M&P 15-22 Repair thread for FTE.

[allglock]

This is only for failure to eject problems.
Heres how I made mine 100% reliable in about 2 minutes. It was 0% reliable before this. (I couldnt even shoot 3 rounds without a failure):
I used needle nose pliers and GENTLY moved the EJECTOR inward about 1/32-1/16 of an inch.(Its even easier if you remove the upper receiver).
OK. In the picture below, my ejector was more towards the straight orange line. It needed to be moved inward approx. 1/16 of an inch, in the position it is in now. Note the positon it is in relation to the breachface. I have the ejector hook circled in orange. Hope this helps!

[Lynn]

Other than, possible extractor tweaks, this looks promising.

Has anyone here, tweaked the ejector, and actually had success though? If so then, exactly, how did you do it? Like, where did you place the pliers, to bend it in, toward the bolt cartridge recess?

[chuck s]

It'll be easier to see and work on if you remove the upper receiver from the rifle.

Mine is working fine. From a visual inspection the ejector needs to project far enough to strike the case rim, but not so far as for the let to rub on the rim during rearward action.

-- Chuck

[Lynn]

The 22 cartridge case, is held in place on the bolt face by the extractor, and as the bolt moves back either the spent case (or unfired cartridge) moves back with it. The cartridge case rim, basically backs into the ejector bar, and the spent case or unfired cartridge is flipped off the bolt face and out the ejector port.

So you have to be careful exactly how you adjust that ejector bar.

To get an idea how the extractor and ejector works in our rifle, I put a cartridge on the bolt face, making sure it was firmly held in place by the extractor, in the cartridge case recess before the firing pin, there on the bolt.

Then I carefully and slowly, cycled forward the bolt holding the cartridge, until the cartridge was inserted into the chamber.

Next I slowly backed the bolt out, in the same slow careful manner, being careful to observe how the cartridge rim backed into the ejector bar. If you do this you will see how it all works.

Of course now, separating the upper from the lower completely, is both the easiest and safest thing to do first. I also removed the return spring from the bolt carrier group assembly, so I would not risk having the bolt accidentally thrown forward by the spring.

[Lynn]

here is another great thread about fixing FTE problems. It even has a How-To video.

M&P 15-22 (problems and fixes)

[Alien VFR]

Using the above photo as a reference, I used a flathead screwdriver. i placed it above the ejector and turned it to push against the ejector and the inside of the receiver. I used enough pressure to move the ejector ever so slightly. I did this a couple times as I reinstalled the bolt to check for placement. Since I've made this adjustment, initially thanks to Allglock for posting, my gun has performed great. It had fte's almost every round prior to adjustment.

[CORPORAL PUNISHMENT]

Thanks, but i'm gonna let smith fix it. I'm pretty sure they do something to the extractor and the feed ramp also. Wondering though if some thing can be done to the magazines for failure to feed also.

[gjminet77]

I had same issues with my new 15-22. I did the Ejector fix shown on youtube and tuned it some at the range. Although it was much, much better it still had at least a 5% problem.

So I called S&W and asked what other parts were involved and they convinced me that there is a lot more parts involved and that I should send it in.

I really like the gun a lot and want it to work 100% of the time.