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Gotcha. Will do. :) As far as the present cylinder alignment, it lines up really nice right now in my opinion. But that's by eyeing it with a flashlight looking down the bore.

There was ton of rotational slop. It was in my opinion that both the cylinder slots and the stop were both worn, but the stop itself had a little more of the wear.

After trying to see if it's the hand length, unless I'm missing the overall design function of the ejector pawls, this hand would be 50 thousandths too long... The dilemma is that when you perform the double action trigger pull, by the time you're at about 95% through the pull, the hand still...

The I fitted the cylinder stop to the tightest notch on the cylinder first, then took off the rest out of the window to let it through. I'm guessing now that threw everything off huh. The cylinder stop screw is tight and the plunger's untouched as far as I can see.

What you described is correct, describing my first problem; but before I realised that was happening, the cylinder moving before the lock began its descent into the frame was the original problem. That is a function of my gap being too big where that white arrow's pointing. But you're right...

Well thank you man! I appreciate that :) I'll see if I need any once I continue screwing with this thing.

I would tend to agree, that at this point (though ive NO idea how) the hand is too long...(in theory) but it's 82 years old, so I have to assume it's the only new part causing this... though if I sand any more of that brand new cylinder stop off, I'm going right back to where I was from the...

Wouldn't that defeat the entire reason for me putting a new cylinder stop in though?

Ok, here's my problem. On this 1905 5 screw, I installed a new Power Custom oversized cylinder stop that had to be fitted. I fitted it and finally got it to start working, but the revolver now developed another problem; at the verry end of the double action trigger squeeze, you can feel the...

Ok cool, I'll keep an eye out.

Anyone have any idea where to get the grips pictured on the 7th pic down (non medallion checkered diamond service) on the grip thread by chance? http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-hand-ejectors-1896-1961/549200-smith-wesson-n-frame-stocks-grips-reference-guide.html

I see. Very good info. Never considered that either!

So it's a forcing cone thing, not so much a split cylinder thing... I see... Never thought of it that way.

I have the low pressure rounds already, I was just curious to see if these older models could even take a cylinder or two full of modern +P's without ruining the pistol permanently. I know some old pistols out there you run one +P in them and they're done, which is why I ask.

Yea, that's what I do for my modern carry guns as well.

It may be a winter carry every now and again... They are ok for that aren't they? Or wouldn't you recommend that.

I see. That's very good to know.

Velocity can correlate to chamber pressure, but it's not an absolute. Plus, the pressures from ammo in the 50's may not be helpful because not only do I doubt you can still get the EXACT same powder they were quoting for those velocities in that book and even if you could, I'm 100% certain...

About that pressure you're talking about... Penetration, muzzle velocity and pine boards have zero to do with chamber pressure, which is the thing were hoping to learn more about here. Muzzle velocity is a function of quite a few things including ambient air temps, bullet to bore fit, barrel...

I see. So heavy leads eh? And what is a pre model K frame?