may have been switched with one of the others which wouldn't be fit correctly. If it has the pointed and spring loaded tip then I suggest a bit of lube and then snug it up.
Also check the extractor rod to be certain it's snug as well.
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  #4  
Old 01-31-2009, 08:57 PM
mzimmers mzimmers is offline
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cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open  
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It's definitely the right screw; on this gun, it's the only one of its size.

And yes, it's pointed, but I don't think the tip is spring-loaded. Perhaps it is, though, and that's the problem; maybe it got crudded up. I'll take a closer look tomorrow; thanks.
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Old 02-01-2009, 04:34 AM
pownal55 pownal55 is offline
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most will say keep it tight. i find if you back it off an eighth of a turn or so, it opens smoothly. never had one come loose or fall out.
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  #6  
Old 02-01-2009, 08:36 AM
S&W revolverman S&W revolverman is offline
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Keep all screws tight. If a gun will not work properly with all the screws tight, then there is something wrong somewhere.

Hope this helps
chris
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  #7  
Old 02-01-2009, 05:10 PM
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cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open  
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Quote:
Originally posted by pownal55:
most will say keep it tight. i find if you back it off an eighth of a turn or so, it opens smoothly. never had one come loose or fall out.
I've had them come loose at the most inopertune time, the middle of a match when I need a reload. Open the cylinder, point the gun down and put the speedloader in and the cylinder falls to the ground.

Now I make sure screws are tight. I don't over crank but I know they won't be even 1/8th turn loose.
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Old 02-01-2009, 06:12 PM
tomhaka tomhaka is offline
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I've had that screw in and out several times now for cleaning and such. It is spring loaded and I am quite sure it needs to be tightened, and the spring will do it's job. Like someone mentioned, check the front and rear of the ejector bearings.
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Old 02-01-2009, 07:09 PM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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There is some drag, that's how it works. The yoke screw is one you screw in tight and use blue (242) LocTite on or you'll go to reload and get embarressed because your cylinder and yoke assy is laying on the ground.

Edit: All the side plate screws need to be run in tight. The yoke screw seems to be the one most likely to come loose and most needs LocTite.
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  #10  
Old 02-02-2009, 05:26 AM
pownal55 pownal55 is offline
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i am strictly a recreational shooter, and speak on personal experience. those that shoot competition, thousands of rounds per year, are better qualified to answer such questions. sorry if i misled you.
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  #11  
Old 02-02-2009, 08:50 AM
mzimmers mzimmers is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by pownal55:
i am strictly a recreational shooter, and speak on personal experience. those that shoot competition, thousands of rounds per year, are better qualified to answer such questions. sorry if i misled you.
No sweat. Part of the value of this forum is collecting information from a variety of perspectives. Like you, I'm a recreational shooter. I do think, though, that I'm going to keep mine tight, and try to solve the problem through lubrication.

Thanks for your input.
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  #12  
Old 02-02-2009, 11:38 AM
tomcatt51 tomcatt51 is offline
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The sideplate is actually a structural part of the frame. The screws should be kept tight for that reason. Leave them loose and after a while you'll find your tightly fitted sideplate isn't tightly fitted anymore.
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  #13  
Old 05-04-2016, 10:01 PM
OldChief OldChief is offline
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cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open cylinder a bit stiff to open  
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It may be a simple fix, try tightening your extractor rod.
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2016, 10:05 PM
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I agree with the extractor rod suggestion. I always check it when cleaning the weapon.
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  #15  
Old 05-08-2016, 09:56 AM
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if the gun is fairly "new" many times the stainless guns need to be 'deburred' nature of the beast, may be the screw is a bit too fat and dragging in the lower crane leg 'groove'. again, fit to work....often the ejector rod may be a tad long for the center pin, they should be "flush when the center pin if pushed forward, to allow to clear the bolt, also a sharp inner edge of the end of the ejector rod can cause drag...all things a good smith looks at in the finakl fit and function.....yes, proper lube also...........
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