I just had a new MOJO PPC revolver built and I wanted to get some tips on cleaning the lead out of the barrel. I've been shooting PPC for about 4 years, but never really heard the best or correct way to clean the barrel and not destroy it. I use a Lewis Lead Remover for the crown. Chamber brushes for the cylinder and brass brushes for the barrel. I will wrap a brass brush in Hoppies and run it down the barrel and let soak for about 15 mins. Then scrub with a brass bore brush then run patches down the barrel until they come out clean. My questions are: are they brass brushes too abrasive? Is Hoppies too strong hoe the barrel? How often do you clean your guns?

If you use the google search option on the top header and search for "chore boy" you'll find quite a few references to de-leading barrels.

Here's one I clipped and saved:
"And here's a lead removal tool if you don't want to invest a lot of money--------------and don't want to do very much work.

1. Get a box of Chore Boy copper scouring pads----$1.50 maybe. That will make for a lifetime supply for you, your children, their children and their childrens' childrens' children.

2. Do not get any sort of lead removal solvent whatsoever. If you already have some, throw it away.

3. Dry the bore----make that DRY THE BORE!!

4. Get a worn out, good for nothing brass/bronze/whatever cleaning brush--------------a brand new one will work fine, but it will pretty much be good for nothing else after this exercise.

5.Open the box of scouring pads. Remove one---only. Find the little "knot" where the copper has been fused together----so the pad stays a pad. Snip it off with something other than your wife's best sewing shears----if you value your life! Unroll the pad. You are now staring at a tube made of copper cloth. Slit the tube with whatever you used to cut the little knot off. Now you're staring at a sheet of copper cloth. As an aside, your wife's best sewing shears will work fine for all this cutting----and the cutting to come. It won't hurt them a bit. And you'll be alright so long as she doesn't see you using them.

6. Here's where things get as complicated as they're going to get. Using the worn out bronze brush as a measuring device, cut a full length strip of copper cloth that's about half again as wide as the brush is long. Cut that strip in half. Take one of the halves and wrap it (snugly) around the worn out bronze brush (with a more or less even overhang of copper cloth at each end of the brush)----and twist the ends of the copper cloth (closed) around either end of the brush. Install the copper clad brush on a cleaning rod. Put the brush into the DRY bore. If it goes in easy, you don't have enough copper cloth wrapped around it. If you have to beat it into the bore with a hammer, you have too much copper cloth wrapped around it. Adjust accordingly.

7. Proceed to push/pull the brush through the bore-----avoid push/pulling the brush all the way out of the bore at either end.

If you have a proper fit or one that's actually a little too tight, ALL the lead will be gone in very short order----six to eight passes. If the bore was really loaded up, you will end up with two very satisfying piles of powdered lead on the table at each end of the barrel. The bore will be absolutely spotless----the cleanest one you've ever seen!!

It takes a whole lot less time to do all of this than you've spent reading what and how to do it."

I use 0000 bronze wool myself, and follow up with some Butch's bore polish on these: WEAPONS CARE SYSTEM PELLETS - Brownells

Works well, and won't harm your barrels. Of course, the ultimate answer to barrel leading is just don't have it in the first place. Size the bullet to the barrel and cylinder throats properly, have the correct hardness for the pressures you're loads are at, and leading will be minimal or virtually non-existent.

ETA Just to better answer your questions, no, brass brushes and Hoppes are not going to damage your barrel. Running a cleaning rod back and forth on the crown can, so a guide is useful, but as far as the barrel itself, consider how many thousands of jacketed rounds with the attendant high pressures and temperatures it would take to wear out a barrel.

__________________
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

I'm fond of the Outer's Foul-Out device. Hook it up to my gun and wait...

I let my cylinders and barreled frames soak in Hoppes for a couple days. It eats the lead off with very little effort from me, while not harming the finish!

Lewis Lead remover

+1: Lewis Lead remover

Do they still make the Lewis Lead remover? I've had mine for about 30 years. Still the best.

Kleiss, they are available from Brownells and Missouri Bullet.

Never heard of the Outers Foul Out. I may have to get one. Do they work really well? Have you had any issues with it? Is it pretty easy to operate?

Plus three on this. I believe Hoppes makes a version of the Lewis Lead Remover..Hth...c good

I did done checking and it looks like they are discontinuing the Outers Foul Out. I did see how to make several home made one on the web though.

I really like my Outer's Foul Out. Bought it over a dozen years ago and used it many, many times with excellent results. The hardest part is finding a spot to stand a pistol upright while the solution rest in the bore. Sometimes when a bore was really fouled I'd have to turn it off and dump the solution after a few hours, then refill and do it again. Satisfying to watch the solution pour out with chunks of lead in it and then wipe the remaining lead off the rod.
I have bought many a used gun and negotiated a better price after pointing out the bore, only to take it home and clean it up with the Foul Out. I hate that they are discontinuing the product as it really is a better mousetrap.
It is a bunch less trouble than a Lewis Lead remover and MUCH more thorough.

Many years ago (Late 1940'-to mid 50's) when my Dad shot on the Sheriff's Office Pistol team they would cork one end of the barrel of a badly leaded barrel and pour about a table spoon of Hg into to the barrel cork the other end and then slosh it back and forth for about 5 minutes, then pouring the Hg back into the original container.

Then they would run a brush with Hoppe's#9, followed by wet patches and then lastly with a dry patch. The barrel would be stunningly clean of all lead and anything else.

Cannot do this anymore however.....Pb and Hg form a very strong chemical bond....

Randy

I clean my PPC gun after 150 round match.

I clean my service gun after a 50 round match.

Revolvers are a pain to clean compared to my PPC and Service Auto.

if using reloads, might have to play to find the right combo that does not lead as much. I find PD slugs will not lead as bad a Zero slugs using swaged 148s with the same powder (either Bullseye or N320)

First thing I do
Lewis Lead remover dry on the forcing cone
a few passes of dry bronze bore brush dry
a few passes Lewis Lead remover dry
solvent on the barrel, let soak for a few minutes
a few passes bronze bore brush
dry patch
then kroil patches and inspect
if I like, I leave the kroil and prior to shooting/match....I will run a dry patch

if still stubborn and has lead
breakout the JB Bore compound which can be purchased through Brownells

I used Kroil as my barrel cleaning lube

I find cleaning the cylinders much more a pain than the barrel. I used chamber brushes, Lewis Lead remover and this is the revolver cleaning process that I hate. I wish I would have bought that Outers Foul Out years ago, but I did not shoot as much revolver as I do today.

Have to go clean my 686 and 586, and will have to clean my PPC and 686 (again) after Wednesday! URGHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!

They still make Lewis Lead Remover.

Get one.

Brownells.

I have a Lewis lead remover and use it. I'm trying to find ways to clean the bore, but do less wear on it. I am one of the obsessive compulsive type that often over clean a bore.