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06-09-2009, 01:01 AM
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Can we have an official Polishing thread?
One thing that seems to be very common here is how people polish their revolvers. Now some like the high polish look while others like the matte polished look.
Can we discuss exactly how to get a high polish versus a matte polished look? Perhaps also discuss what type of compounds or media used?
I've done a search which turns up lots of pictures but not so much on actual technique.
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06-09-2009, 01:40 AM
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Basically, there's not much to talk about if we create this thread.
For do-it-yourselfer's, we use Flitz or Mother's Mag Polish on factory stainless finishes to get them to a high polish, almost "bumper chrome" look.
Then for those who want to reverse the high polish back to factory, we use 3M scotch-brite pads.
If one wants to go matte or glass bead stainless then that should best left to a professional shop.
For blued guns, there is not a whole lot for the DIY to do. Because odds are the finish will be ruined. For high polished blue, that all begins at the factory. If the DIY wants to duplicate this, good luck because most likely you'll ruin the finish. (A DIY high polish blue that rivals the factory finish is like the Holy Grail.) The only thing a DIY can do is to polish the existing blued finish with Renaissance Wax or a Carnauba car wax.
If you want to matte the blued finish, this is also best left to a professional shop.
Why? Because of the expense and trouble one goes to obtain a blasting booth, the media needed, the stripping of the frame, the masking of certain areas, the extensive cleaning afterwards to remove every piece of grit. And then one has to have the apparatus and chemicals to HOT re-blue the gun.
Notice I said HOT, there is no magic COLD re-blue out there.
Cold blue formulas are for small touch-up jobs only.
I forgot for those that like the matte black finish there is always the DIY parkerizing kit or the spray on, bake in the oven finish. Knock yourself out! But I like to call this "Bubba" or garage gunsmithing.
Last edited by Katy; 06-09-2009 at 01:58 AM.
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06-09-2009, 11:20 AM
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Just for Katy's pleasure, here is one I prepped for finish, then sent it to Ford's.
YES, I polished (greased 600g belt) then masked up (which is'nt hard), 320 glass beaded the rounds and small parts. Sent it to Ford's with the instructions of hard chrome slide and frame, black nickle everything else. Only cost me 240$.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...100_1502-1.jpg
And I built the gun myself, but don't tell any wannabe do it your selfers out there.
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06-09-2009, 12:01 PM
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I went to Ford's website and found the cost of hardchroming the ENTIRE gun in the stainless effect costs $250. For another $45 they would do the ENTIRE gun in high polish hardchrome. The prep work that you did yourself is included in their price.
I'm sure they would not have charged anything extra to glass bead the rounds as this is pretty standard. And yes, I have used Ford's many times for complete guns.
So other than doing black nickle on your small parts, your $240 shows very little saved compared to the sending off the gun, with a check for $250+ and your instructions.
Other than the self satisfaction of prepping the gun that Ford would have done for you anyway.
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06-09-2009, 12:32 PM
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How about adding 15$ a peice for each small part(theres 11 of them).
I talked with Ford's and got a qoute of 400$ plus. You really think if I was only going to save 25$ I would have done all the work. I'm sure it would have cost me less yet if I just had them do all the small parts in HC.
Think a little, and for that matter, don't try to discourage people who want to try things for themselves. As long as they are aware of conseqeuntial F-ups.
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06-09-2009, 12:34 PM
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OH,
And then theres the three week turn a round time instead of the 6mnth backlog they currently have.
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06-09-2009, 02:58 PM
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Yes, you are correct. Adding $15 apiece to black nickle 11 small parts adds to the increasing cost.
But most people would have settled to just HC everything and be done with it.
I had Ford's HC a Model 1911 type pistol and it turned out very nice like yours, but again it only cost me $250.
And I was lucky it only took 3 months.
I think what Katy was referring to was DIY prep for revolvers.
As you know revolvers are much more difficult because of the complex curves, roll marks, lettering, screwholes that one has to becareful of not ruining.
I find prepping a 1911 style pistol much easier for DYI. Why do you think thay call it
"ol' slabsides" ? LOL
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06-09-2009, 05:16 PM
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Which kind of Scotch Bright pad- the course green ones?
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06-09-2009, 05:37 PM
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there are different "results" with the various Scotch-Brite pads...I would "practice' ( try) different ones on different spots of any given gun...yes, for the most part, even the rough green or red ones, once they are "worn in" and you use a 'light' touch, can add or take away from the desired results.............fresh pads, very aggressive....worn, pads, takes a bit MORE rubbing and pressure...but I like the worn pads for the "last" wipe before they go off to the tanks.........there are even "white" pads that are recommended for stainless?? we used to use these but the others do the job for us, but then again ,we have been refinishing guns since the early 70's and have developed the proper touch after all this time..........
Katys' post tells it pretty much as it is..........it all depends on just what YOU want......if you are a "noob" then stay away from any and all power equipment.....
I want to add ,same goes for "sand blast" or glass bead blast....takes time and practice, and with various 'media' and different pressures, the same thing, you can attain lots of different end results....new vs. used, and sand vs. glass.......
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dan
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06-13-2009, 01:41 AM
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Get some stainless steel table knives from Goodwill and try the different grits and grades of abrasives befor you work on that new 629. You will soon have a good idea of what you want. Stainless steel pot lids work too, and you may even have some burned on black spots on your stainless pots and pans in the kitchen. Your wife will thank you.
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Fuego
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06-13-2009, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuego
Get some stainless steel table knives from Goodwill and try the different grits and grades of abrasives befor you work on that new 629. You will soon have a good idea of what you want. Stainless steel pot lids work too, and you may even have some burned on black spots on your stainless pots and pans in the kitchen. Your wife will thank you.
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GREAT advice!
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07-06-2009, 11:25 PM
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I'll vouch for Mothers Mag polish! Spent a few hours with a dull M60. Looks better than new. The only drawback is now, my wife wants me to polish her Jeep rims!
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08-16-2009, 10:06 PM
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Any suggestions for blemished nickel, I just picked up a 29-3 cheap kinda as a project to get it back to original. No pits just what look like stains on the nickel
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