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04-16-2012, 03:12 AM
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Best 45 ACP Revolver for IDPA
A little history. I have shot in several different kinds of handgun Competition over the years, starting in 1966, Bullseye, IPSC,[early IPSC when we shot real 1911's with 200gr bullet and 7.5gr of Unique] Police Combat.
I have only shot 2 or 3 IDPA matches.
My local gun club is starting IDPA matches, we had a meeting and a practice this weekend.
I am a 1911, 45 ACP kind of guy.
I did carry a S&W Mod 25-2 in 45 ACP as a Duty gun for several years, when semiautos and BIG Magnums were outlawed, by a couple of Chiefs. I also used the 25-2 in Bullseye a few times, just for the fun of it and shot it in IPSC matches as well...
I would like to have a 4" 45 ACP revolver to shoot in IDPA once in a while as I like shooting S&W revolvers.
So which of the 4" S&W's is the better choice, the one with the underlug or the one with the more standard looking barrel. My thoughts are the one with the more standard barrel would fit my Milt Sparks Summer Special holster, as well as the belt holsters for my S&W 4" 44 Mags.
But if the underlug gun is "Mo Betta" then I would consider it, and just get a holster for it.
So What say Ye???
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04-16-2012, 04:35 AM
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The 625 JM would be a great choice! Not cheap but then again what GOOD .45 is? I use a 25-2 in some USPSA matches but it is too big in IDPA as far a barrel length goes.
Randy
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04-16-2012, 01:18 PM
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I was kicking this around myself. The differences between the two offerings are the the PC model has chamfered charge holes, a trigger overtravel stop and they are handfitted - and as you pointed out, the difference in the underlugs. Aside from the really ugly grips (hey, I'm as patriotic as the next guy, but those are just plain *****), I think I'd go for the PC version. I'd change the grips and probably changeout the front sight for a FO one.
Just my $.02 worth.
Adios,
Pizza Bob
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05-02-2012, 06:17 PM
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If you want the best competitive gear, then you want a 4" 625 with full underlug and a kydex holster from Blade-Tech or Comp-Tac.
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05-02-2012, 08:18 PM
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IMO either version of the 625 will work quite well.
With it's slightly lighter weight and lighter barrel the PC version will be a touch faster to draw and get on target, however it will also have a bit more muzzle flip and that will delay your repeats a tiny bit.
In contrast the slightly heavier JM version will slow getting it on target a tiny bit but that extra mass in the barrel will allow slightly more rapid followups.
IMO in terms of handling characteristics the the effect on time it will probably end up near dead even.
So where else do these 2 versions differ. One notable difference is in how the barrels are rifled. The PC version has a barrel with traditional broached rifling, which means that it will be less sensitive to leading. The 625 JM features an ECM barrel so it may provide a slight edge in velocity with jacketed bullets but will require that any lead bullets be properly lubricated or it will lead horribly.
Next difference is the triggers. If you like triggers with serrations sharp enough to draw blood the 625 JM is just what you want, because those serrations are sharp enough that it WILL draw blood from even the most calloused fingertip. If you like a smooth trigger you'll want to get the PC model. BTW, the trigger in the JM version is Forged but the hammer is MIM. I assume that the PC version also gets a forged trigger but could be wrong about that.
As for the grips, it terms of how they will work for shooting IMO they are identical. Size and profile appear to be identical with the only difference being the appearance. Since grips are easy to change I would call the grips a total wash.
Next up is the cylinder. The PC version features a chamfered cylinder to speed loading and the M version does not. However, my particular 625 JM was delivered with the extractor that is used on the 625 PC and this extractor is chamfered. In my case having that chamfered extractor made it very easy to chamfer my cylinder using a Dremel with a diamond burr.
Finally there is the Performance Center "tuning". Sorry to burst someones bubble but it's my belief that the only feature of a Performance Center "tuneup" is a strain screw that has been backed out a bit. Something that in time will cause problems with misfires because a loose strain screw will only get looser with shooting. To be blunt I consider a Performance Center "tuneup" to be of zero value. The simple truth is that these are very easy guns to tune and an owner can do things that the lawyers won't allow the Performance Center to do, such as tune the gun for an 8 lbs. DA trigger.
