Search results

My gun is from 1978. I wasn't as worried as much about the color as I was the faded "smith & wesson" engraving. I'm going to shoot it and see if the pin keeps walking out, then I will try the loctite method. If I use a brass punch do I have to worry about it being cupped or no? And how would...

Here's some pics for you guys

The barrel pin is definitely walking it was centered and now it's not. the loads were 240gr lswc with 8.3 grains of universal, pretty mild. Vintage is 1978. I'm almost 100 percent sure it was reblued with how bad the fading is, pics on the way. Thanks for the advice, I think I will try the...

Ok thanks for the advice guys I'm going to wait till it walks out a little further because it still protrudes on both side. If I'm going to go the route of bending the pin how would you suggest I go about that @pharmer

My very first smith and wesson was my 29-2. When I bought it I thought it was lnib and I payed a hefty price. Later, upon closer inspection I noticed that the "Smith and wesson" engraved on the barrel was faded and realized that it had been refinished. Idk if just the barrel has been...

I think I'm going to try to get a deal for the 2 originals and put 1 of them on layaway (the model 28). It's such a shame that the 3.5 incher isn't original, or at least in the same price range as the other 2. Here's a picture for you guys.

sorry i meant model 28 not 29. i will take a closer look at the blued 27 when i go back, but #3 definitely isnt original finish. although the blued 27 does come with box and papers which leads me to believe it is original.

BigBill i like the way you think. is the 3.5 incher really worth that much even with a non original finish though?

my lgs has three N-frames im interested in but of course i can only afford one at the moment. this will be my third smith revolver so i am by no means an expert. im looking for price checks and opinions on the three following guns all of which appear to be around 95%. 1) model 27-2, 6 inch...

@Hoosier i think that is a good sign that they are factory grips seeing as yours seems to be all original. @Buff and Scooter i hear where you're coming from but why do i always read that people shoot their 29s loose with factory ammo? scooter the fact that you said the light use of 158 grain...

they do have the football cutout and i just got done cleaning it with hoppes (damn it) i guess i will avoid hoppes from now on

Thanks here's some photos

I picked up a 19-3 at a gun show yesterday. It's a 4 inch, nickel, circa 1974, i would say its about 93-95%. i have a few questions as this is only my second smith and my first nickel gun. 1. Is there any cleaners or solvents that i should avoid using on the nickel finish? my 29-2 is blued...

ya you should just wait to get one for $600-$800 Are the Italians making Colt Python copies? – www.GrantCunningham.com

i recently saw an article somewhere about cimmaron or pietta or one of those clone companies that are going to start reproducing the python.

i have a springer loaded 1911 in phosphate. its in good condition only flaw is a small scratch near the front sight. gun has about 500 rounds through it. includes blue factory box and one magazine. im asking $650 FTF in Cleveland, OH. will consider shipping at buyers expense if it doesn't sell...

nice buy, that what i want for my next revolver.my LGS has one in a little worse condition than yours for $700. guess ill have to keep looking

i would gladly trade my full size for a glock 19 sized m&p any day and i cant stand glocks

FNX-9 just couldn't hit the bullseye with it, even though nobody else seemed to have that problem

i would choose 9 because: -higher capacity -less recoil -quicker follow up shot -less wear on the gun -cheaper ammo -knockdown power is about the same just read the newest FBI ballistic tests, they are switching back to the 9s from the 40s because they have basically the same power, are easier...