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Smith & Wesson Competitive Shooting All aspects of competitive shooting using Smith and Wesson Firearms. Including: IPSC, IDPA, Silhouette, Bullseye.


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  #1  
Old 03-20-2011, 10:46 PM
johnpike405 johnpike405 is offline
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Default 25-2 ouch!

I recently bought a 25-2 .45 acp revolver from a friend. My intention is to shoot defensive pistol and other competitions with it but have run into a slight problem. While I am fairly competant with the revolver and shot a course this morning, I cut my trigger finger on the trigger edges. I literally sliced a chunk out of my finger shooting the first course of fire. I duct taped it shut ad finished the course but now I am worried that this will cut me more if I fire the pistol continously. I really love this pistol and it shoots really good but it is all original with the target hamer and trigger and I do not want to change these out but would like to find a way to prevent bleeding all over my pistol. Any suggestions?

The pistol is a 25-2 .45 acp with target hammer and trigger, 6 inch barrel. I shoot left handed and have moon clips for the rounds. the barrel legnth is a little long but managable. I was the only person who shot a wheel gun today and although this is my first time with this pistol I feel that I did pretty well against the machinegunners that were out today.
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:03 PM
M29since14 M29since14 is online now
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About the only thing you can do is get a 3/8" diameter medium or fine India stone and go after the edge(s) that is causing the cut. If you do this carefully, it will be hardly noticeable, but no matter what you do, you will see it if you look closely. I don't know of any way to get rid of the edge that cannot be detected without having the trigger refinished. Since the original finish is case-colored from the heat treatment process, it is probably best not to bother with it.
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:07 PM
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Rather than tearing into this trigger, why not get one of the .312" smooth combat triggers or one of the .265" serrated service triggers. You could then remove the serrations off it and have a smooth narrow trigger. You would cause no damage to the origianl condition of the revolver. It can be put back in original shape in under 15 minutes.
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:09 PM
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If it is the trigger that is cutting you, swap it out with a smooth trigger, and hang onto the original one. If you decide to sell it, put the old trigger back.


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Old 03-21-2011, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnpike405 View Post
I recently bought a 25-2 .45 acp revolver from a friend. My intention is to shoot defensive pistol and other competitions with it but have run into a slight problem. While I am fairly competant with the revolver and shot a course this morning, I cut my trigger finger on the trigger edges. I literally sliced a chunk out of my finger shooting the first course of fire. I duct taped it shut ad finished the course but now I am worried that this will cut me more if I fire the pistol continously. I really love this pistol and it shoots really good but it is all original with the target hamer and trigger and I do not want to change these out but would like to find a way to prevent bleeding all over my pistol. Any suggestions?

The pistol is a 25-2 .45 acp with target hammer and trigger, 6 inch barrel. I shoot left handed and have moon clips for the rounds. the barrel legnth is a little long but managable. I was the only person who shot a wheel gun today and although this is my first time with this pistol I feel that I did pretty well against the machinegunners that were out today.
My 629 3 inch has the smooth trigger- no cuts very comfortable to shoot.I agree with the other replies get a smooth trigger and you will be happy .
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Old 03-21-2011, 09:19 PM
johnpike405 johnpike405 is offline
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Thank you all for the response. I will find a smooth trigger and put that on. Is there any special tools or anyhting that I would need to change this out?
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Old 03-22-2011, 12:43 AM
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You will need a small set of gunsmith screwdrivers to remove the sideplate. Also you will need a small punch to lift the hand spring inside the trigger when you move the hand from one trigger to another.
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Old 03-22-2011, 01:13 AM
Rule 303 Rule 303 is offline
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I always called the Combat Triggers, "Ranger Triggers".
Over the years I replaced all of my S&W Revolvers that had Target Triggers and Target Hammers with the regular hammer and Ranger trigger. I have about 20 TT and Target Hammers sitting in my S&W Revolver parts box now, a few are modified..

When I was a young ranger, I'd mill the sides of the trigger down to .315 and then take a rubber tip on a dremil tool to it and smooth the face of the trigger and round the edges so that it was similar to the combat trigger. The hammers I'd bob, did a nice job too. Blasphemy, I know, but then I only carried and shot S&W Revolvers as duty and off duty guns.
And young USNPS Park Rangers didn't make much money in the early 70s. Still have all of them, but some I havent shot in 20 years.

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Old 03-23-2011, 10:39 PM
johnpike405 johnpike405 is offline
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Thank you all for the replies and advice. Where would I find one of the triggers described? I know that midway has the Jerry Michulek videos and I will get one of those but I need a source for a trigger. thank you very much
John
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:48 PM
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K, L and N triggers are the same. You can order from S&W or Brownells. The S&W part number for the .312 smooth trigger is 045960000. The price in their parts list is $42.77.
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:40 PM
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Also I think the right grips (stocks) puts the trigger finger in the right place and would maybe help solve the problem???
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:16 PM
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I think the corner of the trigger is what bites me.



I have to file it off on all of my L & N frame guns that I shoot double action with.
Ruger’s too!
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