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All of my N frames are 6"/6.5" as are my other revolvers. Not a fan of the 4" in any frame size. I like the longer sight range.

I have another 27-2 w/6" barrel and nickel plated. The Letter shows a ship date of 12/4/80. I also have a 28-2 w/6" barrel that I bought in June of 1973. Not to mention, I have a 29-2 bought in May of 1975. I do like the N frame guns. May favorite is the 28. It is actually my second 28...

Hair Trigger Mine like yours was shipped to Southern Police Equipment in Richmond, VA. I live just outside Richmond and purchased the gun in December 2024 from Greentop Sporting Goods. Per the salesman the gun was from a local collector that had just recently died. The gun came in the wooden...

Mine also letters 2/22/78. SN ends in; 936

17 27 28 29 686 all with 6"=/- barrels BTW, I have these.

both guns were sent back to smith monday afternoon. smith customer service was quick getting me RMA numbers and shipping labels.

Pic's attached. There were two of us shooting the revolvers, both have been shooting over fifty years and have owned many S&W revolvers. The issues were the same for both of us. The ammo was winchester 38 spl+P. The first gun, img2727, stopped turning in two positions and the hammer would not...

Purchased two 686+'s in March. Neither with fire a full cylinder without the cylinder locking in place or the hammer not being able to be fully pulled to the rear. In looking at the guns the extractor "star" does not have the "fingers" that rotate the cylinder are cut the with the same profile...

Like the title says; So What is Wrong with the Newer Models with the Locking Hammer

Is there any advantage to having a fluted over the unfluted cylinder?

thank you all for the information. I do have an early 686 that is shot little and it has never been sent back for the upgrade. Ill kept it as is as a collector piece or shoot it w/38 spl. I am just wanting a newer 686 and see some older 686 w/ the M stamp and the newer 7 round cylinder and...

I am looking at an early production 686 ND. Between the serial number and the model number on the frame there is a 'M' stamped. The 'M' looks to be be the same font as the letters in the serial number. What does this 'M' mean?

My 4" 66 ND is dated to 1974 per the S&W Std Cat. Many years ago 357 mag loads were shot through it and the cylinder loosed up - too much movement axially. The local gunsmith, was a retired S&W armorer, stated the 66's were too light weight to handle the 357 mag loads and to only use 38 special...

My 66 ND is dated to 1974 per the S&W Std Cat. Many years ago 357 mag loads were shot through it and the cylinder loosed up it - too much movement axially. The local gunsmith, was a retired S&W armorer, stated the 66's were too light weight to handle the 357 mag loads and to only use 38 special...

I too have at 27-2, S/N N4479xx with a letter stating a ship date of 2-22-78. I had a 28-2 that I purchased on 6-2-73 with a S/N N48844.

Hawg Rider - Thanks for the picture. I start looking for the screwdriver/SAT at the next local gun show, which is in early Jan, or ebay.

I just purchase a Model 27-2 that I believe was made in 1977. The gun came with the presentation case, cleaning tools and all the paperwork. I did not find the screwdriver that came with several of my other 197x N frame guns. When did the inclusion of the screwdriver, for rear adjusting as I am...

I used my brass brush and got some of the carbon off after letting Hopps 9 soak. There are still places of hard carbon cake. I'll look into a brass scraper/pick to do the final cleaning. The gun was bought used and did not appear to be well cleaned but is tight and functions properly. Now for...

What "tool" do y'all use to get the residue off of the barrel rear end inside the frame? See attached picture.

Attached are two pictures showing markings on the frame of my Model 66-1. In the picture 2321a the number 39574 I believe is the shop assembly number as it is also on the yoke and the last two numbers are on the handles. But what do the other stampings stand for?