Final thoughts. If you enjoy doing your own work on your revolver I'd suggest that you get the 625 JM, it will save you about 100 dollars. However be aware that you will have to pull the trigger and knock those sharp serrations down with a Dremel and you'll also want to chamfer the cylinder to speed reloads. While your into the lockwork to smooth out the trigger you can also give the lockwork a good tuning and be set to go shooting.
If you don't like working on your guns the PC model will likely be the best choice. However sooner or later you'll find that you have problems with misfires. At that point you'll have to find a gunsmith who can tune the lockwork properly and also fit the strain screw so that the mainspring is properly tensioned with the strain screw fully tightened.
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05-21-2012, 05:29 AM
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Go with the 625JM for several reasons...
According to the S&W website the PC 625 is actually 2oz heavier than the JM version. The full lug is the best option to put the weight forward assisting with muzzle rise, not just extra weight.
Cylinder chamfering is a cheap procedure and if this is going to be a dedicated competition gun, you are going to want a more aggressive chamfer than the PC is going to do.
The cylinder of the PC version is "short", where as the JM has the normal length 625 cylinder. I'm told this is important if you ever decide to rebarrel it.
You are definitely going to want a kydex holster. They are cheaper, faster, and much easier to maintain. The full lug profile is the most popular and will be easier to find.
For the $100 dollars you save on the price tag by going with the JM you can get a good holster and moon clip holders.
And the most compelling reason....Jerry Miculek built this revolver to his specs and competes with it at the highest levels of IDPA competition. His USPSA gun is nearly identical, but with a 5" barrel.
In full disclosure, when I bought my 625JM brand new, it had 3 defects from the factory that it had to go back for. A very off center gold bead front sight, a very crooked rear sight, and a bent extractor rod. S&W took care of everything at no cost to me, but make sure you take a good look at whatever you end up purchasing. The 625 is an awesome model and ESR is a great category to shoot in IDPA!
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02-25-2018, 07:12 PM
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I want my last smith revolver to be a 625 and I wantt to really get into IDPA. Our local club has montly matches now and I have had fun with at a 2 1/2 686. Got my range set up. But want the next step to a 45 acp. Got a couple 1917 so use to moon slips.
You guys input did it ordering a 625 JB monday and will get kydex holster and loader carrier. Thanks for the in put. I respect the forum views much more than the basic internet trash
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02-25-2018, 08:19 PM
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I started shooting a 625 JM for Steel Challenge competition in 2012. I realized I needed more that six shots. For IDPA I think it would be a great gun to use.
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02-25-2018, 08:26 PM
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Simple....don't miss with your first five shots and then you have one extra for later!
Randy
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02-25-2018, 10:15 PM
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I shoot IDPA with a 625JM and Love it. Also echo what Scooter123 posted. Either will do you well, just determine which of the minor variances between the 2 you prefer and go that route.
Good luck
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02-25-2018, 11:19 PM
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Or a good used 625-3 works..at least for me it does.
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02-26-2018, 12:30 PM
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It was funny to come across this necro-thread and find my response from 2012. I guess I walk the walk as well as talk the talk because I purchased this about two months after I posted...
I bought it used. It was basically stock, but has undergone quite a few changes and about 10K rounds since then.
Complete action job with an Apex hammer and DAO conversion. Charge holes chamfered (the factory job barely breaks the sharp edge). HiViz front FO sight and rear Bowen rough country sights. Trigger stop installed and adjusted (I know it comes with one but it had been shortened and turned all the way in). S&W X-frame yellow Emerg. Kit grips. Also have had timing adjusted and new cylinder stop and spring installed. It is my primary IDPA gun.
I hope that the OP has had as much enjoyment from his choice as I've had from mine.
Adios,
Pizza Bob
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02-26-2018, 01:08 PM
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For practical action shooting accuracy and operation I am not sure there would be 3 cents worth of difference. I would go with the JM 4" on general principles if you can get one and if you can afford it, but I wouldn't get anal about it.
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Tags
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1911, bullseye, extractor, gunsmith, idpa, ipsc, kydex, model 625, overtravel, performance center, serrations, smith & wesson, smith and wesson |
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