I PICKED IT UP ON FRIDAY, SHOT SUNDAY AND TODAY WITH CCI STANDARD AND MINI MAGS NO PROBLEMS. DTX BLUE SPRINGS AND NJ COMPL. WIHT AN EOTECH 512. ( LOVE THE EOTECH ) I CLEANED HER BEFORE I SHOT IT AND WHEN I WAS DONE SHOOTING THE BEST THAT I KNOW HOW TO. I BUT I'AM NOT SURE HOW, WHEN AND WHAT I SHOULD CLEAN. IF ANY ONE KNOWS OF A VIDEO OR BOOK THAT WOULD HELP PLEASE LET ME KNOW. NOT MUCH INFO IN THE BOOKLET THAT CAME WITH IT. THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.

eastcoast, Check out this 3 video series on youtube. I thought it was great for showing me how to clean the gun, minus pulling apart the bolt assembly. Check it out....YouTube - Cleaning the AR-15 (1/3)

THANKS Dstar THAT HELPED ALOT.

No problem, enjoy!!

I was amazed at how clean the rifle was after shooting hundreds of rounds. I guess it is just that I am used to the gas guns.

When I cleaned mine the first time, I couldn't believe how nicely the bolt cleaned up. Looked brand new. Love this rifle.

The AR cleaning instructions generally apply, but there are exceptions with regard to the 15-22. For example, the S&W manual shows the safety set prior to separating the upper and lower and gives a warning not to dry fire. Dry firing the center fire AR-15 is a different story and is OK. The charging handle and bolt of the 15-22 are also removed before pulling the front pin and completely separating upper and lower. Bottom line, use the disassembly/assembly instructions in the 15-22 manual, but follow the actual cleaning steps in the video.

Glad to see another NJ resident here..! Where are you located? Which range do you go to?

I used to shoot at Ray's, but go up to Bullet Hole in Belleville now..

The M16 should be cocked and the safety ON before separating the receivers -- and when reassembling them. The M&P15 is no different.

The bolt carrier group can come out before or after separating the receivers, but since it tends to fall out (!) when they're separated it's probably best to just pull it as you crack the receivers open.

The only "tools" you need for cleaning the rifle are a bore snake, shop rags, and a toothbrush. The same CLP you use for the 5.56mm version works just as well here. No "solvents" and certainly no grease needed.

-- Chuck

I like the Clp, but one question. Do you whip the clp completely off or do you leave a light coating??

.22LR rifles require little lubrication. I put a "generous" coat of CLP on the bolt carrier rails, and a light coat on the other parts of the bolt group. Generous meaning I can smear it around with my finger.

The rest of the rifle requires no lubrication other than a drop or two on each end of the trigger and hammer (inside the receiver) and the sear contact areas. Avoid removing the hammer and trigger parts from the frame unless it's absolutely filthy down there. Removing these parts accelerates receiver wear.

CLP tends to flush dirt out of moving part areas, hence the generous coat on the bolt carrier rails.

This rifle is going to require a little experimentation to determine the optimum lube, but there are few moving parts.

-- Chuck

As far as cleaning, and before I shot the rifle the first time, I used a nylon brush and CLP, then Butches Bore Shine and patches, then Militec1 patches, then clean patches. I made sure to get the chamber and bore clean for the first session. The chamber and bore was pretty dirty from the factory.

After the first session, I used butches and patches again to gauge bore smoothness from fouling. The patches came out very clean. I think the barrels are very smooth when they come from the factory.

From now on I am going to use a foaming bore cleaner, which gets the carbon and fouling out of the flash hider as well. Then clean patches, then militec1. I am not seeing a reason to brush the bore very often.

This means more shooting, and less cleaning. Woo Hoo!

I don't clean my rifle as much as I probably should, but there's one area I get spic and span -- bolt. In particular the two arms the bolt rides in get GRIT quick. When dirty, it feels like 80 grit sandpaper when I pull on the charging handle. I start with Hoppes to loosen things up and compress the spring and wipe down on either side of the rails. Then I blast it with Gun Scubber and crud just flows out while compressing the spring in and out. Repeat as needed. Then just a very light mist of Rem Oil With Teflon. (I think they have banned the stuff since I bought my last can years ago cuz I never see it any more.) When done, the bolt rides real smooth and quick. I think maybe that has helped to keep my rifle cycling as well as it has.

