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After not being impressed with the factory finish (as well as a few finish blends from the factory) I'm dropping the gun off at wright armory here in mesa for a cerekote finish, either in aluminum grey, or combat grey. I've seen several other of these firearms cerekoted and they all turn our...

Looking at ordering a set of these for my carry revolver and was wondering if they are a metal sight. Most of the pictures I see they seem to be polymer.

I finally talked myself into a new 586 L comp. I was skeptical about the finish ( and honestly question its durability), but it is a top notch gun like my other 2 performance centers (629 snub PC, 686 snub PC). For those who have this gun, what do you guys think of the finish and its durability...

I told myself a long time ago that I would never buy another polymer gun.

The title says it all. Is a roll or tape crimp preferred for revolver cartridges.

What are everyone's opinions on this ammo in terms of revolver cartridges. The price is very good for a box of 50 for jhp. It doesn't seem to have a roll crimp like hornady does, but more of a taper crimp. Has anyone ever had an issue with their bullets jumping the crimp?

This has been asked before, but never to the exactness as I have been searching for. For those who reload and then store their ammo for long periods, do you seal the primer and bullet, or just the primer, or neither. I have about a thousand plus rounds of fiocchi 158gr 357 jhp that i have stored...

All my other revolvers are performance centers, so I haven't seen this issue before. Other than a cosmetic issue, should I be concerned with the way the face of the forcing cone looks.

I have my ammo stored in my closet in ammo cans. I'm going to put a small dehumidifier in the closet. Should i leave the ammo cans open with the dehumidifier running for awhile before i seal them up?

I hear a lot of talk about 125gr damaging revolvers (forcing cone erosion, flame cutting). I have always used 158gr for this reason but how many thousands of rounds would it take for those issues to actually become a problem on any a 686 L frame?

Finally got one in my hand today and was surprised at how poor the quality control was. Compared to smith and wesson revolvers, the action felt cheap,like it was about to break at any moment. And it wasn't just the one revolver, I held all 3 and they where all that way. For those who own one...

I've heard that the newer matte blueing like what is on the 586 L comp will be damaged by using hoppes 9. How durable is the finish on a 586 or similar gun then?

Been looking at both of these revolvers and was wondering which one you all would choose. What are the pros and cons for those who own them. Include pics if you can. I've heard one criticism of the model 60 is that the forcing cone is rather thin.

Looking into adding one of these to my collection next. I know that the "blueing" is more of a matte finish. How well does this hold up to carry over a period of time.

I am looking at the 4 inch barreled model 66 l, but the ball detent lockup on the short barreled version locks into the crane. The 4 inch "locks" into a v notch on the bottom of the frame. Is this strong enough to warrant buying it, or going with a 686 ssr.

What's everyone's opinions on federal "champion" ammo. They have good pricing for 357 ammo in my area. What's everyone's opinions on it.

I have a bunch of federal 158 grain jacketed soft points and was wondering if these would be any good for revolvers ranging from 2 3/4 to a 3 inch barrel. Over penetration issues? Thanks

I've read mixed reviews about this ammo, but that are all over 5 years old. The pricing is good, but I was wondering what everyone's "updated" opinion is. This is the 125 grain sjhp. Thanks.

I have read and heard that it does not have enough velocity out of a 3 inch or under revolver to expand, and thus provides the characteristics of a fmj

I have acquired a bunch of 158 grain 357 ammo that are jacketed soft points. I know jsp is not recommended for carry in a defensive revolver, but can on turn the bullets into semi jacketed hollow points by drilling or melting a small hole into the soft point? Thanks