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I'm considering running some 125gr Rem JHPs through my near mint but lightly fired 4" model 19. Then, I've heard of the forcing cone business. I've also heard that this was primarily a rare problem "back in the day" when this load was hotter. So, basically, not sure if I should do it or not...

Ready? Current production model 67 4" 38+p from Smith and Wesson. The factory uncle mike's rubber grips are tremendous for this gun. The factory red ramp is great. The smoothness of the action lives up to the S&W rep. The targeting is so good with this thing with a high quality 38+p hollow point...

I know these terms are relative, but when a seller says a revolver from this time period (late 60's/early 70's) is in "very good" condition, what would that mean to you as a buyer?

Came across a new term I'm not familiar with. What is hammer push off?

I have come across a nice revolver that I want. However, I usually only buy mint or near mint. This revolver has been shot very little, it has generally excellent bluing and wood, but some mild muzzle wear. The price is pretty darn good. I do shoot everything I buy, but I take care of it...

Is the current production model 67 a round butt model?

I bought a model 10 snub with square butt. I'm curious if the square butt and round butt versions were offered at the same time or if they had date ranges when each was offered. I haven't found any information about this yet.

I noticed some small spots on the trigger guard of my blued model 19. It is otherwise pristine. These spots are very small, like the size of a needle point - have to kinda squint to see them. I assume it's rust since this was probably in a box unfired for about 25 years. Anything else it...

Looking for a quick answer from one of you wise folks. Is a 5" model 10-5 going to be a tapered (pencil) barrel or not? I've seen one picture that I swore looked like the non-tapered barrel, and I just saw a pic of a different gun, same model, that appeared to be tapered, so now I'm confused...

Price advice for model 29-2, 4" from late 1970s, nickel, mint condition, target hammer, trigger, sights? Has been fired a few times.

Has anybody ever heard of a lock failure with a modern classic model 36 or has this phenomenon, while very rare, been pretty much only associated with the aluminum and scandium frame lightweight guns?

What is meant by "no dash?" I am familiar with the subsets of model numbers, like model 10-5, etc. I don't get what is meant by say model 36 no dash though? Is that pre-model 36-1 or what?

What is the date range of production for model 10-7?

Why do I never see a model 36 color case finish except for the modern classic remakes? Was the earlier non-classic m36 line offered in color case?

I saw a model 10 "pinned barrel" recently. What is meant by a pinned barrel?

My understanding is that the model 37 is an airweight version of the model 36. Can anybody tell me how the 1970s model 37 differed from the model 36 in terms of metal composition? How did they change the metal composition to make it airweight?

I have seen this term come up a couple times and haven't yet seen a simple explanation of what is meant by hand-ejector? Can somebody enlighten me as to how this is different from a more modern revolver?

I bought a pristine model 19-5 that shoots great, but I'm having some occasional misfires with it. Today was my second range trip with it and I noticed that on the misfires the dimple from the firing pin was more shallow than it was for the good fires. I have checked the mainspring screw and...

I just bought a pristine model 19-5 4" barrel. The appearance of it is excellent, and the accuracy of it is unbelievable. It has a target hammer and trigger. My question for those of you who are more experienced with the mechanics of revolvers - if I had a couple duds with cheaper ammo (Rem...