The only place I use lubrication is on the rails and a just a small amount on the recoil spring guide. Other then that there is no metal on metal contact in the rifle. I haven't lubricated the trigger group yet. I am waiting for surfaces to finish cleaning them selves up. My trigger was god awful when I got it but since it has really smoothed out with use. Another 1000 rounds or so, I'll drop springs in and put a drop of oil on the sear and the trigger should be pretty good.

I glug some CLP down the barrel, pull the bore snake through and it's done.. I take the bolt out and take it off the rails and soak the face with CLP for a few mins then wipe off the dirt and clean the grooves the bolt rides on, I put a few drops of CLP on the top and bottom of the rails then reassemble. Every once in a while I take my trigger parts out and clean them and reapply white Lithium grease to the sear face and the pins.

Every couple thousand rounds or so I blast some Gun Scrubber on the trigger group. There's really nothing burnt on, so it flushes everything out and cleans up like new in just a second. Then a quick mist of the Rem. Yeah... okay.... I'm lazy...

The Gun Scrubber doesn't have any negative impact on the "plastic" receiver? I didn't want to take the chance.

Wd-40 works great in these little guns.. just hose them down and blow them out and add your oil and your done... I really don't know why people buy exspensive cleaners to do the same job that wd-40 does.. its a cleaner.. its cheap and most everyone has it laying around anyway... good luck with your task.. I'm sure 10 people will chimb in and tell you how they make clp for a reason and they r right... money

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

Granted I do use bore cleaner on the bolt face and breech and I even use a high quality oil (clp) when I'm done cleaning but I don't waist it on cleaning debris out of the lower.. I hope this helps

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

None at all.

You guys should try this CLP called SUPER SLICK SLICK STUFF. Its about 10$ a can but works great at blasting anything from residue to sand and any kind of grime. Its safe for composite material, I use that on every gun I have then a little Hoppes for the bore. Ace hardware has it. There is also this other stuff called SAFARI CHARLIES(made by same comp.) but looking at the contents its exactly the same, except for that its $16.Seriously, everyone should try this stuff at least once. Do yourself, no, your guns a favor.

Cleaner

Lubricant

Protectant

wd40 is cheaper for hosing out the lower is all im saying

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07/SOT2
NRA Instructor

I use wal-mart brand blue can (tech 2000) brake cleaner with no adverse effects at all. I was a little nervous at first but after cleaning it 10 times now with it I feel safe using it. On other polymer guns in the past gun scrubber would eat the plastic so I switched to brake cleaner. I use the wal-mart stuff on my glocks also with no issues. $2.95 a can vs. $12.99 for gun scrubber that melts plastic from my experience.

not sure what the 6 month bump was for but i'd highly recommend M-Pro 7 LPX for around $7-8. supposedly a revolution to "CLP". more importantly though you can leave it on your hands without any adverse effects, and it has a nice green color and doesn't smell too bad.

Hey Chuck.... I'm in Avon and have had this rifle since early January. I've only been able to go shooting twice with it as no ammo seems to be available.. I've taken it to B&T in Lorain where i purchased it. I've got some accessories for it and really like it. I'm more of a western style rifle guy(lever action) and only do .22 so I'm really hurting with this shortage of ammo.

And above all else be very carefull with the ejector... some people have damaged it cleaning their rifle... might wanna put a plastic piece of straw over it to protect it...

That's the ejector, not the extractor. The extractor is integral to the bolt and is not a problem.

Oop's you right... been a long day... Thanks Majorlk...

This is so the hammer doesn't hit the polymer lower. What I do is put it on safe, pull the upper off, than put it on fire, hold the hammer and pull the trigger and let up the hammer slowly. That way if I'm taking off the grip I don't have to worry about the safety moving and accidentally dry firing. YMMV, but I don't like that possibility.

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-Dik

Dry firing the 15-22 has zero impact on the rifle. The problem occurs in firearms where the firing pin is long enough to hit the bolt face. In the 15-22, the firing pin is several thousandths too short to reach the bolt face.

Letting the hammer hit the lower with the upper off is a totally different matter.