TRIGGERS and HAMMERS

[S&W WHEELNUT]

I just picked up a 646-3 and 625-3 ..... I would like to bob the
hammers, put wider trigger assy., and some liter springs. Is there any custom parts out there ? Does anyone know what
lb. spring I should get from Wolff. What about the sears ?

[lobosolo]

It all depends what you want to do with your revo.Competition or carry or just for the range. Apex tactical makes a hammer called the evolution.If you install this one that would make it a DA only.Wolfe will send you a pkg of different weights and you will just have to match it with your gun.As for the sears I would take it to a good smith because it's easy to
go too far if your not familar with stoning the sears

[David Sinko]

I don't bother with aftermarket parts anymore. They're just a waste of money. Stock parts can be suitably modified to achieve any weight trigger pull. I cut a coil or so off the rebound spring and bend the mainspring slightly, but I find that bending the mainspring really isn't necessary. I do "hard primer actions jobs" on all my revolvers. My so-called competition guns are all service grade revolvers and I don't bother with that "Federal primer only" foolishness. There's nothing I despise more than a revolver that won't fire Winchester or CCI primers.

A hammer spur is easily cut off with a hacksaw or Dremel but then the finished product will need to be carefully finished with a file or belt sander if you want a professional look. Blasting with beads or aluminum oxide will not remove the small lumps and bumps. Still, it's a relatively easy project if you want to do it yourself.

I always prefer the .265" grooved trigger and have no use for smooth triggers. Since grooved triggers are getting harder to find these days, I find I can get along quite well by taking the common .312" smooth trigger and cutting two grooves into it with the reinforced cutoff wheel of the Dremel. The sharp edges are removed with one of the mildly abrasive bits and then the whole thing is zapped with a mildly abrasive buffing compound. If done carefully, it will look like it came from the factory that way. I find this is a wonderful compromise between the worthless, impossible to control smooth trigger and sometimes painful narrow factory serrations.

Again, this is all do-it-yourself and there is no need to pay a gunsmith to do any of this. It saves me the trouble of having to pay for special parts and fitting.

Dave Sinko

[Carmoney]

Originally Posted by David Sinko

I don't bother with that "Federal primer only" foolishness.

As a serious competitive revolver shooter, I can report that Dave's stance on this is......(ahem).....distinctly in the minority.

Those who are willing to limit their game guns to well-seated Federal primers can derive huge benefit from DA trigger pulls in the 5.5 to 6 pound range.

Go to any major USPSA or ICORE match and you'll find that's what virtually all the high-level revolver shooters are using.

[David Sinko]

Yeah, Carmoney, when I saw your name on this thread, I knew EXACTLY what you were going to say! But that's OK... To say that I'm in the minority is an understatement; I'm the only one! I always make sure I bring lots of ammo to the match in case anybody needs to borrow some. And I still use the old plated Winchester primers that can be passed off as Federal to the unsuspecting...

Really, though, my goal with my "trigger job" is to lighten the springs just enough that I can put two hits into the A Zone of a quickly disappearing target under match conditions. That works for me and fires all commercial primers.

And where's the pic of a Carmonized hammer? I was expecting that too.

Dave Sinko

[OKFC05]

I just picked up a 646-3

From my experience with my 646, don't mess with it if you ever have any intention of relying on the gun for defense. My 646 was far less tolerant of the usual "range queen mods" than any 686 I've set up for IDPA. I wound up with a strutted mainspring essentially stock weight to achieve 100% reliability. When I was using the 646 in IDPA (before the rulles change) I won my class in a sanctioned match because I had 100% ignition against the next guy's 4 failures to fire: won by less than a second.

On the other hand, if you're going to use it for competition, it makes no sense to bob the hammer, since single action can be useful on those ridiculous long shots.

Sorry if I sound so negative, but I don't see these proposed changes as improvements, and I thnk you'll come to regret them.