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    Model 49 Bolt is too short

    I had a similar problem on a Mod 15. The bolt nose piece was not coming flush with the recoil shield. The nose piece is actually pressed into the bolt. After properly seating in a vice, I was able to coax the nose piece out a bit further. That was a few years ago and the nose piece has shown...
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    Scored an engraved Model 58 today!Updated with Hi Res photos

    I can just about imagine what that beautiful piece must have cost in Dog Dollars. Well done
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    Pop pops model 19

    If SCSW 4th Edition says K frames for 1974 are numbered 7K1 - 7K27043 and the Combat Magnum in question is numbered 7K5425, how can it have a date of 1974 ?? Congrats on your new revolver.
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    Combat Masterpiece Question

    The S&W gunsmiths working at the repair center were instructed to remove those trigger stops. There are reassembly cases in which the stop prevented the trigger to be pulled back far enough to EASILY install the hammer
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    Gas Ring Separating from Cylinder 19-3

    Sounds to me like S&W is using that for an excuse not to fix the problems you sent it to them to fix. Things are going to hell. Everyone is hiding from their customers. I don't know about timing but you can get shims for correcting endshake. Hope you can get it fixed.
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    The special Yoke Endshake screw

    Sorry, I didn't realize that the problem had been solved. Good job.
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    The special Yoke Endshake screw

    You only have play when the cylinder is open. Is the play between the yoke and the frame or is the play of the cylinder and the shaft bushing ? The screw will only address the former. If it's the latter I'm not sure how this can be addressed. Years ago I asked, here, about what I felt to be too...
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    Model 19-3 without recessed cylinder

    The empty trigger stop slot may indicate that your 19 spent some time at S&W's repair depot. Repair guys were instructed to remove those stops from any revolvers that came across their bench.
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    My new friend: 329PD Alaskan Backpacker

    OK....I must admit it. I would love that piece but just for .44 specials. I don't go into the woods much.
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    Cutting barrel 4” to 3”

    You are correct. When I did mine I didn't know there was a stainless steel solder flux available. I know better now. I would have preferred a silver SOLDER product because silver BRAZE fillers have copper in the mix which gives golden color when applied.
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    Cutting barrel 4” to 3”

    Exactly. Here is the 2018 receipt for the one I showed above. It has no collector value now and no collector value when I bought it.
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    Cutting barrel 4” to 3”

    I think that some examples shown in this thread were not examples of "custom smithing". I believe they are home brews by bubbas like me.
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    Cutting barrel 4” to 3”

    Yes...But I silver brazed (65% silver filler at 1,200 degrees F) Here is my key way as you suggest.
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    Cutting barrel 4” to 3”

    Here is my model 64 4" that I cut down to 3".
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    28-2 rescued Update and story in post #34

    Hahahaha. tell me about it...I'm 84. Your "ATF" is Automatic Transmission Fluid
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    686 with strain screw backed out

    when S&W converts the square butt to round butt, it removes a bit of metal from the front strap. To compensate for this and at the same time...keep the full strain screw head dimensions, they drill the screw hole a bit deeper with a bit shorter strain screw. I have done 2 conversions myself...
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    Model 19-4 2 1/2 inch

    Never had much use for a snub. Then, I watched Hickok45 smack the 80 yard gong over and over with one. Now I pay more attention. Good catch.
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    Eye Candy

    I'll bet that pen was one of those used to sign the Japanese surrender in Tokyo harbor 1945.
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    Let's See Some 3" K-Frames

    Always wanted one. Could never find one. So I made one out of a beat-up model 64 4" barrel one.
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