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I am near-sighted and can see close up (in the same room) just fine without glasses. But I wear prescription glasses for distance, such as driving or going to a movie theater. I mainly carry for self defense, so when I target shoot It's at 20' / 7 yards distance and I don't need my glasses. I...

About a year ago I read a Lucky Gunner article about the 386 series of scandium L-frames. Since then I've been looking for one of the black ones (the Nightguard or PD versions) but they never show up for sale. I believe they were only made for about 5 or 6 years in the early 2000's and never...

1) I know this forum is not a proper source of legal information. 2) I have researched this topic on the NRA-IL website as well as USCCA. 3) I still gotta ask... We are planning a vacation and will be driving through 5 states. 4 of them are reciprocal regarding my PA LTC and don't have any...

I just re-watched the film 3:10 to Yuma. I got to wondering: how did Military, Lawmen, Ranchers and Outlaws clean and de-lead their revolvers? What solvents, tools and techniques did people roaming the plains have at their disposal? I usually use jacketed bullets in all my "modern" revolvers...

I recently purchased a 2" m10-7 through GB. Inside the shipping box I found the stubby K stuffed into a very nice Chief's Special box with all the original S&W paperwork for said Chief. I don't own any Chiefs so Im trying to find the owner of this particular serial #. If they come forward and...

My newest purchase is a beautiful model 10-7. It's only my second K-frame, after my 6" 66-1. The blueing is very nice, as are the #'s matching stocks. It looks like it was kept well and not shot very often. Can someone help me date this gun? Wiki says the -7 was produced from '77 - '88. SN#...

I am looking for one steel J-frame and one K or L frame "frame" for grip making. I don't need the barrel, cylinder, hammer/trigger, side plate or any of the action parts. Just the basic frames with un-damaged grip frames. Finish is unimportant, including light surface rust. These will need...

I recently purchased a "Polished Steel" hammer and trigger for K frames. They are beautiful and shine like a chrome bumper. The seller tells me they are case-hardened that he has polished. Without the original dark outer layer, will these quickly develop surface rust? Thanks

I'm sure it's a stupid question but I've never had a blued revolver before. On my stainless guns I can easily clean the carbon off the cylinder with a Magic Eraser, but I assume that's terrible for blueing. I'm buying a blued Model 10 and want to keep it clean while preserving the finish.

I usually replace the MIM hammers and triggers on my modern revolvers with stainless or polished parts. I bought a NOS hammer for my 617-6 that was sold as "NOS S&W K frame Target Rimfire Hammer - New Model". It fits and moves perfectly everywhere except where it's seer interacts with the...

I'm looking for a stubby K-frame that chambers .357 but doesn't have adjustable sights. I like the size and looks of the 2" model 10 but it's a .38 only. I keep looking at model 65 but the shortest barrels I see are 3". Can you fine members educate me on what .357 K-frames (new or old) were...

The strain screw on my 66-1 K-frame was buggered up, so I bought a new one. The new one is slightly longer ( .6055 vs .5630) with a rounded tip and greatly increases the trigger pull. The original has a flat tip and the trigger is nice and smooth. Question - When the gun was built in 1980 did...

I got an Ed Brown thumb latch and wanted to show it off. I've seen the Hogue pieces but this guy called to me (on epay) and I don't think Mr Brown makes these anymore.

I purchased two model 63s (different sellers) and picked them up today. Of course they are P&R. One is in pretty good shape, while the other has some pitting and the action feels gummed up. I'll disable and clean/lube both, but I have some questions.

I purchased a NOS set of Eagle "Finger Position" grips for my 66-1. I've seen them on Eagle's website but these are made differently than the modern ones they show. These wrap around the top of the backstay up near the hammer but leave most of the backstay exposed. Reminds me of a woman's...

Today I took delivery of my first vintage S&W, and it's a mint NOS piece. All the gun-store regulars lined up to look at it and tell me stories about the 66's they had owned. It had a hazy coating of grease (?) all over when I unrapped it and the controls felt a little "gummy" or sticky...

I have a beautiful J-Frame grip adapter that I don't need. Look to trade for K/L-Frame adapter in similar condition. Has no nicks, scratches or dents. Aluminum looks 99%, brass tabs look gently used. Please see pics below.

I consider myself forum- savy but I can't figure out how to post large pics in the body of my threads. On all my other forums it automatically does this but here they seem to default as thumb nails. I searched but didn't find anything. I tried to pose this question in the "Rules, Terms, Info"...

1st off, I am no expert gunsmith. And I am new to revolvers. My only experience is 20 years with shotguns, including the past 8 as an NRA - Certified Shotgun Instructor with BSA clearances. I shoot trap and have recently gotten into revolvers. In the past month I have purchased three S&W...

I bought an imitation Ivory combat grip from Boones Trading Company for my M&P 340. It looks beautiful and feels great in my hand. I daily carry this gun, either in my pants pocket or my front jacket pocket. Today I finally took it to the range and loaded it with Fiocchi "General Purpose" 38...