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It’s a 5-digit serial number .32-20. What are the odds a more modern version will fit?

Trying to make a range rod while learning to use the lathe. Checked my first attempt on 8 different barrels - they varied from .342 to .350! Most came in around .347 so now I’m a bit confused. As expected, the largest was the oldest, a lemon squeezer. The tightest by far was a 686-6 barrel...

What an adventure. My previous thread on the topic was about how every traditional method failed. Bent too many punches, Time to make some stuff. Yes I bought a lathe. Ended up adapting a puller set to work like an arbor press. Still bent the shaft. Made a little pin holder and cut some...

Job #1 - making punches. Tiny bits of very hard steel! Getting close. I have no idea what I am doing LOL

First off, is the degree # the included angle or degrees from parallel to the bore? What’s the S&W factory angle?

Got one out no problem, second barrel big problem. It started with the #5 cup tip- barely- then the punch bent. So far I’ve bent two 1.5mm Allen wrench shafts, shattered several drill bits (reversed in a brass handle) Not sure what to do next, it just won’t budge. Bound up just before it would...

Looking at some take off barrels - were the .22LR and the .22WMR different bore sizes, as produced by S&W? From what I gather the 22 jet was .222, the 22WMR should be .224

Tuco’s Revolver Emporium getting ready for business Tuco Benedicto Pacífico Juan María Ramírez, Esq, Proprieter

At least that’s what I think it is. The odd thing is that it has what I think is the serial number on the front strap of the frame, with grips that cover the butt. They are so worn it’s hard to tell but they look original. I’d swear I read somewhere that pre-war I-frames could have the serial...

I’m eyeing one for sale, but my experience with this series is thin to none. I thought the serial number could be found on the yoke as well as the butt. They don’t match - should they?

Found this on castbulletassoc.org- Attention Required! | Cloudflare I’m going to mix up a batch and soak some stubborn parts.

Time to face the music. I have done plenty of pins on CZ pistols but none where I’m sweating the finish this much. What’s your go to setup for barrel pins? Can’t find cup tip punches in stock anywhere, seems that all roads lead back to brownells. I’ve read that a nail set works to get it...

One of my recent acquisitions is a 1957 K38 that came with an 8 3/8 barrel installed, plus a 4” model 15 barrel. I wasn’t sure if it was a pre-14 or pre-15 nor was the seller (online) but at the price I didn’t really care. Turns out it has the frame cuts at the rib to match the narrower 15...

Anyone know what the new barrels are threaded for? Edit: please don’t say so it will screw into the frame

Did it start around the same time as the 10 shot steel cylinder?

What .22 barrels will fit a pre-34, 1953 model?

“Bob” the 586 might get a bobbed and shaved barrel, which would lop off the front sight. Considering similar idea for a model 13. Are there any options for a replacement sight that don’t require milling?

Anyone know when - All frames went round butt The 3 threaded holes for sights started to show up;hopefully pre-lock The grooved backstrap went away Shrouded barrels started

My old battle-axe 586 was begging for a refresh. After many USPSA Major loads, some porting and so on it was in need of a new cylinder and barrel to be useful. What better time to graduate from Bubbahood? Got the parts, most of the tools and I’ve been studying up. So far the 7 shot SS cylinder...

Trying to figure this out, looking at just a cylinder for sale. If I am looking at this correctly it appears to be from a pre-model 30. Does that sound right? I’m on the hunt for .32 parts.