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1st thing to check.

I have about 12 mags because I've owned 4- 15-22s and all my my F&F love to shoot them at the same time. 6 mags have worn out or failed. 1 has worn feed lips and 5 have split down the seam at the feed lips. Thanks for letting me know they will replace them.

Here's the CMMG 22lR conversion, still using 15-22 mags cause they are the best mags! "...when you need to drop 850 grs of lead into something in .8 seconds." MAX-11A1:15 + CMMG 22LR Kit 1.0 | strobro32 | Flickr CCI Standard Velocity slows it down to 1600 RPM.

I tested 2.0 Sunday. I was able to shave off almost 900 RPM from the 1850 RPM. The new ROF is about 1000 RPM. Max 11A1:15 22LR Kit 2.0 | strobro32 | Flickr Here the screw on barrel adapter for the 15-22 4.5" barrel to AR upper. We also made a custom clip to use 15-22 mags for the Max-11A1...

So true. Nice video. The Krinker Plinker is running @ 1425 RPM. We're planning on trying the BDM 50 round drum next week. I'm currently making an adapter for the 10 round 15-22 mag to a 110 round ATI drum. Wish us luck.

I used parts from my 15-22 pistol to make a 22LR conversion for my MG. 25 rounds in .7 seconds. 22LR Max-11A1:15 | strobro32 | Flickr

I've owned 4 stock 10/22s and 2 stock 15-22s and one modified SBR 15-22. I love all of them with quality ammo. The only difference is the 10/22s start jamming at about 350-400 rds. The 15-22 goes about 900 rds before jamming in my experience.

The lower is pure plastic. If the stop was milled, it would still be black plastic.

I have not shot any of the poly coated 22LR in my 15-22s but I'd like to. It just pricier than what I normally shoot. I have a friend who does in his 15-22s and he reports no problems. I personally cast and powder coat all of my pistol ammo. I lover PC ammo. The PC ammo is easy to clean and...

Have you tried removing the grip and letting the selector detent pin and spring fall out? It may help with moving the selector. If you try this be super careful on tightening the grip screw, They strip easy.

The barrel nut does not require that much force because it has fine threads. I put a drop of blue lock tight on the inside of the barrel nut. I used the barrel nut wrench to hand tight. It has never come loose in many years.

Never hurt my upper/extractor because I do the research before I act. This site has great search feature. I used the conduit method. Worked great. If you do not own tools, I'd go with the Tacticool22.com. He helps this board all the time.

Both Dead Air and Silencershop are GTG. But both are only as good as the threading job.

BTW, most suppressors are not designed for the thread length of the 15-22, I think they are .6" long. The The OEM 15-22 threads need a .2" spacer for most suppressors. Stacking tolerances is not recommended for suppressors. The advantage of having custom threads for the 15-22 is that you can...

Suppressors in the USA are time consuming and expensive to acquire. My advise is to do everything possible to protect the investment. The only way I would recommend using a suppressor, is to remove the barrel and have it threaded by a reputable and recommended smith. Any other option else is a...

My first 15-22 was missing the J spring in the bottom of the trigger. That allowed the hammer pin to walk out repeatedly. Be sure to check that on your next cleaning.

I used flat aluminum stock in the same way as ThruNthru, for my 2021 pistol.

I have yet to break a firing pin, but I have spares. I have lost many plungers, plunger springs and extractors due to crappy, over-charged Remington Golden Bullets. I recommend having spares.

Another good reason for multiple 15-22s. Order parts, scavenge or use other 15-22 to never miss a range trip.